I made 425 with just a GT350 CAI, an 87mm TB long tube catted headers and a very conservative ford racing tune running shell 93. Most all tuners can pull out more than the factory can. If you have the same stuff as I plus an 18 manifold you should have been in the 440 range on 91. I'm sorry but if he got less than the factory tune with more and better stuff, it doesn't say much for his tuning skills.Update: FBO now & pockets empty lol
JLT, GT350 TB, 18 intake, 47 lb injectors, Texas Speed (catless) long tubes, Flowmaster X-pipe & cat-back (already installed). $2105 for labor, custom dyno tune 3 tunes (91, Flex, E85), fuel swap, IMRC lockouts, using my SCT device.
SAE dyno: 414 RWHP (91 gas) @ 5700 RPM
That number seems kinda low, You have basically the same equipment as I have, plus an 18 manifold and 11 hp less than I did.
This may sound aggressive but… if it’s 15% drivetrain loss…. 455 is 535 at the crank. Even 439 is 516 at the crank. Even if it’s only 12% loss… 439 is 499. So safe to say 500 Hp car now!?
That is based on decades of real world experience, typically a manual trans makes about 15% less than on a chassis dyno than what the factory advertised hp is.
Rev limiter 7800, I was advised to shift @ 7500 (good Lord help me)
I would still shift at 7000, just because it will still pull to 7500 or 7800 doesn't mean it's a good idea. There is a chance you will break your oil pump gears if you continually rev it that high as the factory OPG's like to be at or below 7K
Hopefully I can get a refund with VMP IMRC harness it was $70, tuner said it’s crap.
He probably said that because he is either to lazy to make the tune keep the IMRC active, or he doesn't know how to. A strictly race setup you can lockout them and it's no big deal, but on a street car, you lost a little on the low end by allowing him to lock out the IMRC.
I didn’t know E85 would cause peak power at higher RPM.
It didn't, it was the 18 manifold, every one knows the 18 mani flows a lot better on the top than the 15-17 mani does.
Oh yeah, please post a video, so we can hear it? Thanks
You made 425 to the wheel with essentially the Ford Performance Power Pack 2 and catted headers on 91 or 93 I’m assuming? Sounds very generous to me. Do you know if that’s SAE or STD dyno numbers? I’ve been reading this stuff for DAAAAAAYYYSS like obsessive and I’ve NEVER seen those kind of numbers SAE on pump gas with that setup you have. Man Ford doesn’t even advertise that much gain in Hp…. 21 HP gain is what they say. So I think maybe you have a unique set up.I made 425 with just a GT350 CAI, an 87mm TB long tube catted headers and a very conservative ford racing tune running shell 93. Most all tuners can pull out more than the factory can. If you have the same stuff as I plus an 18 manifold you should have been in the 440 range on 91. I'm sorry but if he got less than the factory tune with more and better stuff, it doesn't say much for his tuning skills.
You should have O2 bungs in the pipe. They may have plugs in them right now. If so, you would remove those plugs, screw in the spacers and then screw the O2 sensors into the spacers and plug them into the factory O2 sensor harnesses.Does anyone have a recommendation on how to install rear O2 simulators or MIL eliminators or O2 spacers or foulers whatever the hell they’re called there’s so many different terms. I have CEL on bc I have catless headers. Does it require drilling into the headers or how does this work? Would something like this work?
http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/mini-cat-cel-fix.html
I don’t think mine came with rear bungs. Tuner said EPA won’t let him turn them off and he just ignores it on his mustang.You should have O2 bungs in the pipe. They may have plugs in them right now. If so, you would remove those plugs, screw in the spacers and then screw the O2 sensors into the spacers and plug them into the factory O2 sensor harnesses.
Oh okay, we’ll in that case, you’ll have to have an exhaust shop or a skilled welder drill holes in the mid pipe and weld in O2 bungs and then follow the information in my previous post. It’s been said that mounting the bungs/O2 sensors at a 45* angle (like in the pic below) will help them live longer on E85.I don’t think mine came with rear bungs. Tuner said EPA won’t let him turn them off and he just ignores it on his mustang.
No I mean the car just died again in neutral. It drops down to 500 rpm or below and I don’t understand how it can do that when the idol is set at 625 it appears. It drops then adjusts to 625. Tuner said it’s the GT350 throttle body and that it’s an easy fix. I think if we just set it at 750 it should be fine. Doesn’t die all the time but if I feel it dying I just blip it.I wouldn’t worry about data logging unless is happens again. Like you said, it could have been self induced. Enjoy it and look More into it if it occurs again. .
If it’s idling at 625, then that means the idle must have been lowered in the tune. Most cars idle at 750 from the factory. Bump it up to 750 and also verify that all of your hose clamps are tight on your CAI kit.No I mean the car just died again in neutral. It drops down to 500 rpm or below and I don’t understand how it can do that when the idol is set at 625 it appears. It drops then adjusts to 625. Tuner said it’s the GT350 throttle body and that it’s an easy fix. I think if we just set it at 750 it should be fine. Doesn’t die all the time but if I feel it dying I just blip it.