pilotgore
Well-Known Member
That’s useful knowledge right there!It makes a $10k+ difference on a 60+ year old Porsche![]()
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That’s useful knowledge right there!It makes a $10k+ difference on a 60+ year old Porsche![]()
You couldn't be more correct... I have been thinking about my potential resale of my Porsche 718 in 2077. I will be a young/spry 113 year old.That’s useful knowledge right there!
Hopefuly a rod doesn't exit through the top of the engine case ruining your matching numbers engine like mine didYou couldn't be more correct... I have been thinking about my potential resale of my Porsche 718 in 2077. I will be a young/spry 113 year old.
Damn! You got $31k??? I sold my 02 Z06 for $20k with 55k miles in 2010.This topic has been beaten almost enough, but let me chime in. I bought a brand new 2002 Z06 Corvette. It was the first year of the then-mighty 405 hp LS6 engine. Having gotten my engine thrashing urges out of my system in my youth, I used the car for fun touring and never raced It. When the car was 37 months old w 17K miles on it (Warranty was 3/36 back in those days), I was happily using cruise control, going down A long hill on the highway in 6th at 75 mph. Car surged a few times (as if cc were malfunctioning) then stalled. I coasted along and then restarted engine, everything was fine. About three seconds later it sounded like a Texas-sized hail storm under the hood and I was done for the day.
Turns out the 2002 Z06 had valve spring issues, so much so that they had a new version of the springs (w new part number) issued. They just neglected to tell folks like me about it. My car broke a valve spring, dropped a valve, which broke a piston and rod assembly and bent the crank. And there was little old me, 1 month out of warranty.....
After much discourse with the Chevy zone office and the zone engineer coming out looking at my car, they agreed to replace the long block and give me a 7-year powertrain warranty. I paid $1,000 dollars towards the install cost. Replacement mill was flawless, hat tip to Botnick Chevrolet in Binghamton, NY for making it happen.
i kept the car and traded it at the end of the 7-year warranty, with a total of 34K miles on the car, to buy my 2011 GT500. Before hand, I checked values on edmunds, kbb, etc., as well as soliciting opinions on Z06Vette.com for value estimates, never telling anyone about the engine. I wanted unbiased opinions. Consensus value was 30-32K for the car. Thus armed, I went to the Ford dealer and told them about the engine replacement. They gave me $31K for the car.
So, here’s what I learned If your motor pops:
1) Don‘t freak out. You can be disappointed, but don’t be a dick. You’ll need everyone at the dealership on your side to help. The first blown mill is the toughest, (this was not my first), but even if it’s your first, act like a veteran.
2) Buy an extended warranty, don’t skip that like I did, it almost bit me in the ass
3) The black box is your friend. My Z was one of the very first cars to have a data recorder. The zone engineer pulled that data and verified that I was indeed in 6th gear @ 2000 rpm or so when the motor blew. I did not mechanically over-rev the engine (eg shift 6-2 instead of 6-4).
4) I told the absolute truth about what happened to the engineer and he verified it via the data, so if I’d been fibbing, I’d have gone home on a flatbed. Even if I had screwed up, I would have told him. Honesty is your best friend here, these cars record everything.
5) while under warranty, go with dealer service. I had a fistful of Chevy dealer maintenance records for the car, so that took that argument off the table. I’ve rebuilt engines, transmissions and diffs, so I sure as hell can change oil, but I let the dealer do it on my Z. Best money I ever spent.
6) my car was clean. Mechanic at the dealership later told me the zone engineer went all over the car, looking for shredded rubber in the wheel wells, any sign of mods, abuse, aftermarket parts, etc. I passed w flying colors. I know you like to mod your car, but man up and realize that if you mod it, you own it.
7) NEVER buy the first year of a new power plant. The first year of the LS6 had issues and I found out the hard way. So did Chevy, cause they bought me a $10K long block.
8) And finally, for a car with normal miles (about 35K over 10 years is normal for a summer-driven car In NYS) the replaced motor had ZERO impact on resale value. If someone tells you it does, ask them about a car they sold with a reloaded engine and how the price they got differed from a neutral source like KBB. Odds are, they’ve never sold a car with a replaced engine, so take their advice with a grain of salt.
I readily admit that if you were trying to sell a 10 year old car w 2000 miles on it and trying to get the premium from a collector, then it would have an impact on resale, but how many people have a car like that? If you’re a driver, the replaced engine won’t hurt you. If you’re a speculator, it will. So now that cars make 700+ HP, that ‘02 Z06 doesn’t have Boss ‘9 value, even if it had 50 miles on the odo. That’s why it’s called speculation.
So, if your plan was to have the modern financial equivalent of the Boss 9, then put your car in a bag and never drive it. Then you can rest assured you will have the original motor 50 years from now. Of course, the 2029 1200 hp Boss 429 will make your car worth much less.
Me? I’ll by a S&P index fund and dwarf the returns on that car. Ya can't take it with you, guys.