Procharged 5.0 Milky Coolant

[BlackandBlue]

UPDATE: Shop called me yesterday and confirmed it was the Oil Cooler. Compression test came back good. No coolant/oil mixed in the engine.

Quoted me $1034 to change the oil cooler out with new feed/return lines, do a flush, and labor for the diagnostics work. Apparently the Oil cooler and lines costs $380 from Ford.
Phew....got lucky this time around.

My big question is....how did the oil cooler fail with only 5000 miles on the car? I've never heard of these failing on the Coyotes.
Could it have something to do with me being boosted or something in my tune? I am leaning against this and am assuming it was just a bad piece to begin with.

Appreciate everyones helps.

They do just fail. Like any mass produced part every XXXX is going to fail.

Now the real question is if you are at factory RPM would the engine be covered under warranty since your modifications had zero to do with the failure?

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[Roushblown5.0]

They do just fail. Like any mass produced part every XXXX is going to fail.

Now the real question is if you are at factory RPM would the engine be covered under warranty since your modifications had zero to do with the failure?

I live in the Metro Detroit area and use to work at Ford as an Engineer ....i'm sure I can get someone to approve it as Warranty work if I wanted to...but we have a few weeks of good weather here in Michigan and I just want to drive the car!! Will bite the bullet on this one I guess.

But yes, rev limiter is set at 7550 and I never bounce off of it let alone even shift there most of the time.

 

[gimmie11s]

Oil cooler was my bet. Nice to hear.

Fill it with fresh fluids and let her rip.

 

[gimmie11s]

I should also add, the oil cooler is $52, not sure on the lines, but I doubt it all adds up to $380.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-oil-cooler-fr3z6a642a?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1vaWwtY29vbGVyJmw9MSZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9Zm9yZCZvPW11c3RhbmcmeT0yMDE4JnQ9Z3QmZT01LTBsLXY4LWdhcw==

I don't know that I'd replace the lines anyway assuming they are not torn or damaged. Flush them out and run them.

 

[Firsttexan]

Take the emotion out of your responses and answer the question.

My question was simply: "What does antifreeze do to them"?

You haven't answered that.

Dilutes the oil reducing friction resistance. Causing scoring of the bearing and crank ,rod surfaces.

 

[Unas2k5]

I live in the Metro Detroit area and use to work at Ford as an Engineer ....i'm sure I can get someone to approve it as Warranty work if I wanted to...but we have a few weeks of good weather here in Michigan and I just want to drive the car!! Will bite the bullet on this one I guess.

But yes, rev limiter is set at 7550 and I never bounce off of it let alone even shift there most of the time.

Michigan here too. My Lund tuned ProCharged Mustang blew. Its at Brenspeed in Indiana Im getting a new built motor. You think we only have a couple more weeks of this weather ? Lol I hope not! Who tuned your car?

 

[Cobra Jet]

Those Ford factory style oil to water coolant oil coolers are garbage, they have been since the SVO era.... The o-rings can fail as well as the block to cooler adapter.

I would ditch the factory style oil cooler completely it and go with a "real" reliable oil to air cooler setup, either the stacked plate design or the tube/fin design. Setrab makes a nice oil to air cooler, as well as a few other well known in the industry. You can even get these units with mounted electric fans....

If you're using the car for track events (drag racing, road racing or auto cross) and pushing power either N/A or forced induction (turbo/supercharger), using an oil to air engine cooler is a very WISE investment over the craptastic factory oil to water design... especially if you value your engine and the $$$ wrapped up in "going faster".

 

[19VelocityBlueGt]

Those Ford factory style oil to water coolant oil coolers are garbage, they have been since the SVO era.... The o-rings can fail as well as the block to cooler adapter.

I would ditch the factory style oil cooler completely it and go with a "real" reliable oil to air cooler setup, either the stacked plate design or the tube/fin design. Setrab makes a nice oil to air cooler, as well as a few other well known in the industry. You can even get these units with mounted electric fans....

If you're using the car for track events (drag racing, road racing or auto cross) and pushing power either N/A or forced induction (turbo/supercharger), using an oil to air engine cooler is a very WISE investment over the craptastic factory oil to water design... especially if you value your engine and the $$$ wrapped up in "going faster".

For

Those Ford factory style oil to water coolant oil coolers are garbage, they have been since the SVO era.... The o-rings can fail as well as the block to cooler adapter.

I would ditch the factory style oil cooler completely it and go with a "real" reliable oil to air cooler setup, either the stacked plate design or the tube/fin design. Setrab makes a nice oil to air cooler, as well as a few other well known in the industry. You can even get these units with mounted electric fans....

If you're using the car for track events (drag racing, road racing or auto cross) and pushing power either N/A or forced induction (turbo/supercharger), using an oil to air engine cooler is a very WISE investment over the craptastic factory oil to water design... especially if you value your engine and the $$$ wrapped up in "going faster".

Yes I would do the same. Especially if I was quoted over $1,000 to fix it. He could have got the best air/water cooler and less of a problem. I think this is one of the only posts I’ve saw about the us oil cooler failing. As ford Knew the issue and fixed it with a better/updated cooler?

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