Reliable DD

[Ecoboosted]

I know the HP and performance bar keeps rising for the EB platform but what would the highest HP be for a reliable daily driver? I'm not sure if i am going to mod my EB but if i do it i will go big but still need it to be a reliable daily driver.

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[Herr_Poopschitz]

What's your budget?

 

[Ecoboosted]

Well i'm thinking in a year or 2 when the platform is worked out and my car will be paid off by then of doing the block (pistons, cams, head etc) bigger turbo, FMIC, CAI and a single exhaust and all the supporting parts. Hopefully someone will offer a quiet exhaust. I want a sleeper not a loud ass car that is obnoxious sounding where people can hear a mile a way. No offense but all the exhaust's i've heard don't do it for me.

Hopefully about 10-12K if that's possible. I will never race the car or take it to a track. I just want a sleeper that's quiet but very quick with an occasional punch the pedal on an open road to feel the rush of power.

 

[willmkent]

i think a couple tuners spoke out about having roughly 330 HP and about 380 TQ would really be the max they would trust for DD power.... i may be a little off but I do remember reading that somewhere on here

 

[Ecoboosted]

i think a couple tuners spoke out about having roughly 330 HP and about 380 TQ would really be the max they would trust for DD power.... i may be a little off but I do remember reading that somewhere on here

I'm hoping for 500-600 with daily driver reliability. If it's not possible i might just keep the car stock and get a 17' GT or SS Camaro when the time comes.

 

[mach1]

I'm hoping for 500-600 with daily driver reliability. If it's not possible i might just keep the car stock and get a 17' GT or SS Camaro when the time comes.

Upgraded internals and the right turbo may put you there.

 

[willmkent]

I'm hoping for 500-600 with daily driver reliability. If it's not possible i might just keep the car stock and get a 17' GT or SS Camaro when the time comes.

those are huge numbers for a completely stock engine from ford.. plus you will certainly have to swap out to a larger turbo. honestly the money you would put into that trying to build an ECOboost, you would have already had a GT and could just slap a supercharger on it and call it.

** EDIT ** re read your post and saw you would want to do a build.. personally i don't think that would be worth it at all

 

[Ecoboosted]

those are huge numbers for a completely stock engine from ford.. plus you will certainly have to swap out to a larger turbo. honestly the money you would put into that trying to build an ECOboost, you would have already had a GT and could just slap a supercharger on it and call it.

** EDIT ** re read your post and saw you would want to do a build.. personally i don't think that would be worth it at all

Not worth it to you maybe but for me it is. I like to have something different than most people. Hence why i went with the EB in the first place. I could of easily have gotten a GT if i wanted one. The only thing i wish i had the GT for is the exhaust note. Other than that i am happy with the EB. I just want more power at my dispose on an occasional basis. Something super quick and light that no one would notice.

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

those are huge numbers for a completely stock engine from ford.. plus you will certainly have to swap out to a larger turbo. honestly the money you would put into that trying to build an ECOboost, you would have already had a GT and could just slap a supercharger on it and call it.

** EDIT ** re read your post and saw you would want to do a build.. personally i don't think that would be worth it at all

:readthethread: OP didn't ask if it were worth it to you, and your numbers are way off anyway.

OP, the goals defined should be achievable. Just costs $, which you're clearly aware of.

 

[Glenn G]

The P1.5 kit from Map gets you 320/420 at the wheels, should be fine for ages on the stock engine.

 

[bam88]

One thing to mention about built motors, yes they stand up to heat and pressure better but you trade off some reliability due to piston slap. Due to the piston and the block being different metals their rate of thermal expansion is different which means you need a larger PWC (piston to wall clearance). This can then cause "piston slap" during times when the motor is not at operating temperature. Just something to keep in the back of your mind and make the most informed choice you can.

 

[MAPerformance]

With a built engine, turbo kit, and fuel system upgrade making 500-600whp to drive daily shouldn't be an issue.

10-12k puts you pretty close to what we would charge to set you up with something like that. We definitely have the ability to do it, and everything is actually already available to do it, once we finalize the fuel system this week.

 

[MAPerformance]

One thing to mention about built motors, yes they stand up to heat and pressure better but you trade off some reliability due to piston slap. Due to the piston and the block being different metals their rate of thermal expansion is different which means you need a larger PWC (piston to wall clearance). This can then cause "piston slap" during times when the motor is not at operating temperature. Just something to keep in the back of your mind and make the most informed choice you can.

Piston slap all depends on the builder, it isn't something all built engines have an issue with. The technology in pistons have come along way since expansion has been a problem. I have customers with 80,000 miles on some of our built engines.

 

[superblur]

Piston slap all depends on the builder, it isn't something all built engines have an issue with. The technology in pistons have come along way since expansion has been a problem. I have customers with 80,000 miles on some of our built engines.

Doesn't that also have to do with what type of alloy you use for pistons?

From what I've read - 2618 gives more leeway with detonation but expands much more than 4032. Since 4032 doesn't expand as much it reduces wear and tear on cylinder walls.

I could never really find the horsepower limit on 4032 pistons though - seems like everyone who builds an engine goes straight to 2618 :shrug:

 

[MAPerformance]

Doesn't that also have to do with what type of alloy you use for pistons?

From what I've read - 2618 gives more leeway with detonation but expands much more than 4032. Since 4032 doesn't expand as much it reduces wear and tear on cylinder walls.

I could never really find the horsepower limit on 4032 pistons though - seems like everyone who builds an engine goes straight to 2618 :shrug:

Exactly. 2618 is the most common, 4032 are a little softer and don't handle as much power. Example of 2618 vs 4032 is Mahle in Subaru engines. The limit of 4032 pistons is about 450-500whp, which isn't much more than stock.

2618 is the standard, there are other options but this is pretty much what every aftermarket piston is made out of.

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