Procharger Stage 2 Install

[ProChargerTECH]

The clamping "force" of a threaded bolt is always greater than a slipping screw system with sheet metal. Why do you think people replace them and then no longer have issues blowing off connections. AMS points out only one aspect. Real life points to a different picture. This will be my 3rd "piped" car and wouldn't use anything other than t-bolt or constant torque t-bolt.

My personal car runs 28psi of boost, has for 6 years and has worm clamps.
I have never once lost a boost tube because of a clamp. So I will be one to always disagree with the "need" for the Tbolt. (I do run a vband on the throttle body, because it looks "cool")

A proper bead roll, and properly (not over tightened) worm clamp have no issues. The main issue is people over tighten them, and strip them. (or don't actually put them in the correct spot, fully behind the bead roll) The bead roll should be doing the work, not the bolt head.

These 2015's don't run near enough boost to justify hard core clamps.

If a person wants to run them, thats totally cool. But its a personal preference, and not a necessity.

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[MoZ]

Hey Procharger, do you have a distributer in the UK? My car turns up later this year (along with the first batch of RHD models)..

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Hey Procharger, do you have a distributer in the UK? My car turns up later this year (along with the first batch of RHD models)..

We have a few actually.
Drop [email protected] an email with your address and they can get the person nearest to you!

(our tunes don't always work on "export" cars/trucks, just a heads up)
So they will usually have to be custom tuned

 

[gqneon]

I pullied down to 4.63 and went to do some data logging. Boost gauge started to flutter at about 5500-6k at 9-10psi and it felt like the car went flat. You guessed it. So I called PC who was actually very cool about it and shipped me the retro elbow. In the interim, I test fit and installed a 3.75" x 3.5" silicone elbow and reconnected the entire inlet. Was able to put inlet on ONE-HANDED, it was awesome. Tightened everything up and going to go see if it holds at those rpm. Wish me luck. If not the Procharger piece should be here next week to go hard piped.

I hate the JDM stamp on it, but I'll fix that if it works and post links to the parts if anyone decided to try it also.

Lund had been amazing since I grabbed some patience by the way.

If rather pay him in person to do it, but this car is starting to feel great. If we can figure out the surging, man...

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[Phils15GT]

Look at all that room without the race bypass valve.

 

[gqneon]

So, I hit it again in 3rd and same fluttering. Could that be the BOV?

I think the pro flow is supposed to be good for more psi than what I've got going on, but it's interesting. Wish I had a go pro and a way to mount it or a way to watch it on the dyno to see if it's the new or old house setup or something else. No other changes but the pulley before the following started. Changed inlets still fluttering. Right around 10psi.


Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[Phils15GT]

Run it with the inlet off.

 

[gqneon]

But then my imrc line wouldn't have a vacuum source

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[Phils15GT]

I thought guys were just running with it uncapped without issue. Pretty sure that is what dude with F1 is doing. Screen on SC.

 

[Barrel]

Well the stock inlet isn't supposed to collapse, either...so...could still be the BOV. I've got a solid seal to redline until I release the throttle and I get a flutter and pressure release.

 

[gqneon]

I thought guys were just running with it uncapped without issue. Pretty sure that is what dude with F1 is doing. Screen on SC.

On the race valve or proflow

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[Phils15GT]

I'm pretty sure it was race valve.

 

[gqneon]

I'm pretty sure it was race valve.

HAHAHA ... yeah. I couldn't see signature lines on my tapatalk app so I guess now that I'm on my PC and can actually see it, it says Red Race Valve. Sorry for being simple on that one.

 

[gqneon]

Ok, so here's the deal. I bought this 90 degree silicone inlet hose. It has the proper 3.75" fitment so you can install it ONE-HANDED onto the SC inlet, then fit your worm drive clamp to torque it properly without having WW3 in your garage. The other end is 3.5" so it properly fits the metal intake tube, so you simply attach to the metal tube going to your air filter inlet tube. No cutting, no fabrication, no aggravation. I have been runnning it for two days with no issues.

It's $16. You can cover up the JDM logo on it if you want. I thought this might help some folks here who don't want to chop up a hard rubber elbow and fight it into place or use a bunch of extra clamps or couplers. If it fails, you'll be the first ones I tell.

Also a plus, you don't have to remove your bumper to retrofit this piece. I popped 3 plastic rivets out of my driver front wheel well and moved the plastic enough to get a long extension on a driver and back off the air filter. Then undid the SC inlet hose and PCV line attachment and lifted the assembly out the top. Then reached down and fished out the filter. Reassembled and test fit, then reinserted the whole assembly right back down from the top, tightened it in place, and reconnected my PCV inlet.

Simple stuff.

Good luck!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261667376847?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[z06psi]

So are you going to pulley down now that is fixed?

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