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Procharger Stage 2 Install

Process

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Had to submit a trouble ticket with Procharger. Getting this noise on cold starts. Havent noticed any weird wear or tear on the belt. But I am concerned about it.


Misaligned pulley or a fraying belt. Try spraying water on the belt upon start up and see if it goes away.

This was has always been a centri blower issue.


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Nemesys

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Misaligned pulley or a fraying belt. Try spraying water on the belt upon start up and see if it goes away.

This was has always been a centri blower issue.


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Spraying water on it did make it stop, belt looks fine though?
 

Process

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Spraying water on it did make it stop, belt looks fine though?
If it comes back, looks like you have a misalignment. Also can be a tension issue.
 

Nemesys

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If it comes back, looks like you have a misalignment. Also can be a tension issue.
Yeah it did come back after a few minutes of sitting. Without a laser , how can I check? Easy way to tighten the tensioner?
 

Nemesys

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Hmm noise has gone away. I let it sit for about 30 minutes, and its still gone. So who knows.
 

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ProChargerTECH

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Had to submit a trouble ticket with Procharger. Getting this noise on cold starts. Havent noticed any weird wear or tear on the belt. But I am concerned about it.


#1) Make sure belt isn't rubbing against the edge of ANY pulley.

#2) Sometimes the belt gets debris stuck to it, and causes plenty of sounds

#3) After there is a decent amount of miles on the belt, its a good idea to re-tension it, to make sure the tensioner isn't moving excessively.
 

Chummel

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Pretty awesome thing just happened to me when i did the 500 mile oil change... Drained the oil put the new oil in, went to check the level with the dip stick and when I pulled it back out the plastic max/min portion was gone. Just some frayed metal wire. Called procharger and the recommended pulling the drain plug to flush it out, no luck. Now the "solution" is to take they head unit off, shipped it into procharger, and then get it back and reinstall it. The best part is I get to pay another shop, who knows how much money, to reinstall my head unit.

Not very happy...
 

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That sucks major balls.
 

gqneon

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Geez. That blows. Hope that doesn't happen to me. My Procharger oil at 500 miles had some sparkly metal goodness to it, glad they have is change it so early. I'm curious how change two goes at 5k more miles. Which is like 3k miles from now. Hopefully I still have a plastic min max piece.

I'm surprised that with the drain line, it doesn't require another ounce or so of oil.

I think I'm switching to 0-30 or 0-40 AMSOIL at the same time. I'm wondering if that's OK with the oil squirt holes and oil galleys etc. I'm guessing Ford chose 5-20 for good reasons, but maybe even a 5-20 AMSOIL or royal purple would be better than Ford stock.

Also contemplating royal purple synchromax trans fluid . I should probably post the last half of this post in the oil section, assuming there is one.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!
 

ProChargerTECH

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Pretty awesome thing just happened to me when i did the 500 mile oil change... Drained the oil put the new oil in, went to check the level with the dip stick and when I pulled it back out the plastic max/min portion was gone. Just some frayed metal wire. Called procharger and the recommended pulling the drain plug to flush it out, no luck. Now the "solution" is to take they head unit off, shipped it into procharger, and then get it back and reinstall it. The best part is I get to pay another shop, who knows how much money, to reinstall my head unit.

Not very happy...
The headunit is held on with just a few bolts.
VERY simple to install, 5-10min at max.

If you have a simple basic tool set that fits in a trunk, you will have everything you need. (2) allens, couple wrenches (for tensioner) and flat blade for the hoses.

Crazy sorry to hear about such an odd issue. However you can easily remove and install the headunit, and if you need assistance we can help via the phone. (or email install instructions if you don't have them)

However, if it does go to a shop just make sure they don't over charge.


Geez. That blows. Hope that doesn't happen to me. My Procharger oil at 500 miles had some sparkly metal goodness to it, glad they have is change it so early. I'm curious how change two goes at 5k more miles. Which is like 3k miles from now. Hopefully I still have a plastic min max piece.
Out of thousands and thousands of head units sold, since becoming self contained, to hear about the plastic coming off is rare. Usually the customer states the pulled it out really fast (and it gets snagged) and popped off.

Your chances are insanely low, you will have issues.



I'm surprised that with the drain line, it doesn't require another ounce or so of oil.
There is a good margin of min to full, just like your car.
The line hardly holds a measurable amount. (nothing near an ounce)

I think I'm switching to 0-30 or 0-40 AMSOIL at the same time. I'm wondering if that's OK with the oil squirt holes and oil galleys etc. I'm guessing Ford chose 5-20 for good reasons, but maybe even a 5-20 AMSOIL or royal purple would be better than Ford stock.

Also contemplating royal purple synchromax trans fluid . I should probably post the last half of this post in the oil section, assuming there is one.
I would personally HIGHLY advise against different oils, due to how it messes up the drain back features by the bearings. If the oil is to thick, it will cause bearing issues (same as in an engine) The oil we run is a high speed gearbox specific oil that is 0 weight, for extreme duty.

(About 10 years ago, I experimented personally with different oils, just to see how it would effect the sound of the blower I had, I can say that it didn't end well)
 

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gqneon

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The headunit is held on with just a few bolts.
VERY simple to install, 5-10min at max.

If you have a simple basic tool set that fits in a trunk, you will have everything you need. (2) allens, couple wrenches (for tensioner) and flat blade for the hoses.

Crazy sorry to hear about such an odd issue. However you can easily remove and install the headunit, and if you need assistance we can help via the phone. (or email install instructions if you don't have them)

However, if it does go to a shop just make sure they don't over charge.




Out of thousands and thousands of head units sold, since becoming self contained, to hear about the plastic coming off is rare. Usually the customer states the pulled it out really fast (and it gets snagged) and popped off.

Your chances are insanely low, you will have issues.





There is a good margin of min to full, just like your car.
The line hardly holds a measurable amount. (nothing near an ounce)



I would personally HIGHLY advise against different oils, due to how it messes up the drain back features by the bearings. If the oil is to thick, it will cause bearing issues (same as in an engine) The oil we run is a high speed gearbox specific oil that is 0 weight, for extreme duty.

(About 10 years ago, I experimented personally with different oils, just to see how it would effect the sound of the blower I had, I can say that it didn't end well)
Oh, I meant engine oil, not the SC oil. Unless that's what you meant, too.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!
 

Chummel

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Plastic piece out. I need a new dipstick though.
 

gqneon

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Plastic piece out. I need a new dipstick though.
Good I'm glad you fished it out of there. That beats waiting on it to get there, get fixed, and get back and not have a car in the interim.
 

Process

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I was missing the drain line too.

I also run amsoil signature 0w40


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