Reducing Under Hood Temps

[Juben]

In regards to wrapping the downpipe, I'd only wrap the upper portion from the turbine outlet to the secondary O2 sensor. That'd keep a large majority of the heat under control but wouldn't leave the wrap so far down that weather should affect it much, if any, at all.

Whenever I fill the urge to remove the downpipe yet again, I plan to wrap the upper portion of mine.

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[Busser48]

Definitely need to look into them then. I know my EBM is just a daily, for now, but I don't like seeing 100-140 degree intake temps on any car. I'm currently in the process of doing the exact same kind of research on my GT before I go about boosting it.

Intake temp is not necessarily the most important part, u want to look at your charge temps, and that's where an intercooler comes into play

 

[Juben]

Intake temp is not necessarily the most important part, u want to look at your charge temps, and that's where an intercooler comes into play

Intake temps are very important though because they're the base for the charge temps. The higher the intake temps, the higher the charge air temps. Unless you have meth, you can't cool below ambient, even with the best intercooler, so I'd rather have a 70° IAT than a 104° IAT.

 

[Busser48]

Intake temps are very important though because they're the base for the charge temps. The higher the intake temps, the higher the charge air temps. Unless you have meth, you can't cool below ambient, even with the best intercooler, so I'd rather have a 70° IAT than a 104° IAT.

Yes but there's not much you can do to drastically reduce intake temps, even with a vented hood as soon as you stop they shoot up.

 

[Busser48]

I guess I meant as a mod an intercooler plays a bigger role at reducing the air going into the turbo. Intake temps are more weather and heat related. Vented hoods and heat blankets will only do so much.

 

[Impulsed7]

BTW, the stock hood is entirely aluminum.

All the aftermarket hoods OTHER THAN the Cortex/Tiger racing ones are heavier. The 1700 Cortex/Tiger shaves only a few lbs.

 

[PRG3k]

Pressure differential can scoot that hotter air out of the vents once moving. EVERY little bit will help on this furnace of a car. The EB needs the hood vents more than the GT imo as our car is drastically more negatively affected by heat soak.
But this is a 'hot' running car in general. Remember the heat shielding recall? I can barely work on it unless it's been sitting for at least 6-8 hours. And even then the block will still be hotter than shit. Joys of a small turbo

 

[Tucsonturbos]

Pressure differential can scoot that hotter air out of the vents once moving. EVERY little bit will help on this furnace of a car. The EB needs the hood vents more than the GT imo as our car is drastically more negatively affected by heat soak.
But this is a 'hot' running car in general. Remember the heat shielding recall? I can barely work on it unless it's been sitting for at least 6-8 hours. And even then the block will still be hotter than shit. Joys of a small turbo

Absolutely on point. Literally burned myself today... right no im looking into proper universal heat extractors (the miata guys have an extremely effective kit that i cant remember the name of). Proper heat extractors and ducting for intakes/INTERCOOLER help a lot. Currently making a mold for an intercooler duct. Look up "corky bell" and should get some hits on google for how to properly duck intercoolers. Opening 1/3 size of effective core.

 

[PewterCam]

...Proper heat extractors and ducting for intakes/INTERCOOLER help a lot. Currently making a mold for an intercooler duct. Look up "corky bell" and should get some hits on google for how to properly duck intercoolers. Opening 1/3 size of effective core.

Yup.. this is why I choose to cut the slats and center bar out of my grill shutters instead of just chucking them all. The outer shroud channels air directly into the IC and radiator.

 

[Juben]

Yes but there's not much you can do to drastically reduce intake temps, even with a vented hood as soon as you stop they shoot up.

You can run an intake made of plastic, like the JLT, Roush, or Airaid, which is resistant to heat soak. Opening up the hole(s) in the upper grille also helps. If you delete the grille mesh entirely at the air inlet (on the upper grille), it's a large, straight shot of fresh cool air going right into the intake box with one of the aforementioned intakes. If a person is running a metal intake, like the MAP or MMR, you could remove a fog light and that'd open up a good bit of airflow into the inner fender (filter chamber).

I can sit in traffic for twenty minutes straight and have the IATs get to 140+, but they plummet and are back to ambient within very few miles. I have the JLT intake.

Also, people who already have a metal intake can get the DEI gold heat shield tape to help with heat soaking the metal tube.

 

[CustomS550]

I should mentiom that after getting the unleashed tune the coolant temps rarely go over 190 and hover mostly around 183. With the stock tune temps would hover around 200 with regular driving but drop to mid 180s under wot.

 

[speedfrk]

I should mentiom that after getting the unleashed tune the coolant temps rarely go over 190 and hover mostly around 183. With the stock tune temps would hover around 200 with regular driving but drop to mid 180s under wot.

I imagine that the tuners have the shutters opening much sooner than stock- maybe set to always be open... Livernois makes a 160deg T-stat that would probably help as well.

 

[Busser48]

I imagine that the tuners have the shutters opening much sooner than stock- maybe set to always be open... Livernois makes a 160deg T-stat that would probably help as well.

Not sure if this applies to people who have AGS removed, I don't think a tune changes your cylinder temps, but I could be wrong. Maybe like you said the AGS, but anyone with ten min can remove theres, no need for a tune

 

[Busser48]

You can run an intake made of plastic, like the JLT, Roush, or Airaid, which is resistant to heat soak. Opening up the hole(s) in the upper grille also helps. If you delete the grille mesh entirely at the air inlet (on the upper grille), it's a large, straight shot of fresh cool air going right into the intake box with one of the aforementioned intakes. If a person is running a metal intake, like the MAP or MMR, you could remove a fog light and that'd open up a good bit of airflow into the inner fender (filter chamber).

I can sit in traffic for twenty minutes straight and have the IATs get to 140+, but they plummet and are back to ambient within very few miles. I have the JLT intake.

Also, people who already have a metal intake can get the DEI gold heat shield tape to help with heat soaking the metal tube.

I run the JLT CAI.

 

[Impulsed7]

Gut the shutters. Take out the motor and the slats, but the "housing" for the shutters is excellent ducting.

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