Rust Proofing: Yay or Nay?

[GNS]

Given all of the rust-resistant materials used in new cars, its hard to believe that people even buy into the rust-proofing gimics. The couple of older cars I've been involved with that had Ziebart prep work have also had rust inside the wheel wells, or in other areas that water might sit but they didn't treat. So, those systems were far from perfect. Now that cars use galvanized, e-coated and preplate steel as well as aluminum panels extensively, there is little reason to need aftermarket rust proofing. Just make sure the drain holes stay clear and any chips in the paint are addresses...

Do the Ziebart techs spray inside the body panels?

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[EXP Jawa]

I have no idea. They may pull the body plugs and spray what they can hit, but I'd imagine access is somewhat limited. Both cars I've worked with that had it were from 30 years ago, so admittedly, the process has probably changed. My point was just that it wasn't that effective. One of them is a car that's never seen winter, so the fact that its rusting anyway doesn't leave a warm fuzzy feeling for me.

 

[DHG1078]

Given all of the rust-resistant materials used in new cars, its hard to believe that people even buy into the rust-proofing gimics. The couple of older cars I've been involved with that had Ziebart prep work have also had rust inside the wheel wells, or in other areas that water might sit but they didn't treat. So, those systems were far from perfect. Now that cars use galvanized, e-coated and preplate steel as well as aluminum panels extensively, there is little reason to need aftermarket rust proofing. Just make sure the drain holes stay clear and any chips in the paint are addresses...

I have no idea. They may pull the body plugs and spray what they can hit, but I'd imagine access is somewhat limited. Both cars I've worked with that had it were from 30 years ago, so admittedly, the process has probably changed. My point was just that it wasn't that effective. One of them is a car that's never seen winter, so the fact that its rusting anyway doesn't leave a warm fuzzy feeling for me.

Corrosion is an incredibly complex beast, and is very difficult to prevent. Some preventative measures actually increase the rate of corrosion elsewhere, even on something that normally wouldn't corrode. Dissimilar metals have differences in electric potential, and depending on the difference, will cause one of them to corrode over the other. Galvanized steel uses this principal by cladding the steel with zinc. The zinc becomes the sacrificial anode and corrodes (sometimes faster than normal) to protect the steel.

There are a countless number of ways to cause corrosion, and every preventative measure can cause even more in other areas. The more complex the system, the worse it gets.

Point being that just because the car still got rusty doesn't mean the coating didn't do its job, just that there are probably other things going on that caused it anyways.

 

[DHG1078]

hell, just having a scratch or nick in the surface can accelerate corrosion dramatically in some situations.

 

[EXP Jawa]

Corrosion is an incredibly complex beast, and is very difficult to prevent. Some preventative measures actually increase the rate of corrosion elsewhere, even on something that normally wouldn't corrode. Dissimilar metals have differences in electric potential, and depending on the difference, will cause one of them to corrode over the other. Galvanized steel uses this principal by cladding the steel with zinc. The zinc becomes the sacrificial anode and corrodes (sometimes faster than normal) to protect the steel.

There are a countless number of ways to cause corrosion, and every preventative measure can cause even more in other areas. The more complex the system, the worse it gets.

Point being that just because the car still got rusty doesn't mean the coating didn't do its job, just that there are probably other things going on that caused it anyways.

I agree with what you've said, but the bottom line is that these companies are marketing "systems" that claim to prevent corrosion. Customers pay with the expectation that rust will not occur - not eliminate just some rust - and to that end, the "system" hasn't performed to that expectation (regardless of how realistic that expectation is). My point right along has been that, for the reasons that you point out, that aftermarket rust-prevention does not tend to be a good buy.

 

[DHG1078]

I agree with what you've said, but the bottom line is that these companies are marketing "systems" that claim to prevent corrosion. Customers pay with the expectation that rust will not occur - not eliminate just some rust - and to that end, the "system" hasn't performed to that expectation (regardless of how realistic that expectation is). My point right along has been that, for the reasons that you point out, that aftermarket rust-prevention does not tend to be a good buy.

I agree, I wouldn't buy aftermarket rust prevention. Without doing any studies though, it is hard to say that the rust prevention coatings didn't prevent any rust. I still think it is snake oil though.

 

[EXP Jawa]

I agree, I wouldn't buy aftermarket rust prevention. Without doing any studies though, it is hard to say that the rust prevention coatings didn't prevent any rust. I still think it is snake oil though.

I'm sure that rust was less than it otherwise might have been, but its hard to say. Still, these are marketed as "rust prevention", not "rust reduction", which isn't true. I guess that ties to your snake oil comment...

 

[derieuz]

I am going to drive my Mustang all year, I currently live in michigan. I know how to properly handle the paint, glass, and wheels for my winter season, should I be worrying about undercoating or sealing the wheel wells? The roads here are horrendous, overloads of salt, snow, dirt, and tar from the garbage they use to poorly fill the potholes.

 

[danielc]

^^The very over-obsseive personality in me would say make sure and do your best to protect the paint with a sealant and wax prior to the winter and anything to the wheel wells. I don't know much about rust proofing myself, but for the detail products I would coat the car as best you can before the winter.

To the original question, I am way to obsessive and meticulous to have that on my car. I live in Ontario and will always park it for the winter and have a winter car. I even keep the second car for tight parking lots or downtown jobs I know I will add unnecessary wear to my Mustang. I work downtown Toronto and live 45mins north where parking is not an issue, so for my work that requires many different Toronto lots and parking garages I keep the second car around. I put the car on the hoist ever now and then to clean the undercarriage at home as well. I keep it very clean as much as my schedule will allow and keep the Chemical Guys products stocked up.

I am a meticulous detailer enthusiast, but wouldn't have it any other way. My neighbours think I am nuts!

 

[w3rkn]

Rust proofing accelerates rust..

 

[GNS]

I'm more worried about my car rusting than the under body. I'm not a car show guy or take to meets or anything so the only one looking underneath would be a mechanic. Being as our region has gone from using salt on ice to sand, that helps keep the rust down too. I'll have a look at it Houghton's to see what they charge, thanks for the advice! I'm glad im not alone in making this my daily driver even in the winter! Although my wife works from home, so I could use her SUV in a bad storm which is nice.

I personally believe Krown is the better of the two, the application is very thorough and the stuff is sprayed in all body panels through the holes that they drill. But I also understand if people are leery about drilling holes in the body of their brand new vehicle.

 

[valentinoamoro]

My 2 cents...
Modern cars get serious anti-rust treatments from the factory that many have mentioned here - this is not the 80's. Additionally, I have not researched aftermarket solutions, but would be leery of most. For example: I am hearing that some involve drilling holes in the car!!! (Krown??). That would kill any galvanization by exposing iron surfaces to salt water. Galvanization can seriously be compromised if the iron/alloy and zinc are exposed simultaneously by creating a galvanic cell. I'm an engineer (albeit a computer engineer) and my chemistry maybe off after all these years - long story short my reccos:

1) Wax the car frequently. Especially with a heavy duty wax like Collinite (in the winters esp). Mentioned by folks above.
2) If you drive on heavy salted roads (I had to drive behind a salt truck once in my M6 - the wheel wells were covered with salt), try to get to a Brown Bear or something to rinse off most of the crap ASAP. I realize this is hard if you live in a place thats always snowed in and salted.
3) Clear bra the frontal surfaces of the car, esp the panels that are not alumnium or composite. Chips can cause rust spots. Mentioned by folks above.

Other than that, drive the car and enjoy it. I never understood the point of the 'beater car', you're on this planet for a short time - any moment spent driving the beater car is a moment missed in the Mustang you are paying for and could enjoy (and yes, driving a RWD car in the snow can be fun if you're careful).

 

[methodfilter]

Loved the last line of that post, totally agree! Thankfully most places I drive around here switched from salt to sand a few years ago. Not to say most don't use salt for driveways and parking lots, but roads for the most part do not. And anytime I would drive somewhere that is salted, we would be in my wife's Explorer.

Definitely going to do the clear bra as everyone has suggested that and it just makes sense.

Thank you!

 

[GNS]

The holes are sprayed with more Krown and capped with plastic plugs, which are replaced every application, and these holes are limited to parts of the car that are not exposed to the outside elements. My current car has seen 4 Ontario winters with Krown, and the area around the plugs are rust free (as expected from their locations). I make it a point to check on every reapplication when the plugs are replaced.

I fully intend to drive my car all year round. I see several high HP RWD cars driven around in the winter (on winter tires) and they really don't have a problem getting around.

 

[Grimace427]

FWIW I drive my car all year round and have driven through 4 winters with plenty of snow and road salt. Rust proofing has not been necessary at all, nor has any special paint treatment. I put my car up on my lift at work every few weeks and the only part that has any kind of rust at all is the rear axle which is exposed steel.

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