Reliable higher HP builds

[ToxicOverwatch]

I just got into Forced Induction and I can already see what direction this is going. I might as well start looking at build strategy and start to understand it. As of now I’m just a street car. I’ll probably make my way to the strip here and there, but light duty for the most part.

You guys making 800-1000 hp, what did/would you do to reliably maintain it? I commonly hear sleeving, pistons, rods, ring gap, and head bolts.

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[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Don’t forget about the transmission and the rest of the drivetrain. Of the guys I personally know with boosted S550s making around 750 rwhp (about 6 or so), all have broken their trans. It’s not made for that kind of power.

 

[Jasonb543]

If you’re just looking for 800-1000ish go aluminator.
No question asked… if you’re going for more in the teens than fast forward/ real street. Predator block/ gt350 heads all the goodies.

 

[ToxicOverwatch]

Don’t forget about the transmission and the rest of the drivetrain. Of the guys I personally know with boosted S550s making around 750 rwhp (about 6 or so), all have broken their trans. It’s not made for that kind of power.

Yes, the trans is actually a project for this winter. Considering tackling that myself. I will probably run stock driveshaft and half shafts until they go meet Jesus. Researching that separately, but I am all ears if you have recommendations!

 

[ToxicOverwatch]

If you’re just looking for 800-1000ish go aluminator.
No question asked… if you’re going for more in the teens than fast forward/ real street. Predator block/ gt350 heads all the goodies.

I had looked at that when Jegs had them for $500 . You think an alluminator would be better/more cost efficient than building one?

 

[Jasonb543]

100%
I believe it is the easiest, fastest solution with OEM quality and durability 2nd to none.

It’s a bargain for the price.

 

[HKusp]

Agreed. I got a deal on my block and crank for almost 1/2 what they actually cost. With that, my shortblock with machining was almost $7k.

 

[Ls_Eater]

I mean - really the question is what you consider reliable, or what you want your power goals to be.

when you’re making 2.5x the power the car came with there’s going to be some sacrifices if you’re not willing to invest $$$ into building everything to handle it.

Im nearing the 100k mile marker at this point -1100whp for the last 30k miles of that - stock engine - magnum XL swapped trans - full driveline “built” (driveshaft, half shafts, suspension etc) and I have daily driven this car since new until recently.

eventually you come to grips with the fact that making more power = more things break and each time you take it out something will inevitably go wrong.

I don’t regret it at all - the cars an absolute riot…but just know what You’re getting into or how much you’re willing to spend

 

[ToxicOverwatch]

I mean - really the question is what you consider reliable, or what you want your power goals to be.

when you’re making 2.5x the power the car came with there’s going to be some sacrifices if you’re not willing to invest $$$ into building everything to handle it.

Im nearing the 100k mile marker at this point -1100whp for the last 30k miles of that - stock engine - magnum XL swapped trans - full driveline “built” (driveshaft, half shafts, suspension etc) and I have daily driven this car since new until recently.

eventually you come to grips with the fact that making more power = more things break and each time you take it out something will inevitably go wrong.

I don’t regret it at all - the cars an absolute riot…but just know what You’re getting into or how much you’re willing to spend

I am all too aware of this lol. More specifically, my goal is to take the most common sense approach at overbuilding and underutilizing this for my intended purpose. I got a taste of 850hp~ while tuning and I loved it. I put a larger pulley back on because I know my stock internals are likely on borrowed time if I gave it a steady diet of 850- at minimum I need to have funding for a trans ready before I push it. I want to be able to be at that power level and not worry whether or not “this will be the one” on a catastrophic level.

I feel like if I am confident in the motor, the rest are things I can likely work on myself and have it fixed fairly quickly.

 

[ice445]

What fuel do you plan to use? Trying to make big power on pump gas with how variable it is typically leads to more motor abuse than if you run consistent E85 or race fuel. With the compression ratio of these engines it becomes really difficult to push those big numbers for very long without really good fuel.

Something to think about on your journey.

 

[ToxicOverwatch]

What fuel do you plan to use? Trying to make big power on pump gas with how variable it is typically leads to more motor abuse than if you run consistent E85 or race fuel. With the compression ratio of these engines it becomes really difficult to push those big numbers for very long without really good fuel.

Something to think about on your journey.

Valid point. I do have two tunes, one for E85 and the other for 91. On any smaller pulley, I will always run E85. My area is notorious for not having the best fuel. The good news is there is a very solid fuel station I get my fuel from. It’s an hour away but as of now I store it short term (1 month or so). That station mixes E85 at the pump and they are incredibly consistent being +/-3% according to my tester. They also have E100 at the pump as well.

 

[SolarFlare]

you might get better answers in the proper forced induction section…but.

I’ve been boosted for 7 years. Probably 30+ wot pulls on the stock 2015 motor with OPGs/CS. I try to do the following.

1. frequent oil changes, 1500-2000 miles or 3-4 months.
2. Oil analysis every 2 years or so
3. New plugs every year and look for abnormalities on them.
3. Good fuel system that’s maintained. New pumps every few years.
4. Good tested E85
5. No pulls to 160+ nor back to back pulls
6. Keep an eye on logs for issues.
7. don’t beat on it if something seems wrong

 

[ToxicOverwatch]

you might get better answers in the proper forced induction section…but.

I’ve been boosted for 7 years. Probably 30+ wot pulls on the stock 2015 motor with OPGs/CS. I try to do the following.

1. frequent oil changes, 1500-2000 miles or 3-4 months.
2. Oil analysis every 2 years or so
3. New plugs every year and look for abnormalities on them.
3. Good fuel system that’s maintained. New pumps every few years.
4. Good tested E85
5. No pulls to 160+ nor back to back pulls
6. Keep an eye on logs for issues.
7. don’t beat on it if something seems wrong

I did consider placing this in the FI section, but I thought since the scope of this was more related to engine only this was the right place. Maybe I should have put it there lol.

Your procedure is basically exactly what I do/have planned to do, which is good. How much boost are you running for that longevity? What is your go-to oil?

It seems that I read about guys living in the mid 800 hp range with a stock block and good maintenance. Maybe I need to just beef up my trans and see what happens after I get financially recovered.

 

[MAGS1]

The “safest” way to go FI is go the Ford Performance/Roush blower or Whipple using their tunes. The tunes are written to protect the motor and trans (and cats). But you’re also not going to put down max power either, as with anything there’s trade offs. Those are very streetable FI solutions with occasional track duty.

Sounds like you may want to push it more than that. If that’s the case, I don’t really have much to add to the above suggestions, but I’m also not a max HP person. I’d be perfectly fine with the FP/Roush or Whipple using their stock tunes. But we all have different goals.

 

[RMoeslein]

I just got into Forced Induction and I can already see what direction this is going. I might as well start looking at build strategy and start to understand it. As of now I’m just a street car. I’ll probably make my way to the strip here and there, but light duty for the most part.

You guys making 800-1000 hp, what did/would you do to reliably maintain it? I commonly hear sleeving, pistons, rods, ring gap, and head bolts.

Ive gone from a 2014 gt with a roush stage 1, to a 2019 with a whipple stage 2, to my current M1 with Hellion street sleeper. 575whp -710 whp- 900 whp. The 2014 was stock other than the blower kit. The 2019 had clutch, driveshaft, and half shafts. The 2022 has E85 fuels system, clutch, driveshaft, half shafts, steeda stop the hop kit. i would be happy to answer any specific questions you have.

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