Roush 700hp Supercharger

[Woopaloop]

I'm not worried about the OPG's or CS. It's the ones that hit the rev limiters, or have a two step that need the billet ones. If they do break. I've got a warranty.

The way I see it is if the companies offer a warranty thought that was a huge risk they would include those parts in the kit. I've seen those fail. But I've also see a lot of blocks fail (crankshaft snout snapped. Or rods giving out). When you build engines on boost things can happen.

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[Woopaloop]

I have only been to the 1/4 track with my 2018 Roush car once. Was 90F (32 C). Not sure what the DA was that day. But it was hot lol. Running 305 NT05R in the rear. All stock 401A car, full weight...including my fat butt in the driverseat. My best run was a 1.6 60', 7.0 1/8th and a 10.9 at 125MPH. I was having a tune issue...logs showed popcorn and speed limiter engaged at 125mph every run. It would kick in at approx the 1200' mark. I am super busy this summer so haven't had much time to test. That and the nearest track is a 5 hour drive for me. Once things settle down I will be doing some logging and going with a PBD tune. I feel mid 10's and low 130's is for sure obtainable. I did not purchased this car to run 9's. (although I'd like too lol). I bought this car on a whim...it was an executive Ford demo with the supercharger already installed. Had 2000 miles when I bought it. Paid less than the MSRP sticker price WITH the blower installed. All at 0% financing. I saw it, and l liked it, so I bought it. Sure its not the fastest mustang out there...but it will blow the factory Michelin's out at will...and runs like a swiss watch on long road trips.

I've been thinking about an alky/snow kit for this reason, heat soak is a big problem and these kits kill power when the IATs get a little hot.

 

[Toydoctor]

I've been thinking about an alky/snow kit for this reason, heat soak is a big problem and these kits kill power when the IATs get a little hot.

In the process of installing one now. Will post results once finished. So far 2018 roush
Phase 1 kit with mt-82. Ran three 11.1x at 125 to 126 mph at 2000+ DA. Hoping the meth kit might get me into the 10 sec and 128 mph range.

 

[Jmtoast]

In the process of installing one now. Will post results once finished. So far 2018 roush
Phase 1 kit with mt-82. Ran three 11.1x at 125 to 126 mph at 2000+ DA. Hoping the meth kit might get me into the 10 sec and 128 mph range.

Really good times for MT-82 and a Roush kit.

 

[Toydoctor]

Really good times for MT-82 and a Roush kit.

Thanks! I’ve done a lot while working around Roush’s tune. I built a chiller system for the Intercooler. Based upon what I’ve logged, roush must have several tables for timing and torque limiting based around the IAT2 sensor. I want HP tuners software to really see what’s going on. My goal is to keep that sensor cool which is not easy. I don’t recommend the chiller system. Too much hassle and problems to work out. I’m not really happy about having a water/meth system either. I would rather just have to fill the gas tank than checking and filling another tank.

Jealous of a 10.90 on an A10 car. Not many people have done this from what I’ve read.

 

[Jmtoast]

Thanks! I’ve done a lot while working around Roush’s tune. I built a chiller system for the Intercooler. Based upon what I’ve logged, roush must have several tables for timing and torque limiting based around the IAT2 sensor. I want HP tuners software to really see what’s going on. My goal is to keep that sensor cool which is not easy. I don’t recommend the chiller system. Too much hassle and problems to work out. I’m not really happy about having a water/meth system either. I would rather just have to fill the gas tank than checking and filling another tank.

Jealous of a 10.90 on an A10 car. Not many people have done this from what I’ve read.

A few guys gave posted 10’s on Roush tunes with the A10 with their better cals. Waiting to see times on the one they released in august.

I’m curious why you don’t recommend a chiller? Dodge actually uses a chiller on their demon from what I understand. A lot of Hellcat guys use them. There’s a chiller company overseas a lot of them use.

 

[Toydoctor]

A few guys gave posted 10’s on Roush tunes with the A10 with their better cals. Waiting to see times on the one they released in august.

I’m curious why you don’t recommend a chiller? Dodge actually uses a chiller on their demon from what I understand. A lot of Hellcat guys use them. There’s a chiller company overseas a lot of them use.

Yes the Dodge and GM guys are using them. I learned a lot by reading the hellcat forums actually. Not too sure why the chiller concept hasn’t caught on with the S550 crowd. Especially with all the PD blower options available.

The main reason I would not recommend a chiller kit is the amount of work involved to ensure no leaks in the system. You have to hack up a perfectly good a/c system and not many people are ready to do this. Furthermore 2018+ vehicles use R1234YF
refrigerant which really expensive stuff. I got around this problem by converting to R134A
which some hellcat guys are doing.
So far my car has been fine, BUT this was an experiment I don’t recommend the conversion.

If you would like to know more I made a post to document some of the problems I faced.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tage-1-roush-tune-inside.121111/#post-2528606

I didn’t get many responses other the refrigerant police stating the obvious: “Don’t go to a repair facility with the incorrect refrigerant in your car. It will damage their equipment.” Yes this is true but most shops have a refrigerant identifier built into their recovery machine to help protect their equipment. If I went to the dealer, my car would be completely recovered with the system in a vacuum state.

 

[Jmtoast]

Yes the Dodge and GM guys are using them. I learned a lot by reading the hellcat forums actually. Not too sure why the chiller concept hasn’t caught on with the S550 crowd. Especially with all the PD blower options available.

The main reason I would not recommend a chiller kit is the amount of work involved to ensure no leaks in the system. You have to hack up a perfectly good a/c system and not many people are ready to do this. Furthermore 2018+ vehicles use R1234YF
refrigerant which really expensive stuff. I got around this problem by converting to R134A
which some hellcat guys are doing.
So far my car has been fine, BUT this was an experiment I don’t recommend the conversion.

If you would like to know more I made a post to document some of the problems I faced.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tage-1-roush-tune-inside.121111/#post-2528606

I didn’t get many responses other the refrigerant police stating the obvious: “Don’t go to a repair facility with the incorrect refrigerant in your car. It will damage their equipment.” Yes this is true but most shops have a refrigerant identifier built into their recovery machine to help protect their equipment. If I went to the dealer, my car would be completely recovered with the system in a vacuum state.

A lot Hellcat and GM guys are using the FI chiller systems. They outperform the Killer Chiller but they're $1200+.

 

[Stymee]

I like seeing guys who actually can give factual information that own the roush kit. What I’m curios about is the 10.9 was done is high DA’s and I assume your 11.1’s were done in high DA’s too.

What would the kit run in fall weather, the 10.9 would pick up .2 and that 11.1 car easy

10.70 isn’t too bad for a pump gas, drag radial blower car with a mild canned tune?

I’d be pretty happy with that, what I’m also curious is how quickly the IAT’s return in cooler weather, say your at the track on a 55 degree day and you make a run, what would u see at the end data logging IAT’s and how long would they go back to reasonable numbers to make another pass.

I never ever hot lapped a car, nor would I ever do it so to me waiting 15m to make another pass would be fine.

I dont street race either, maybe a quick hit on a quiet road, I like racing at the track so again to me waiting a bit to run the car wouldn’t bother me.

But if running high IAT’s on the street could potentially hurt the engine under a hard pull here and there? Yea that would be upsetting

 

[Toydoctor]

But if running high IAT’s on the street could potentially hurt the engine under a hard pull here and there? Yea that would be upsetting

I think that roush does a great job with the calibration to protect the engine. I think the number one complaint about roush’s cal is how it’s too conservative by pulling timing and reducing power through closing the throttle plate. Yes this is extremely annoying but the engine stays safe. I can’t speak for aftermarket tuners and what they are doing other than just raising the rev limit and modifying shift points for the A10 guys.

However if you are able to keep the IAT charge temps down the engine will make power proven by quarter mile times by some.

I would rather loose power from high Charge temps than the PCM pulling timing due to knock. It just takes one good detonation event break ring lands and torch pistons.

 

[Jmtoast]

I think that roush does a great job with the calibration to protect the engine. I think the number one complaint about roush’s cal is how it’s too conservative by pulling timing and reducing power through closing the throttle plate. Yes this is extremely annoying but the engine stays safe. I can’t speak for aftermarket tuners and what they are doing other than just raising the rev limit and modifying shift points for the A10 guys.

However if you are able to keep the IAT charge temps down the engine will make power proven by quarter mile times by some.

I would rather loose power from high Charge temps than the PCM pulling timing due to knock. It just takes one good detonation event break ring lands and torch pistons.

Personally I’ve had zero problems with heat while roll racing and pulling to 130-140 with the new Ltr, July tune (new one came out in aug), and new fb. Of course that’s in Michigan with highway airflow to cool things down. I definitely see the speed limiter kicking in early at exactly 125 like the other poster datalogged but then it power kicks right back in to 140+ which where I usually let off. It happens very quickly. Hopefully the newest tune fixes that. Roll racing is different though. You have constant good airflow to cool down afterwards instead of sitting in a staging area.

 

[Ruiner46]

Thanks! I’ve done a lot while working around Roush’s tune. I built a chiller system for the Intercooler. Based upon what I’ve logged, roush must have several tables for timing and torque limiting based around the IAT2 sensor. I want HP tuners software to really see what’s going on.

You got me interested, so I dug around and found a supposed 2018 Roush tune on the internet. Here is a screenshot of the tables related to IAT2 (labeled as MCT), and also engine coolant temp timing retard. The way these tables work is that the ECU looks up the load and rpm and then multiplies the modifier there with the base value in the other table with MCT or ECT vs Fuel alcohol composition. I guess that is for flex fuel vehicles, but flex fuel is disabled in this tune. Example for MCT would be if you are at 5000rpm, 151 F, and WOT, the multiplier would be 0.1, and base would be -75, so total timing retard would be (0.1)*(-75) = -7.5 degrees

For IAT2/MCT, they start pulling timing at only 100 F. As a comparison, the Whipple tune for my car doesn't pull any timing until 150 F.

 

[Jmtoast]

You got me interested, so I dug around and found a supposed 2018 Roush tune on the internet. Here is a screenshot of the tables related to IAT2 (labeled as MCT), and also engine coolant temp timing retard. The way these tables work is that the ECU looks up the load and rpm and then multiplies the modifier there with the base value in the other table with MCT or ECT vs Fuel alcohol composition. I guess that is for flex fuel vehicles, but flex fuel is disabled in this tune. Example for MCT would be if you are at 5000rpm, 151 F, and WOT, the multiplier would be 0.1, and base would be -75, so total timing retard would be (0.1)*(-75) = -7.5 degrees

For IAT2/MCT, they start pulling timing at only 100 F. As a comparison, the Whipple tune for my car doesn't pull any timing until 150 F.

That’s interesting but That’s probably 2 cals ago. I’d be interested to see something for 2019. Too many people with recent Roush kit purchase are happy for there to have not been changes versus the scores of people who were very unhappy on the earlier 18 kits

 

[Toydoctor]

That’s interesting but That’s probably 2 cals ago. I’d be interested to see something for 2019. Too many people with recent Roush kit purchase are happy for there to have not been changes versus the scores of people who were very unhappy on the earlier 18 kits

I’m still waiting for an updated calibration. Put a call into roush less than a week ago.
The technician even mentioned about an update for “heat soak improvements”. (A10 only) He said to check back in October.

Perhaps the autos have priority over the manual trans cars due to the stick shifts being the minority.

 

[sloride]

You got me interested, so I dug around and found a supposed 2018 Roush tune on the internet. Here is a screenshot of the tables related to IAT2 (labeled as MCT), and also engine coolant temp timing retard. The way these tables work is that the ECU looks up the load and rpm and then multiplies the modifier there with the base value in the other table with MCT or ECT vs Fuel alcohol composition. I guess that is for flex fuel vehicles, but flex fuel is disabled in this tune. Example for MCT would be if you are at 5000rpm, 151 F, and WOT, the multiplier would be 0.1, and base would be -75, so total timing retard would be (0.1)*(-75) = -7.5 degrees

For IAT2/MCT, they start pulling timing at only 100 F. As a comparison, the Whipple tune for my car doesn't pull any timing until 150 F.

Actually I believe how the tables work you’re car would slowly start to pull timing as soon as it went over 100. It interpolates between 100 and 151. So the correction at 125 would roughly be half of the -75

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