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Procharger Stage 2 Install

Chargedguard5.0

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I believe the boostworks car was done with a remote Lund tune. They also dropped down to a 3.4 pulley which is 5 sizes smaller than the stock pulley that comes with the kit.
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z06psi

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Procharger, I went over the install instructions. One diagram to help with the bracket. Head on with the bolt measurement. The bottom bolt and the dotted lines are a little crossed up. Might help with some of the confusion.
 
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Phils15GT

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We had a car come in with the exact same issue. We retuned it and put down 710whp. The issue was the tune.

You had an IMRC issue? Where they wern't opening up (throwing code) or just down on power? This is a Lund remote tune that I have right now. Said same tune is working on other cars with no issue.
 
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Phils15GT

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I had lund tune My car Stage 2 D1sc with the red race valve. I have the same surging problem at 2k-2500rpm Im pretty sure it has something to do with the Red Race Valve. I have sent him logs and he says "He sees alot of maf noise like Bypass surge". Im gonna continue using him Im pretty sure he knows what he is talking about.
Is your car a manual car? I have the same surging issue but it seems to go along with what Process said. Only happens right at the threshold between boost and vacuum.


Anyone have a lund procharger tune with an Auto?
 

tevol1

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Is your car a manual car? I have the same surging issue but it seems to go along with what Process said. Only happens right at the threshold between boost and vacuum.


Anyone have a lund procharger tune with an Auto?


Yes mine is a auto with lund remote tune
 

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ProChargerTECH

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you wont need the big red unless youre goiung over 13psi
Boost doesn't matter on that valves rating. (Its rated in CFM of airflow)
Boost = Measure of restriction
CFM = Measure of airflow

(The "boost" number could be 5psi on a BBC, and 28psi on a Honda
Yet have the same CFM airflow number. )


So you want to know how much the valve can effectively dump.
The ProFlow can keep up with anything a P-1SC-1 or D-1SC can throw at it.

However we recomend after 750 crank HP, to swap to the "race" unit.


WITH THAT being said.... related to the 2015 Mustang.
1) The "surge/buck" is NOT valve related.
2) The "surge/buck" is NOT MAF placement related.

Remember, this systems MAF and bypass is the same as the 2011-14 Stangs (which have zero driveablity issues) and have made killer power for years and years. :)

Having the MAF in the intercooler, actually solved many problems.
(Other companies have swapped to this style as well in blow through systems)

1) clean signal
2) lots of range

We actually sell the bungs to people that build their own intercoolers, frequently.
 

Process

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Boost doesn't matter on that valves rating. (Its rated in CFM of airflow)
Boost = Measure of restriction
CFM = Measure of airflow

(The "boost" number could be 5psi on a BBC, and 28psi on a Honda
Yet have the same CFM airflow number. )


So you want to know how much the valve can effectively dump.
The ProFlow can keep up with anything a P-1SC-1 or D-1SC can throw at it.

However we recomend after 750 crank HP, to swap to the "race" unit.


WITH THAT being said.... related to the 2015 Mustang.
1) The "surge/buck" is NOT valve related.
2) The "surge/buck" is NOT MAF placement related.

Remember, this systems MAF and bypass is the same as the 2011-14 Stangs (which have zero driveablity issues) and have made killer power for years and years. :)

Having the MAF in the intercooler, actually solved many problems.
(Other companies have swapped to this style as well in blow through systems)

1) clean signal
2) lots of range

We actually sell the bungs to people that build their own intercoolers, frequently.
Well, lets just put it this way, in my case it's probably a combo of both. You do a lot of google searching on multiple platforms, and everyone points to saying "hey cheapo, buy the bigger bpv, and get your tune straightened out"

so this is most likely a combination of two issues, I will say this, this issue has gotten more prevalent when I swapped to a 15psi pulley.

Yes, well aware boost is a measurement of restriction, but more boost = more air in this case. I am hearing the valve leak some but not always when this bucking happens. It could be the throttle going nuts. My logs show maf back wash, well at least what my puny brain is depicting it as.

The opening of the IMRC's to constant test did not work to rectify this issue. I'm most definitely not pointing the finger as a procharger only issue, as Procharger, Vortech, and Hellion are all exhibiting the same problem. A long with it being spread across multiple tuners, and tuning software platforms. I think "we" as a community have not evolved in tuning yet to resolve this issue.

Beefcake on the other hand states his car drives like a dream, and so does Sam. I've driven a Lund tuned procharged car, and it showed a similar issue. So I'm tail chasing.
 

ProChargerTECH

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You do a lot of google searching on multiple platforms, and everyone points to saying "hey cheapo, buy the bigger bpv, and get your tune straightened out"
90% of the people that buy the "Race" valve, have no reason to have it.
Other then the "internet" told them to get it.

so this is most likely a combination of two issues, I will say this, this issue has gotten more prevalent when I swapped to a 15psi pulley.
You are well over the recommended 750 crank HP
So yes, you should have the larger valve.
However that is due to the possibility of surging the blower.

It could be the throttle going nuts. My logs show maf back wash, well at least what my puny brain is depicting it as.
Easy test to find out.
Take a chuck of tube, cut a 2" hole in it. (the size of a race valve)
And install that tube where you currently have the current tube.
Obviously you have a massive boost leak, so power will be down.
BUT, you can see if your "wash" stays there.


The opening of the IMRC's to constant test did not work to rectify this issue. I'm most definitely not pointing the finger as a procharger only issue, as Procharger, Vortech, and Hellion are all exhibiting the same problem.
Again, this is ONLY on the 2015's.

As stated, the 2011-14 Stangs have the MAF in the same location.
Also run the same valve.

No issues. (which prettttttty much narrows it down)
Its a 2015 tune issue, not a hardware issue.



*we also run the MAF in the intercooler on other platforms up to blowers the size of the F-1X, and HP in the range of 1,300+ and climbing by the day, no issues. People can't believe how clean the signal is on power levels that high.

A long with it being spread across multiple tuners, and tuning software platforms. I think "we" as a community have not evolved in tuning yet to resolve this issue.
Agree. Every shop that tuned a 2011-14 car, will be thrown for a loop with the 2015 cars. Just like every LS tuner shop, took a LONG while to get up to speed with the new LT-1 cars and trucks. (some still haven't mastered it yet)
 

Nemesys

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90% of the people that buy the "Race" valve, have no reason
Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol :ninja:
 

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Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol :ninja:
Yeah part of why I went with it. I wanted the loud BOV noise. I'm also going to make enough power that it's recommended, but it was mostly for the noise.
 

ProChargerTECH

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Im not going to lie. My reason I bought is because of how bad ass it sounds. Call me a ricer, I dont care lol :ninja:
Yeah part of why I went with it. I wanted the loud BOV noise. I'm also going to make enough power that it's recommended, but it was mostly for the noise.
There is NOTHING wrong with that reason at all. :)

We just don't like when people feel they "need" it. ;)
Wanting is different then needing. :)

The WHOOOOOOSH, is pretty wicked. :)
 

Chargedguard5.0

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Now I'm getting really confused because I just drove the car again and it is happening when the boost and vacuum meet. I was driving partial throttle through the rpm range where I'm having issues and it drove fine. Than I gave it a little more throttle maybe 30-40% and it started doing it. My car is suppose to go in the shop this week or early next week and hopefully they can figure all of this out. Hopefully a good dyno tune and 3.4 pulley and It will be where I want it to be.
 

Chummel

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Now I'm getting really confused because I just drove the car again and it is happening when the boost and vacuum meet. I was driving partial throttle through the rpm range where I'm having issues and it drove fine. Than I gave it a little more throttle maybe 30-40% and it started doing it. My car is suppose to go in the shop this week or early next week and hopefully they can figure all of this out. Hopefully a good dyno tune and 3.4 pulley and It will be where I want it to be.
How bad is the surging? Can you still drive it around?
 
 








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