Shaker sub swap?

[emericA243]

So i purchased a 16 eb pp and it has shaker sound system. However there is no SUB in the trunk and this audio has virtually no bass for some reason, even with it cranked up.

Is there a way to just buy the shaker sub or an sub and perform a plug and play addition?

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[mumbles]

People have mentioned seeing the OEM subs on ebay. If your car did not come with a factory sub, then there is no wiring/signal being sent to the trunk, but once you get a sub off ebay, follow the instructions in this post from the sticky;

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2171978&postcount=631

 

[emericA243]

Ty sir

 

[chipmaker]

Dont waste your money, there's a reason those speakers are on ebay. Get a Lc2I, run signal from rear deck speakers to Lc2i, then to aftermarket amp, then to aftermarket sub of your choice. Shaker sub was the biggest and only disappointment of my Mustang.

 

[emericA243]

Audio \ subs \ amps is my short coming. I was hoping for an easy plug and play solution just to get a little bass as its totally non present right now. I have the shaker system, jsut no physical sub. Would there be any alternative plug and play solutions?

 

[Chef jpd]

There is no plug and play solution for this, but the easiest route would be to get a powered standalone sub.
it is still going to have to be wired and powered, so maybe a stereo shop is in your future.

maybe something like this:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-hideaway-8-subwoofer-with-enclosure-and-integrated-150w-amplifier-black/3526208.p?skuId=3526208

 

[chipmaker]

What he ^ said. Bumpin ain't easy!

 

[tal]

Shaker sub

I've now posted this a few times...PLEASE use the search function next time...

This is from another thread I posted to:

I'll try to best explain how I did this. I'm a novice at this stuff and had the Pro shop do most of the install.

You will need to purchase these parts. There are several. Purchased at our vendor here on the board.

[ 6 ] BODY HARDWARE / INSTRUMENT PANEL / SOUND SYSTEM / Woofer
Part Number: FR3Z18808A
woofer SPEAKERS-COUPE, w/branded audio
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$281.06 $0.00 $216.41

[ 7 ] BODY HARDWARE / INSTRUMENT PANEL / SOUND SYSTEM / Woofer bracket
Part Number: FR3Z18807A
5 bracket bolts
1 U-Nut (speed nut)
woofer bracket SPEAKERS-COUPE
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$103.47 $0.00 $79.67

[ 8 ] BODY HARDWARE / INSTRUMENT PANEL / SOUND SYSTEM / Woofer cover
Part Number: FR3Z18B947A
3 T-20 Torx screws
2 13mm bolts
1 T-40 Tork screw
woofer cover SPEAKERS-COUPE
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$30.04 $0.00 $23.13

White Bear Lake Ford
Talked to Mike R.
651-484-8888
$318.21
$338.29 total + shipping
approx $20 in screws
approx $15 shipping
Total= 353.29

You will also need the replace the stock subwoofer amp. Use the ALPINE KTP-190U. About $100. It is nearly identical to the stock amp. It will bolt in place of the stock amp. You will need to remove the subwoofer driver to install the wiring. Since the Alpine amp only has 2 wire for the subwoofer you will need to wire the subwoofer in series (?), I think that's the terminology used. The subwoofer needs 4 wires connecting to it and the Alpine amp only has 2 wires for connection.

The Alpine amp was connected to the rear speakers for the signal and the power wire just simply went to the open subwoofer fuse in the passenger kick-panel. Cross-over the amp at 100Hz

The result is more bass mainly at high volume. This will not blow out the windows or rock the boat. It is intended to give you more bass at higher volume is the best way I can describe it.

I also used the instructions from the JL Audio site for their own subwoofer f or this model car. They are pretty good.

I think total cost was about $500-$600 with the Pro install. I know people with just assume just go with the JL Audio setup (and I agree it's a much better power setup) but when you talk about the outlay in cash this is the most feasible now. The JL Audio setup in $800 for the enclosure and then $300 for the amp and then $200-$400 for install? You are close to $1500 at this point.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I've now posted this a few times...PLEASE use the search function next time...

This is from another thread I posted to:

I'll try to best explain how I did this. I'm a novice at this stuff and had the Pro shop do most of the install.

You will need to purchase these parts..

While your post is helpful with procuring the Shaker sub, it’s mounting parts and swapping out the factory sub amp - it’s still lacking the HOW and the WIRING needed to put a sub into the trunk of a NON-12spkr vehicle that never had the sub OR wiring from the factory as mentioned by others - and is where the OP needs help.

Both the 9spkr and 12spkr sound systems in all 2015-2017’s with the larger 8” SYNC 3 head unit were called “Shaker”. However, the 12spkr Shaker system is the only system that came with the proper signal, wiring and sub components in the trunk.

The 9spkr S550’s never had the sub in the trunk, they also never had the signal OR the wiring harness to the trunk. So it’s more involved than just buying the Shaker sub, mounting kit and better amp IF the OP wanted to install the factory Shaker sub (or aftermarket sub in place of a Shaker sub).

As others have mentioned above, the OP would need to run the signal and wiring to the trunk (or from within the trunk) to even power up a sub - be it a factory Shaker OR aftermarket.

Mumbles provided a good thread IF the OP wants to have OEM look with a Shaker sub.

Chef jpd provided an excellent response if the OP wants to go aftermarket.

 

[tal]

While your post is helpful with procuring the Shaker sub, it’s mounting parts and swapping out the factory sub amp - it’s still lacking the HOW and the WIRING needed to put a sub into the trunk of a NON-12spkr vehicle that never had the sub OR wiring from the factory as mentioned by others - and is where the OP needs help.

Both the 9spkr and 12spkr sound systems in all 2015-2017’s with the larger 8” SYNC 3 head unit were called “Shaker”. However, the 12spkr Shaker system is the only system that came with the proper signal, wiring and sub components in the trunk.

The 9spkr S550’s never had the sub in the trunk, they also never had the signal OR the wiring harness to the trunk. So it’s more involved than just buying the Shaker sub, mounting kit and better amp IF the OP wanted to install the factory Shaker sub (or aftermarket sub in place of a Shaker sub).

As others have mentioned above, the OP would need to run the signal and wiring to the trunk (or from within the trunk) to even power up a sub - be it a factory Shaker OR aftermarket.

Mumbles provided a good thread IF the OP wants to have OEM look with a Shaker sub.

Cher jpd provided an excellent response if the OP wants to go aftermarket.

You are correct...my apologies :cheers:

However, with this kit I installed, I just simply used the unused Shaker subwoofer power fuse near the passenger kick-panel. No need to wire to the battery under the hood because of the efficient D-class amp.

Speaker-level inputs are used and the signal can be simply tapped from the rear speakers.

Hopefully this may help someone if they wish to go in this direction. If the OP has questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

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