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Return style fuel system question

scoobaru88

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I have a return style fuel system and dual regulators. It’s been on for 3-4months now. I just noticed the passenger regulator (direct injectors) does not hold pressure when pumps are off but the drivers side will hold pressure, it drops very slow.
Anyone else experience this? Normal? Never noticed it before.
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scoobaru88

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HKusp

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DW400's?
 
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scoobaru88

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Walbro285-have four of them in the tank with a Snyder fuel module. They used to hold pressure on shutoff fine, now not so much. They still put out pressure fine.
 

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Cory S

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Walbro285-have four of them in the tank with a Snyder fuel module. They used to hold pressure on shutoff fine, now not so much. They still put out pressure fine.
4? WTF am I missing here? 3 of those will do 1700whp. Not to mention having close to a 80A draw from your electrical system. WOW.
 
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scoobaru88

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4? WTF am I missing here? 3 of those will do 1700whp. Not to mention having close to a 80A draw from your electrical system. WOW.
I’ve only got 3 wired up. Just threw the 4th one incase pump died or something.
 
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scoobaru88

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Too fancy for me. I'm an 8 squirter guy.

If the system is losing pressure, it's generally a sign of either a leak or the check valve (either in the pump itself or in the line if an external version is involved) is bad.
Correct. I verified no leaks with the lines, regulators, injectors. With the check valve installed it holds pressure. So I’m aiming towards the fuel pump check valve bad.
 

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I am running dual TI 274s on a single regulator setup, and no check valve on the lines. Interestingly mine does not hold pressure like I thought it would (I believe 274s have internal check valves). Regardless I have no leaks and the car starts, runs, and fuels fine.
 

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Angrey

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I'm pretty sure the check valve in at least one of my 440's has gone out. Nothing has changed on the car and the starts are REALLY REALLY grumpy now. Trying to cycle/prime several times prior to start doesn't help much, as the line is either draining back or thermal burping and there's voids in the lines at start up and it's herky/jerky until it burps them all out through the rails. I'm considering adding an in line check valve but have to find something that doesn't add significant head loss.
 

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I'm pretty sure the check valve in at least one of my 440's has gone out. Nothing has changed on the car and the starts are REALLY REALLY grumpy now. Trying to cycle/prime several times prior to start doesn't help much, as the line is either draining back or thermal burping and there's voids in the lines at start up and it's herky/jerky until it burps them all out through the rails. I'm considering adding an in line check valve but have to find something that doesn't add significant head loss.
What are you doing to force more than one priming evolution? I’ve found that cold starts are still rock solid for me but warm starts are a bit weak and sometimes take a crank or 2 more. Being on E85 and a return system this is somewhat expected but I feel an extra priming evolution would help me out on warm starts.
 

Angrey

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What are you doing to force more than one priming evolution? I’ve found that cold starts are still rock solid for me but warm starts are a bit weak and sometimes take a crank or 2 more. Being on E85 and a return system this is somewhat expected but I feel an extra priming evolution would help me out on warm starts.
I have a manual so I simply sit in the car and cycle the ignition/accessory button without my foot on the clutch. I can hear the pumps prime and shut off. I then turn the accessories off. And turn them back on. You have to wait a certain amount or it won't do it (it seems). In any case, it doesn't help. Once air pockets are in the lines, priming won't do anything, it's just cycling pressure and relief against a closed system. The only thing that will get them out is to either fire the motor and let the rails drink, or somehow adjust the pressure regulator allowing the voids past it and through the return (which isn't practical).
 

Angrey

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If I've identified the problem correctly, then either replacing the pumps (expensive) would be an option or if it REALLY gets to me, I can wire in a switch/jumper to provide the pumps manual power on (using a constant source) rather than using the FPDM signal (which primes and shuts off). That would fire the pumps and they'd run with a return flow until all the void pockets are cleared out.
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