Procharger HO kit D1 + Lund tune Dyno results

[BadGTR]

You are running the bigger D1 and you don't know what your boost is? You also are not running a BAP? Not sure why you would go against what seems to be standard on most of the supercharger setups. A higher flowing injector still needs the pump to push the fuel into. Get a BAP on there at minimum. Now that you fixed the spark blowout, chances are you are making even more boost up top and more power.

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[Toothless]

You are running the bigger D1 and you don't know what your boost is? You also are not running a BAP? Not sure why you would go against what seems to be standard on most of the supercharger setups. A higher flowing injector still needs the pump to push the fuel into. Get a BAP on there at minimum. Now that you fixed the spark blowout, chances are you are making even more boost up top and more power.

I did get a boost gauge. Running 8 to 9 psi at redline of about 7200 rpm. I am.running the same injectors that Procharger uses in there stage 2 kit, which also does not run a BAP. It runs about 8 to 9 psi of manilfold pressure on the P1SC. Should be similar air flow just might be slightly cooler with the D1. Not many people opt for the D1 on the stage 1 tuner kit. I thought it would be a nice $230 upgrade.

You don't have to be a follower you can think outside the box (norm). The injectors are good for the power and when I do raise boost, I'll go with the BAP. But at 615 whp from what I've been told it's not needed. Beside fuel pressure normally falls at higher rpm cause fuel pump can't keep up because duty cycle gets high. My car is richer on the logs at high rpm, runs lean in the 4k to 5500 rpm range.

For my power goals, I may have wasted $230, but I was thinking that it's better safe than sorry.

Brian

 

[BadGTR]

Can you get the much more conservative tune that comes with the Procharger Kit? See how she responds to that?

 

[Toothless]

Can you get the much more conservative tune that comes with the Procharger Kit? See how she responds to that?

I thought about that. I don't think they would give me that canned tune. But it would be nice to try if they would.

 

[MotorJoe]

Sounds like there could be defective inyector, installation or it's electronic control.

I hope you find it soon enough, good luck.

 

[dubster99]

Can you log fuel pump and injector duty cycles? Seems to me like something is going on. Even though not running a BAP is "outside the box" doesn't mean it's a good idea. For a couple hundred bucks you can have peace of mind. As stated earlier, keep an eye on your fuel pressure dropping on you.

 

[Toothless]

Can you log fuel pump and injector duty cycles? Seems to me like something is going on. Even though not running a BAP is "outside the box" doesn't mean it's a good idea. For a couple hundred bucks you can have peace of mind. As stated earlier, keep an eye on your fuel pressure dropping on you.

I can, once I get the go ahead to go WOT again. Was told not to do that until we figure out whats going on.

I don't believe fuel pressure is going down because I get richer at the high end. It goes 12.2 range up to about 5k rpm, then richens up to 11.9 to 11.7 range up top.

If the fuel pump cant keep up, the fuel pressure will fall off up top as the duty cycle gets high (as they have less time to open and close). I should have plenty of fuel pump under 5k rpm. At higher RPM, it is harder for the fuel pump to maintain pressure at very high duty cycles. Think of trying to build pressure in a water hose with an open end. That is what its like with very high duty cycles. This is not what APPEARs is happening.

I will set up the Nguage and do some logs once I get the okay again.

Just got an email from tuner, and he wants to verify we have the right injector data in the tune. As I am not running the 47 lb injectors, I am running the 52 lbs injectors. Sent him the data, and waiting on what to do next.

The BAP will be coming soon, if needed. Got these other issues to figure out as well as the odd Lean trend. The JMS BAP is $450 new. I will never splice into a fuel pump voltage wire again. Im too big to be hanging upside down in a trunk. :rant:

I tried to buy a barely used JMS BAP for $310 that someone was selling but missed it. Still looking for one.

 

[Barrel]

I might be able to hook you up with my JMS once it's out of the car if you're interested.

 

[Poppacapp]

Brian,

We can just put your kit on my car for a year or so and I will thoroughly test it out for you, and get the bugs works out. Deal? This weekend?

 

[dubster99]

I can, once I get the go ahead to go WOT again. Was told not to do that until we figure out whats going on.

I don't believe fuel pressure is going down because I get richer at the high end. It goes 12.2 range up to about 5k rpm, then richens up to 11.9 to 11.7 range up top.

If the fuel pump cant keep up, the fuel pressure will fall off up top as the duty cycle gets high (as they have less time to open and close). I should have plenty of fuel pump under 5k rpm. At higher RPM, it is harder for the fuel pump to maintain pressure at very high duty cycles. Think of trying to build pressure in a water hose with an open end. That is what its like with very high duty cycles. This is not what APPEARs is happening.

I will set up the Nguage and do some logs once I get the okay again.

Just got an email from tuner, and he wants to verify we have the right injector data in the tune. As I am not running the 47 lb injectors, I am running the 52 lbs injectors. Sent him the data, and waiting on what to do next.

The BAP will be coming soon, if needed. Got these other issues to figure out as well as the odd Lean trend. The JMS BAP is $450 new. I will never splice into a fuel pump voltage wire again. Im too big to be hanging upside down in a trunk. :rant:

I tried to buy a barely used JMS BAP for $310 that someone was selling but missed it. Still looking for one.

The fact that they want to verify injector data worries me. That's something that should be triple checked if needed, even before the tune gets sent to you. Wow. Sounds like they are searching because they don't have answers for what's going on in their tune.

 

[Toothless]

Barrell: Let me know.

PoppaCapp: NO

I've been looking at the logs and its definitely not a fuel pump problem. The Long Term fuel trims are at 0.75 at WOT during the dyno runs, and the last logs I sent them. The Short terms trims are going above 1.00 starting at 2700 RPM up to 7200 RPM. With it trending upwards to 1.172 by 7200 RPM.

So in other words, the LT is pulling out 25% fuel from nominal based on integrating the Short Term fuel trims. Then the Short terms are adding back in from 0 to 17.2%. So the net fuel trim from STFT x LTFT is less than 1. So the computer is taking out fuel when in Closed Loop at WOT. The question is, why is the LTFT going to .75%.

Something seems hosed up. It doesn't seem like an injector scaling issue. The last datalog before the dyno run, when I was given the all clear by Lund, the LT and ST fuel trims looked great. Fast forward another week and then I do to the dyno and the logs look strange from a fuel controls standpoint. The car made good power and ran okay, but things are getting worse. Its getting lean, but the controls and sensors on the car are doing it.

Here is a graph of the a/f ratio from the last datalog on the road. AF bank 1 and AF bank 2 are graphed by RPM.

 

[dubster99]

How does the timing look? Knock? Something fishy is going on here. Have you tried resetting the ecu and letting it learn again?

 

[Toothless]

Timing is all negative values. So it's adding back timing. I think -1 is the highest it gets. I don't think it's unsafe now, but tge fuel control is not working correctly now. It seems to me its either the controls themselves, feedback sensor to the control or a mechanical leak of some sort that doesn't affect power.

The .75 LT fuel trim could be a leak after the MAF sensor. You've only got one silicone reducer coupling on intercooler outlet, a solid pipe, a thick connector hose, another hard pipe and a silicone elbow connection to throttle body. All those clamps are tight tight tight.

To me something seems fishy too. Partial throttle low boost drivability is getting worse too.

I need a fix soon.

 

[Toothless]

Well. Found out injectors where different than what they tuned for. Got a new base tune for correct injectors. Going to do idle and neutral revs dataloging with new base file.

Not 100% sure this is the whole problem, but might explain some of the .75 LT fuel trims.

They had the injectors in the mods list. Just must have taken it for granted if it's not the ID1000's it was the standard Ford Racing ones.

The air fuel is much more steady as I sit here in the car doing my idle datalog.

 

[dubster99]

Wow. You'd think they could figure that one out before they sent you the tune. That's pretty bad.

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