Service AdvanceTrac light, No power steering, no adaptive cruise control after laps on track

[WItoTX]

My guess is something power steering or power steering wiring related. I think when we usually have issues with things like wheel speed sensors or hubs, I don’t think it takes out the power steering itself… although maybe if would reset the PS mode to default if you have it on comfort or sport or something. Thats not losing the power steering tho.

I have been chasing a electrical problem for 7 months now. Very similar issues as OP. I've swapped a new lead battery in for the lithium battery I've had, and swapped the factory suspension controller back in. But I have intermittent power steering issues, I think all stemming from battery or suspension controller issue.

At this point, I'm thinking it's a result of the lithium battery. But as soon as I get my DSC back, will chase it down.

OP, if someone hasn't suggested it, check your battery.

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[HourlyB]

Theres a certain percentage range that the BCM & ABS modules communicate to the PCM, around 4%, so your tire sizes + gear ratio must fall within 4% of stock sizes ie: "AS BUILT". It also looks at steering angle vs tire rotation & other things. It may or may not show up during normal driving. So you need your tuner to make the required changes.

Or my dumbass could be completely wrong. Haha.

I believe Lund already factored in for the 3.63 gearing and 285/35R19 size. (At the very least, they asked for it) Also, if it were this issue, I would think that the problem would've manifested earlier.

I have been chasing a electrical problem for 7 months now. Very similar issues as OP. I've swapped a new lead battery in for the lithium battery I've had, and swapped the factory suspension controller back in. But I have intermittent power steering issues, I think all stemming from battery or suspension controller issue.

At this point, I'm thinking it's a result of the lithium battery. But as soon as I get my DSC back, will chase it down.

OP, if someone hasn't suggested it, check your battery.

Voltage is good (12.4V), but it definitely has been worked hard for 2 years, keeping a camera running most of the time. Sometimes in winter, the car is left in low-charge mode, where the takes the car about 30 seconds for the MM stuff to start up, but the it never had a issue actually starting. 1.5 seconds turning over versus 1 second.

When I did airsoft, a bad Lithium was easy to spot (puffed) but given the plastic casing, what would I ask to be tested for on a Lithium to identify that it's failing?

EDIT; Actually, the voltage seems to be fluctuating a lot. It goes from 13.7, down to 13 and then back up to 13.6 about 30 seconds later.

That does not seem normal.

 

[NightmareMoon]

fluctuation in battery voltage is as designed. The BCM only charges the battery when its needed so it will fluctuate in that range. Thats normal.

idk how to spot a bad battery, but with normal batteries they seem to fail pretty quickly once they start to go. I’m on a lithium batrery too (Braille G20), but its been flawless so far so idk. Usually I’d expect to see issues with starting since thats the biggest demand, but your voltage seems normal too so idk.

 

[WItoTX]

I believe Lund already factored in for the 3.63 gearing and 285/35R19 size. (At the very least, Also, if it were this issue, I would think that the problem would've manifested earlier.

Voltage is good (12.4V), but it definitely has been worked hard for 2 years, keeping a camera running most of the time. Sometimes in winter, the car is left in low-charge mode, where the takes the car about 30 seconds for the MM stuff to start up, but the it never had a issue actually starting. 1.5 seconds turning over versus 1 second.

When I did airsoft, a bad Lithium was easy to spot (puffed) but given the plastic casing, what would I ask to be tested for on a Lithium to identify that it's failing?

EDIT; Actually, the voltage seems to be fluctuating a lot. It goes from 13.7, down to 13 and then back up to 13.6 about 30 seconds later.

That does not seem normal.

The voltage fluctuating isn't a big deal.

Do you have mag ride? If so, it's my working theory that MR, PS, ABS, TC, all suck a ton of juice. If the battery isn't 100%, electric issues will ensue.

But I'd say throw a good lead battery in and give it a test. It goes away, you know the problem.

I just hate throwing money at stuff like this.

 

[HourlyB]

Further information; The voltage only dips when I'm taking a slow, hard turn, seems like the PS is sapping a lot of power? Or the battery isn't providing enough power under stress, hence it dying when on a track.

fluctuation in battery voltage is as designed. The BCM only charges the battery when its needed so it will fluctuate in that range. Thats normal.

idk how to spot a bad battery, but with normal batteries they seem to fail pretty quickly once they start to go. I’m on a lithium batrery too (Braille G20), but its been flawless so far so idk. Usually I’d expect to see issues with starting since thats the biggest demand, but your voltage seems normal too so idk.

Hmmmm, I'll visit a parts store to see if they have a test for batt health

The voltage fluctuating isn't a big deal.

Do you have mag ride? If so, it's my working theory that MR, PS, ABS, TC, all suck a ton of juice. If the battery isn't 100%, electric issues will ensue.

But I'd say throw a good lead battery in and give it a test. It goes away, you know the problem.

I just hate throwing money at stuff like this.

I do not have magride, but that does make sense that when all the systems are firing, it just shuts down.

Unfortunately, right now the problem is still gone. Last time it did it was about 10 days ago. Maybe put a new battery in and then see if the voltage drops when taking a slow, hard corner.

 

[WItoTX]

Further information; The voltage only dips when I'm taking a slow, hard turn, seems like the PS is sapping a lot of power? Or the battery isn't providing enough power under stress, hence it dying when on a track.


Hmmmm, I'll visit a parts store to see if they have a test for batt health

I do not have magride, but that does make sense that when all the systems are firing, it just shuts down.

Unfortunately, right now the problem is still gone. Last time it did it was about 10 days ago. Maybe put a new battery in and then see if the voltage drops when taking a slow, hard corner.

This is sort of how mine is playing out. At first, it was once in a while. Then over time, it became more and more common to have the issue. I went from once at an autox event, to any time I engage ABS, or even just get too much high speed compression in the shocks.

To be totally honest, I am 50% sure it's a battery issue, and 50% not exactly sure what it is at all. Like others have said, some can run a LiPo battery fine, others have electrical issues. Good luck, and keep us updated.

 

[HourlyB]

This is sort of how mine is playing out. At first, it was once in a while. Then over time, it became more and more common to have the issue. I went from once at an autox event, to any time I engage ABS, or even just get too much high speed compression in the shocks.

To be totally honest, I am 50% sure it's a battery issue, and 50% not exactly sure what it is at all. Like others have said, some can run a LiPo battery fine, others have electrical issues. Good luck, and keep us updated.

Will do. (In further updates, I'm a moron. I do not have a LiPo battery, the D4700 is a AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat))

 

[WItoTX]

Will do. (In further updates, I'm a moron. I do not have a LiPo battery, the D4700 is a AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat))

I could only find cranking amps (760) for your battery, but that is smallish for these cars. The factory batteries themselves are small too (Mine was 470 CCA). IMO, these cars probably need to be closer to 600 CCA. I just threw in a 800 CCA battery (For a variety of reasons). I think these cars use way more power than we expect, and these smallish batteries are taxed way harder than we think. So if a cell in the battery fails, it's way harder for the battery to keep up.

Your car should generally show 13 or less volts 90% of the time you are driving. The car is measuring how many volts your alternator is putting out. So if the meter is indicating 13 or less volts, that means your battery is fully charged, and the alternator is not producing the full 14.4 volts.

If your car is showing above 13 volts, I would hazard a guess the car thinks the battery needs charging all the time. Which would lead me to believe the battery is failing. Take it to AutoZone and let them test it (I assume they can do AGM).

Keep us posted. Like I said, I am going through the same battle now.

 

[HourlyB]

I could only find cranking amps (760) for your battery, but that is smallish for these cars. The factory batteries themselves are small too (Mine was 470 CCA). IMO, these cars probably need to be closer to 600 CCA. I just threw in a 800 CCA battery (For a variety of reasons). I think these cars use way more power than we expect, and these smallish batteries are taxed way harder than we think. So if a cell in the battery fails, it's way harder for the battery to keep up.

Your car should generally show 13 or less volts 90% of the time you are driving. The car is measuring how many volts your alternator is putting out. So if the meter is indicating 13 or less volts, that means your battery is fully charged, and the alternator is not producing the full 14.4 volts.

If your car is showing above 13 volts, I would hazard a guess the car thinks the battery needs charging all the time. Which would lead me to believe the battery is failing. Take it to AutoZone and let them test it (I assume they can do AGM).

Keep us posted. Like I said, I am going through the same battle now.

Got the battery tested, and they said it was alright, 86% state of charge. Not bad given it was sitting in a parking lot for 11 hours with a camera running.

I think the only thing left to do is get the tune returned to stock.

 

[WItoTX]

Got the battery tested, and they said it was alright, 86% state of charge. Not bad given it was sitting in a parking lot for 11 hours with a camera running.

I think the only thing left to do is get the tune returned to stock.

Did you have the error code when you had it tested? I'd be more curious what the battery is doing when the error happens.

Losing 14% in 11 hours seems like a lot.

 

[WItoTX]

Here is a really simplified explanation of how much power runs through your power steering. Considering an engine might need 400 or more amps, ABS potentially 100 amps, I would argue you are at the north end of that battery. Especially if it's light on charge.

https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com...wer steering,fluctuate when assist was needed.

 

[HourlyB]

Did you have the error code when you had it tested? I'd be more curious what the battery is doing when the error happens.

Losing 14% in 11 hours seems like a lot.

I believe the code is stored, but not active/firing. Car was working fine, etc etc.

Here is a really simplified explanation of how much power runs through your power steering. Considering an engine might need 400 or more amps, ABS potentially 100 amps, I would argue you are at the north end of that battery. Especially if it's light on charge.

https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/electric-power-steering-diagnostics/#:~:text=Engineers knew electric power steering,fluctuate when assist was needed.

Hmmm, that might be it, unfortunately I'm not sure how much there is I can do. The D4700 is about as big as it gets for batteries that fit.

Also, I thought 400 amps was what it required for starting a coyote, not for keeping it running? (the alternator only makes ~200 amps iirc, and mine kept the engine running fine when the battery was disconnected)

 

[WItoTX]

I guess research how much amps various parts of your car pull at any given time. My theory is, under heavy load, 400 amps is the minimum the battery should have.

 

[HourlyB]

So, maybe I have a answer; Ford looked at the car sans tune, and didn't find any issues with the computer.

However, the did test the battery, and found that it's actual CCAs are around 344 CCAs. I'll test it again but I'm surprised it's gotten that bad, AGMs are supposed to have a longer lifespan than flooded.

I'll get it checked again, but as of right now, any suggestions for a battery? Requirements would be able to run a hardwired dashcam, some extra LED lights and the shaker sound system.

 

[HourlyB]

Issue hasn't come back, but given that I haven't actually done anything except remove a tune, but I don't think that was the solution. I want to do another track day, but I don't want another early end.
Does anyone know of any way to check my old forscan scans to try and check which sensors were throwing codes, or are they lost/that's not something Forscan is capable of doing?
I just don't want to buy a new battery and have it be the thrust washers or vice versa. Or would replacing the washers be a good idea anyway given the cars age and the track time it has seen?

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