Chargedguard5.0
Well-Known Member
I believe the boostworks car was done with a remote Lund tune. They also dropped down to a 3.4 pulley which is 5 sizes smaller than the stock pulley that comes with the kit.
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We had a car come in with the exact same issue. We retuned it and put down 710whp. The issue was the tune.
Is your car a manual car? I have the same surging issue but it seems to go along with what Process said. Only happens right at the threshold between boost and vacuum.I had lund tune My car Stage 2 D1sc with the red race valve. I have the same surging problem at 2k-2500rpm Im pretty sure it has something to do with the Red Race Valve. I have sent him logs and he says "He sees alot of maf noise like Bypass surge". Im gonna continue using him Im pretty sure he knows what he is talking about.
Is your car a manual car? I have the same surging issue but it seems to go along with what Process said. Only happens right at the threshold between boost and vacuum.
Anyone have a lund procharger tune with an Auto?
You dyno or track it yet?Yes mine is a auto with lund remote tune
Boost doesn't matter on that valves rating. (Its rated in CFM of airflow)you wont need the big red unless youre goiung over 13psi
Well, lets just put it this way, in my case it's probably a combo of both. You do a lot of google searching on multiple platforms, and everyone points to saying "hey cheapo, buy the bigger bpv, and get your tune straightened out"Boost doesn't matter on that valves rating. (Its rated in CFM of airflow)
Boost = Measure of restriction
CFM = Measure of airflow
(The "boost" number could be 5psi on a BBC, and 28psi on a Honda
Yet have the same CFM airflow number. )
So you want to know how much the valve can effectively dump.
The ProFlow can keep up with anything a P-1SC-1 or D-1SC can throw at it.
However we recomend after 750 crank HP, to swap to the "race" unit.
WITH THAT being said.... related to the 2015 Mustang.
1) The "surge/buck" is NOT valve related.
2) The "surge/buck" is NOT MAF placement related.
Remember, this systems MAF and bypass is the same as the 2011-14 Stangs (which have zero driveablity issues) and have made killer power for years and years.![]()
Having the MAF in the intercooler, actually solved many problems.
(Other companies have swapped to this style as well in blow through systems)
1) clean signal
2) lots of range
We actually sell the bungs to people that build their own intercoolers, frequently.
90% of the people that buy the "Race" valve, have no reason to have it.You do a lot of google searching on multiple platforms, and everyone points to saying "hey cheapo, buy the bigger bpv, and get your tune straightened out"
You are well over the recommended 750 crank HPso this is most likely a combination of two issues, I will say this, this issue has gotten more prevalent when I swapped to a 15psi pulley.
Easy test to find out.It could be the throttle going nuts. My logs show maf back wash, well at least what my puny brain is depicting it as.
Again, this is ONLY on the 2015's.The opening of the IMRC's to constant test did not work to rectify this issue. I'm most definitely not pointing the finger as a procharger only issue, as Procharger, Vortech, and Hellion are all exhibiting the same problem.
Agree. Every shop that tuned a 2011-14 car, will be thrown for a loop with the 2015 cars. Just like every LS tuner shop, took a LONG while to get up to speed with the new LT-1 cars and trucks. (some still haven't mastered it yet)A long with it being spread across multiple tuners, and tuning software platforms. I think "we" as a community have not evolved in tuning yet to resolve this issue.
Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol90% of the people that buy the "Race" valve, have no reason

Yeah part of why I went with it. I wanted the loud BOV noise. I'm also going to make enough power that it's recommended, but it was mostly for the noise.Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol![]()
Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol![]()
There is NOTHING wrong with that reason at all.Yeah part of why I went with it. I wanted the loud BOV noise. I'm also going to make enough power that it's recommended, but it was mostly for the noise.
How bad is the surging? Can you still drive it around?Now I'm getting really confused because I just drove the car again and it is happening when the boost and vacuum meet. I was driving partial throttle through the rpm range where I'm having issues and it drove fine. Than I gave it a little more throttle maybe 30-40% and it started doing it. My car is suppose to go in the shop this week or early next week and hopefully they can figure all of this out. Hopefully a good dyno tune and 3.4 pulley and It will be where I want it to be.
Yeah. Honestly it's not that bad just a little annoying.How bad is the surging? Can you still drive it around?