PP2 OWNER EXPERIENCES - RAVES/QUIRKS

[TicTocTach]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282773948669

There is an aftermarket option on ePay for $260-300... maybe pull the original and mount this one for driving around? No personal experience, but it’s not a high-tech piece...

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[foxcoupefan]

foxcoupefan, you have pics of your car?
Be interested to see the ride height and what other suspension mods you did, springs, etc.?
I have a plan, but would be interested to see whats working for others.
Also, you have a plan for the rear diff cooler?

Everything I have done so far I did within two weeks of owning the car; yes I have an issue. Seems like It was up on jack stands in our garage more than it has been on the ground. I got the car about a month and a half ago as a present from my wife. She ordered it for me as she knew exactly what I wanted. This is my 8th Mustang and my favorite besides my 65 T/a SVRA prepped Coupe. The new S550 is such a great car. I may have mentioned before, but I really have not liked the Mustang since the Fox Bodies. I have owned five Foxs and still have a soft spot for those as well.

I will run more camber next year when it is ready for the track (3.4 to 4) As of right now I am running 2 degrees front and 1.6 rear with Maximum Motorsports camber/caster plates. Springs are FP. I have Cortex racing monoball kit not installed, BMR IRS cradle lockout, ARP long studs and FP open lugnuts, adj swaybar end links. So far that's it for suspension as the car is so good already and would have been better stock than I can drive. However, I can't leave anything alone.

I have some other bits like MGW shifter, dual catch cans, sound tube delete and a bunch of other small items installed as well but nothing out of the ordinary.

Yes, the FTB rear diff cooler will be on in the next few months. Would love a full Watson cage and to tear out all the carpet, headliner etc, but a 4pt and rear seat delete will be the way I go for a year or so. Race style fixed back seats, 6pnts, some more functional aero and more suspension hopefully prior to next spring. The car will be trailered in an in enclosed trailer, and street use may be 500miles a year so I am not too concerned about streetability. Unfortunately I would order up another 5k to 10k worth of performance parts today, but the wife would put the kabosh on that. LOL.

It's really an awesome car and so good stock. It truly does look amazing in person. The huge tires and splitter really separate it from other GTs. I want a set of 18in track wheels, but I love the looks of the factory wheels so much. I have seen all the reps out there and for some reason they just don't look as good to me.

 

[bozzy]

It's really an awesome car and so good stock. It truly does look amazing in person. The huge tires and splitter really separate it from other GTs. I want a set of 18in track wheels, but I love the looks of the factory wheels so much. I have seen all the reps out there and for some reason they just don't look as good to me.

Man that white sure looks good.... Makes me second guess my Magnetic color choice on my order...

 

[fkscreennames]

Thanks for the kind words. As far as the warranty...all is good. I went with the Roush because it was the only "power adder" that came with a warranty. I also DD my car and I needed "Nad Coolers" for our hot and humid summers her in the Sunshine state. Regarding the oil separator, I spoke to Roush and they mentioned they did not see a need for one. However, as soon as I find one that works with the Roush I will probably install one. Again, thanks for the kind words. Take care.

I can’t even imagine how absurd a PP2 Mustang with a supercharger is. Super jealous.

 

[bozzy]

On these PP2's Ford is pretty vague about what they upgraded suspension wise. I'm trying to figure out what components remain the same as the stock GT and if those components are worth upgrading...

So my question is, what suspension components on these cars are "must-address" issues? Assuming my priorities are overall handling/cornering and of course wheel hop. Traction is paramount, I wanna stick to the road whether I'm going in a straight line or tackling winding mountain roads...

Thoughts? Or perhaps a shopping list? lol.

 

[foxcoupefan]

On these PP2's Ford is pretty vague about what they upgraded suspension wise. I'm trying to figure out what components remain the same as the stock GT and if those components are worth upgrading...

So my question is, what suspension components on these cars are "must-address" issues? Assuming my priorities are overall handling/cornering and of course wheel hop. Traction is paramount, I wanna stick to the road whether I'm going in a straight line or tackling winding mountain roads...

Thoughts? Or perhaps a shopping list? lol.

All the major components like sway bars, springs, wheels/tires, front hub and knuckle assemblies, MagneRide/EPAS/Stability Control/ABS/ tuning settings, are all upgraded even from the higher performance PP1 car. The car handles extremely well (close to or on par with a GT350R). The car completely stock is far better than my capabilities will ever be. However, it's always fun to hop stuff up and I will continue to keep upgrading my car to my liking.

IRS cradle lock out and more camber would be the first things to do and you would have a fine track machine. Maybe exhaust wrap and fluid change in the diff if you find the rear end heating up. If you continue having IRS overheating issues, a FTB diff cooler which is on my current short list of items to be added to completely eliminate any overheating diff issues.

All the other items would just be fine tuning. I have not experienced any wheel hop ever. Even when I was using the car without the IRS lockout and some pretty good corner carving it wasn't an issue; I live where twisty mountain roads are plentiful too. I did springs because I wanted it slightly stiffer ride and lower center of gravity. Plus it looks cool. haha. The CC plates and adding in some more camber really dialed in the handling. I am only running 2 degrees front and 1.6 in the rear but I will move that closer to 3.5 front and 2 late this year when I am closer to putting it on the track. My car will be trailered to events and used only locally on warm sunny days on the street, so radical camber is not an issue for me.

Good luck.

 

[Lightning Struck]

I really wish this was factory. My sc2's cracked at 3k miles and Michelin gave me a bunch off a new set of PS4s.. 305's on the front, 325's on the rear at stock height for the time being.

 

[Lightning Struck]

I haven't done pressures yet, I don't like how the fronts look almost flat.

 

[foxcoupefan]

I really wish this was factory. My sc2's cracked at 3k miles and Michelin gave me a bunch off a new set of PS4s.. 305's on the front, 325's on the rear at stock height for the time being.

Hmm, I wonder why they cracked. As long as people are not driving them or moving the car under 35 degrees or so there hasn't been many problems with the Sport Cups. I am on the Sport Cups but the car will not go outside if it is below 40. Hell, it rarely goes outside. hahaha.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

All the major components like sway bars, springs, wheels/tires, front hub and knuckle assemblies, MagneRide/EPAS/Stability Control/ABS/ tuning settings, are all upgraded even from the higher performance PP1 car. The car handles extremely well (close to or on par with a GT350R). The car completely stock is far better than my capabilities will ever be. However, it's always fun to hop stuff up and I will continue to keep upgrading my car to my liking.

IRS cradle lock out and more camber would be the first things to do and you would have a fine track machine. Maybe exhaust wrap and fluid change in the diff if you find the rear end heating up. If you continue having IRS overheating issues, a FTB diff cooler which is on my current short list of items to be added to completely eliminate any overheating diff issues.

All the other items would just be fine tuning. I have not experienced any wheel hop ever. Even when I was using the car without the IRS lockout and some pretty good corner carving it wasn't an issue; I live where twisty mountain roads are plentiful too. I did springs because I wanted it slightly stiffer ride and lower center of gravity. Plus it looks cool. haha. The CC plates and adding in some more camber really dialed in the handling. I am only running 2 degrees front and 1.6 in the rear but I will move that closer to 3.5 front and 2 late this year when I am closer to putting it on the track. My car will be trailered to events and used only locally on warm sunny days on the street, so radical camber is not an issue for me.

Good luck.

try this. I have it on my car and love it.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

try this. I have it on my car and love it.

all my attachment did not come through sorry full tilt booge diff cooler

 

[Ron]

The CC plates & adding in some more camber really dialed in the handling. I am only running 2.0 degrees (F) & 1.6 degrees (R), but I will move that closer to 3.5 (F) & 2.0 (R) ... when I am closer to putting it on the track. My car will be trailered to events & used only locally on warm sunny days on the street, so radical camber is not an issue for me.

"Radical camber" WILL be an issue for you. The S550 is an extremely sophisticated chassis unlike any previous Mustang & does not require an extreme camber number. Track (camber) specs for the GT350R are less than 2.0 degrees. Any "unused" camber will result in reduced speeds thru the corners & increased braking distances due to lack of rubber on the ground. Remember ... brakes only stop the tires, but tires stop the car. A nice (as in NOT cheap) tire pyrometer will be your best friend on track day. Also, don't attempt to take your own temps (or pressures). By the time you stop the car (preferably in the hot pits), exit the vehicle & begin taking tire temps/pressures, they will be virtually useless pieces of information. BTW, take temps 1st as that number will fall quicker than tire pressure. Other than that, good luck & have fun.

 

[bozzy]

"Radical camber" WILL be an issue for you. The S550 is an extremely sophisticated chassis unlike any previous Mustang & does not require an extreme camber number. Track (camber) specs for the GT350R are less than 2.0 degrees. Any "unused" camber will result in reduced speeds thru the corners & increased braking distances due to lack of rubber on the ground. Remember ... brakes only stop the tires, but tires stop the car. A nice (as in NOT cheap) tire pyrometer will be your best friend on track day. Also, don't attempt to take your own temps (or pressures). By the time you stop the car (preferably in the hot pits), exit the vehicle & begin taking tire temps/pressures, they will be virtually useless pieces of information. BTW, take temps 1st as that number will fall quicker than tire pressure. Other than that, good luck & have fun.

Please excuse my ignorance on this subject. But are you saying that camber plates are over kill for these cars?

 

[DLW]

Some of the really fast aggressive GT350 and GT350R guys are running their camber in the 3.5 deg. area, depending on the track. I'm sure that is not for everyone.
Probably a good idea to baseline your car before making adjustments and Ron is right, the tire pyrometer can tell you if more camber is needed. And obviously if the outside tire is gone much sooner than the rest of the tire.

 

[Schwerin]

All the major components like sway bars, springs, wheels/tires, front hub and knuckle assemblies, MagneRide/EPAS/Stability Control/ABS/ tuning settings, are all upgraded even from the higher performance PP1 car. The car handles extremely well (close to or on par with a GT350R). The car completely stock is far better than my capabilities will ever be. However, it's always fun to hop stuff up and I will continue to keep upgrading my car to my liking.

IRS cradle lock out and more camber would be the first things to do and you would have a fine track machine. Maybe exhaust wrap and fluid change in the diff if you find the rear end heating up. If you continue having IRS overheating issues, a FTB diff cooler which is on my current short list of items to be added to completely eliminate any overheating diff issues.

All the other items would just be fine tuning. I have not experienced any wheel hop ever. Even when I was using the car without the IRS lockout and some pretty good corner carving it wasn't an issue; I live where twisty mountain roads are plentiful too. I did springs because I wanted it slightly stiffer ride and lower center of gravity. Plus it looks cool. haha. The CC plates and adding in some more camber really dialed in the handling. I am only running 2 degrees front and 1.6 in the rear but I will move that closer to 3.5 front and 2 late this year when I am closer to putting it on the track. My car will be trailered to events and used only locally on warm sunny days on the street, so radical camber is not an issue for me.

Good luck.

I keep reading this but others say the hubs/knuckles are the same. I also can't find any part numbers that are different regarding EPAS/Stability or ABS control, so if parts related to that die how would you get them fixed? Really all of this should be able to get ordered from a dealer easily, and slapped(not so easily) onto any magneride car.

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