Project Eos - Build Your Own Premium

[Edwin]

I purchased my base 2015 Triple Yellow Ecoboost on December 27 and have been completely obsessed with it ever since! Could not be any happier with this vehicle.

I plan on keeping this vehicle for quite a while and am trying to be patient with the mods. That is turning out to be a lot harder than I thought though.

Current Mods:

Intake:
Mishimoto Performance Intake

Exhaust:
FlowMaster Cat-Back Exhaust (Removed, For Sale)
Mishimoto Cat-Back Exhaust (Planning to purchase)

Exterior:
Big Worm Graphix GT350 Stripes, Gloss Black w/ Gloss White Pinstripes
Switchback LEDs and Side-markers
American Muscle Roof Accent Stripes (Removed)
Dipped and Glossified Pony Emblems and Mirror Caps
Dipped and Glossified 18" OEM Foundry Wheels
Dipped Base Rear Diffuser
Anchor Room Taillight, Rear Side Markers, Third Brake Light, and Reverse Light Tint

Engine Bay:
Blacked-out Coolant Reservoir and Brake Fluid Container
Hex Pattern Radiator Shroud
Redline Tuning QuickLift Elite Hood Struts

Interior:
Yellow Welt Trim
LEDGlow Million Color Interior Lighting Kit
LED Map Light Replacement
Brushed Aluminum Dash Panels

Infotainment:
Tomtop 8" screen replacement with Nav
Rockford Fosgate P300 10" Powered Sub
Sound Enhancement Mic Disabled

Future Mods:

Intercooler:
Deciding between MAP and Mishimoto

Tune:
Cobb AP with Tune+ tune

Suspension:
Steeda Sport Springs
Steeda Sway Bars

Wheels:
Niche 20" Targa or Essen

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[Edwin]

I just installed a Rockford Fosgate p300 10' powered subwoofer yesterday. I'll post some more pics with a short write-up later, because I had a hard time finding info that I needed to hook it up to the stock system.

 

[Ruby305GT]

I just installed a Rockford Fosgate p300 10' powered subwoofer yesterday. I'll post some more pics with a short write-up later, because I had a hard time finding info that I needed to hook it up to the stock system.

Man I would really appreciate some info on the stock hookup. I'm having a hard time finding it myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Edwin]

Man I would really appreciate some info on the stock hookup. I'm having a hard time finding it myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are some pictures of my setup. I'll be rewrapping that wiring above the subwoofer to look better, I just left it open for the pictures.

So there are no RCA outputs on the back of the stock headunits. So you need to either purchase a powered subwoofer with a harness that lets you tap into the rear speaker wires or buy a Line Output Converter (LOC). The LOC will allow you to splice into your speaker wires and convert their high level output to low level output (RCA). The powered sub I installed came with a harness I could use but the wires weren't longh enough to run to the speaker wires, so I purchased a LOC and used that. If you go to Amazon and search Line out converter you will see plenty of options. I went with a relatively cheap Rockford Fosgate LOC just because it was the last piece I bought and decided to keep everything one brand. It works fine and the system sounds great to me.

All of the wires you need to splice into are in the trunk. There's a 12v switched source along with both sets of rear speaker wires. They are running along the roof of the trunk near the back of the rear seats on the right side. They are wrapped in a black material that you can easily pull apart to expose the wires. You will want to expose them closer to the rear seats where they enter the trunk before they Split into a Y.

I spliced these wires with the wires from the LOC without cutting them. If you've never done that before (I hadn't) here is a pretty good article on it. http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/how-properly-splice-into-wire-without-cutting-228546/
Hopefully you can see the it the pics but the speaker wires will be the two sets of twisted wires.
White-Green is Left speaker positive
Brown-Yellow is Left speaker negative
Brown-white is Right speaker positive
Brown-Blue is Right speaker negative
The smaller gauge Blue-white wire is the 12v switched.

There is a convienently located bolt between the seats at the floor of the trunk for your ground location. Just remove the bolt and sandpaper the paint off.
The power wire can be run through a grommet in the firewall on the passenger side but I believe this means removing the front tire and wheel well cover. There are some good pics of that here on the forum. I ended up going through a grommet on the driver's side and routing it straight up and under the plastic cover at the top of the engine bay. Not an easy thing to do and probably not the best way but doesn't require taking the wheel off.
If anyone has any questions just let me know. Hope this helps someone.

 

[Ruby305GT]

Here are some pictures of my setup. I'll be rewrapping that wiring above the subwoofer to look better, I just left it open for the pictures.

So there are no RCA outputs on the back of the stock headunits. So you need to either purchase a powered subwoofer with a harness that lets you tap into the rear speaker wires or buy a Line Output Converter (LOC). The LOC will allow you to splice into your speaker wires and convert their high level output to low level output (RCA). The powered sub I installed came with a harness I could use but the wires weren't longh enough to run to the speaker wires, so I purchased a LOC and used that. If you go to Amazon and search Line out converter you will see plenty of options. I went with a relatively cheap Rockford Fosgate LOC just because it was the last piece I bought and decided to keep everything one brand. It works fine and the system sounds great to me.


All of the wires you need to splice into are in the trunk. There's a 12v switched source along with both sets of rear speaker wires. They are running along the roof of the trunk near the back of the rear seats on the right side. They are wrapped in a black material that you can easily pull apart to expose the wires. You will want to expose them closer to the rear seats where they enter the trunk before they Split into a Y.

I spliced these wires with the wires from the LOC without cutting them. If you've never done that before (I hadn't) here is a pretty good article on it. http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/how-properly-splice-into-wire-without-cutting-228546/
Hopefully you can see the it the pics but the speaker wires will be the two sets of twisted wires.
White-Green is Left speaker positive
Brown-Yellow is Left speaker negative
Brown-white is Right speaker positive
Brown-Blue is Right speaker negative
The smaller gauge Blue-white wire is the 12v switched.

There is a convienently located bolt between the seats at the floor of the trunk for your ground location. Just remove the bolt and sandpaper the paint off.
The power wire can be run through a grommet in the firewall on the passenger side but I believe this means removing the front tire and wheel well cover. There are some good pics of that here on the forum. I ended up going through a grommet on the driver's side and routing it straight up and under the plastic cover at the top of the engine bay. Not an easy thing to do and probably not the best way but doesn't require taking the wheel off.
If anyone has any questions just let me know. Hope this helps someone.

Thanks a million man! Much appreciated.

 

[Theby]

Thanks for the help!

 

[davekro]

Edwin,
Am I correct in assuming your base EB has the 4.3" screen head unit like the V6's have? If so, just wondering if you or any others with the base (non touch screen) head units have run across anyone pulling out the base head unit? I don't even have my convertible yet, but am VERY interested in if the Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX with 7" capacitive touch screen will eventually fit our (base head unit) 2015 Mustangs. It fits the 11-14, just waiting for Crutchfield, Metra, etc to develop the hardware/bezels for 2015's. NOt sure if the buttons on each side of the 4.3" screen come out easily and if the row of buttons below the screen come out and separate from the platic with the two knobs.

I'm actually waiting for the 8001NEX due out in March. My head unit research is shown here:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17935

Just trying to tap into other base stereo Mustang folks as we seem to be in the minority.

 

[davekro]

I have never had a sub in the trunk. How does it sound being there? How does the base stereo sound with this addition?
Thanks.

 

[Edwin]

I know Ecosnake had his base headunit removed for his system. I can't tell for sure if the buttons along the sides of the screen are a separate piece or not. Here is a link to his build page with pics of his headunit removed.http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12226&highlight=Ecosnake&page=4

I had a trunk sub in my last car that was a bit larger than this but honestly didn't need to be. The base system has basically no bass. This unit obviously won't alert the neighborhood but it increases the bass enough to where you can feel it in the front seats and fills the cabin. I will say that the stock speakers are lacking as well. They aren't terrible, they just aren't going to provide you with as crisp of a sound as most any aftermarket speakers will.

 

[davekro]

Thanks or the feedback on the trunk sub and link to see a head unit removed!

 

[Theby]

It's the first time I install a Subwoofer, so I have a noob doubt: Where do I plug the power cable that has to pass through to grommet in the firewall???
:doh:

 

[Edwin]

It's the first time I install a Subwoofer, so I have a noob doubt: Where do I plug the power cable that has to pass through to grommet in the firewall???
:doh:

No problem, connect one end to the positive terminal on your battery and run it the whole way to your subwoofer. The positive terminal on your battery has a pretty large post. So you probably need a larger ring than would normally come with an amp install kit, or you can make a ring with the wire itself. Just make sure you have the negative disconnected as well when you're doing this.

 

[Theby]

How did you disable the mic in the rear?

 

[Edwin]

I completely forgot to mention that. All you have to do is sit in the backseat and pull the ceiling panel down. There's only two magnets holding it up back there. You will see a little black box that's glued to the panel and directly behind that is where the wires connect. Just unplug them. It's kindof difficult to disconnect if you can't get the right angle on it. But there's a clip you push down on the right side and then pull apart.

 

[Theby]

I completely forgot to mention that. All you have to do is sit in the backseat and pull the ceiling panel down. There's only two magnets holding it up back there. You will see a little black box that's glued to the panel and directly behind that is where the wires connect. Just unplug them. It's kindof difficult to disconnect if you can't get the right angle on it. But there's a clip you push down on the right side and then pull apart.

Done, thanks

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