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Shaker Pro Sub Replacement

Jobodizo

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Joined
May 16, 2016
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Location
Kentucky
Vehicle(s)
2015 DIB GT
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After 8 years of owning the ’15, I finally decided to do something to upgrade my 401a Shaker Pro system.

There are a few posts on the forum about doing a driver-only swap with the stock sub. The Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 plus some polyfill made a nice difference and satiated my need for an upgrade…for about 4 months, lol. The bass was definitely tighter with better definition and I could tell the difference, but it was running off of the factory amp and it was still only an 8” sub. Plus, the factory eq feeding the sub paired with the box volume made it oddly boomy at certain frequencies.

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I had the opportunity to buy a RF P1000X5 and 1F cap for next to nothing, so I decided I would go ahead and replace the factory sub completely and use the RF amp to power whatever I put in (plus room to expand in the future).

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I bought a used factory sub amp off eBay and de-pinned the input connector so that I could make connections to the stock sub harness without cutting into the wires.

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I connected a RCA to pigtail connection to the +/- low level signals and used a PAC TR-4 and the stock constant 12V, ground, and 6V signal to send a clean 12V remote turn on to the amp from the factory harness. I also ran a PLC2 to the steering column and made a pinch bracket to keep from having to drill into the factory bracket. While I had the trim off, I went ahead and ran 2 RCA, 4 sets of speaker wire, and a remote wire…just in case.

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Finally, because I already had a BlockIt and WeatherTech mat with cutouts for the factory sub (not to mention the holes in the carpet), I decided to grab a box from Audio Designs and Custom Graphics because it fit in the same space as stock. If anybody is on the fence, the box construction is fantastic and very robust. My only complaint is I could've used about 6" more speaker wire, so I had to solder/heat shrink the wires for them to reach the amp mounted on the passenger side seat back. I mounted the box using the same M8x1.25 threaded holes that the stock box used and added a RF P3SD2-12 with some polyfill.

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Sounds fantastic, and it might actually keep me from replacing the rest of the speakers for the time being…maybe.
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