Quick Xineering downshift blip module install review

[drummerboy]

I accidentally twisted the switch and it popped out of its hole and landed beside my head. That's why took the headlight switch out - so I could maneuver the clutch switch back into place. Made plugging in the switch a lot easier, though.

Same here. I didn't pop the headlight switch out, but after fiddling with the clutch switch for about 20sec, I refused to continue to try to plug it in with it mounted in place and pulled it out as well. This was certainly influenced, though, by having previously removed the other (wrong) clutch switch. I already had it in mind to remove it and also wanted to look at the pins since the other one wouldn't fit

What would the names for these two clutch switches be? Engaged/Disengaged? Depressed/Released?

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[JAJ]

Same here. I didn't pop the headlight switch out, but after fiddling with the clutch switch for about 20sec, I refused to continue to try to plug it in with it mounted in place and pulled it out as well. This was certainly influenced, though, by having previously removed the other (wrong) clutch switch. I already had it in mind to remove it and also wanted to look at the pins since the other one wouldn't fit

What would the names for these two clutch switches be? Engaged/Disengaged? Depressed/Released?

Okay, so I did call the upper switch some names, but none of ones you suggest came to mind at the time.

The actual purpose for the upper switch is to cancel cruise control, so it switches after you put your foot on the pedal but before the clutch releases. The lower switch is there to disable the engine start unless the clutch pedal is on the floor.

 

[Vettel-ish]

Anyone have some good pictures on this? I just bought and going to attempt thursday. Not real confident right now.

 

[drummerboy]

I don't have any. In lieu of pics, go ahead and take a look at the switch:

Depress your clutch and look up above and see the switch it was pressing while it was disengaged. Reach behind that bracket and you'll feel the connector. You can twist that to pop it out of the bracket.

I'd also go ahead and have ready a couple fuse taps, a switch, and some wire to run to the switch in order to finish the job.

 

[Vettel-ish]

Was hoping for some pics of the fuse box all done up. All good.

 

[drummerboy]

Sorry. If I can of any assurance, the instructions are very clear which fuses to tap into, and these are pretty straight forward:

 

[Vettel-ish]

Just order those and a switch. My brother inlaw is a medical engineer. I am sure he can figure it out if needed. I will give it shot on my own. Sounds easy. The directions dont make sense to me just looking at them. Need to see it in real next to the car.

 

[drummerboy]

Ah ok. Hoping I can again offer a bit of assurance, it's very straight forward. Starting with the module on the passenger floorboard:

1) Send the connectors to the driver's footwell - for this I taped them to a short rod and poked them through. I thought this would potentially pose some trouble, but it did not. It was easy to see a clear path by setting a flashlight down in the driver's footwell to illuminate that whole area and then peeking behind the center dash area from the passenger footwell. If you want the switch in the driver's side area, you'll also want to send two wires for that over.

2) Connect the two connectors to the throttle and clutch switches.

3) Connect the two wires exposed wires (I think they were orange and brown) to your fuse taps. The GT350 supplemental instructions that come with the module make it very clear which fuses you're after. Alternatively, what I would do is connect the orange wire to my switch, and the other end of the switch to the fuse the orange wire would go to.

That's basically it, now you're just left with tidying up the wires and finding an install location to your switch.

Even with all of the tidying, mounting, installing switch, and everything, it's probably a sub 1hr job I'd guess. You could in theory go ahead and mount your switch, run its wires to the passenger side, and put your fuse taps in to make the install go VERY quickly when your module arrives. The most time consuming part of it is going to be dealing with the clutch switch, but my guess is that the info about that in this thread will help out a bunch. That switch is not terribly problematic, but it certainly stands out as a bit difficult compared to how crazy simple every other step is.

 

[Vettel-ish]

Thats perfect thank you!. I will take a bunch of pics of for the next guy, this thread helped and made me buy the unit. Road america in 2 weeks.

Thanks again!

 

[drummerboy]

Awesome, can't wait to see and also hear the review from the track. Make sure to bring your laptop and cable to adjust the duration, I'm not sure it will be spot on out of the box.

 

[460Fred]

Forgive me if this has already been covered.
I’ll assume warranty issues will arise if Ford gets wind of your install.
What day the collective.
I‘ve been practicing rev matching and am pretty good at it while not braking. I really struggle with heal toe so I need this.

 

[Vettel-ish]

Forgive me if this has already been covered.
I’ll assume warranty issues will arise if Ford gets wind of your install.
What day the collective.
I‘ve been practicing rev matching and am pretty good at it while not braking. I really struggle with heal toe so I need this.

I would remove it before it goes in for any kind of service. Sounds like it comes out in like 2 min.

 

[460Fred]

I’ll need to review. I thought there was splicing of wires, can’t hide that.
I’m kind of paranoid about this kind of stuff as I told myself I’m not doing anything to jeopardize my warranty.

 

[Vettel-ish]

I’ll need to review. I thought there was splicing of wires, can’t hide that.
I’m kind of paranoid about this kind of stuff as I told myself I’m not doing anything to jeopardize my warranty.

Let us know what you come up with. I would like to know.

 

[JAJ]

I’ll need to review. I thought there was splicing of wires, can’t hide that.
I’m kind of paranoid about this kind of stuff as I told myself I’m not doing anything to jeopardize my warranty.

There is no splicing or cutting of wires required. The two main connectors - accel pedal and clutch - are "pass-through" connections. You unplug the factory connector from the device, plug it into the pass-through, plug the pass-through into the device and you're done. Removal is the same as install, only backwards.

For the wires that require a "tap" connection, use this one instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESCQ9EQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unlike many vampire taps, this one just unscrews and comes off, leaving a tiny hole in the insulation. No-one will every know...

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