moose13
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi all, dropping this in the general forums because not really sure if it fit in the tech or builds section. If this is incorrect, feel free to berate me to your hearts desire!
After much deliberation (and the recent EPA shenanigans with the big tuning shops) I decided to get the Ford PP2 for my 2016 GT Premium. Up until this point, the only other mod on my 'Stang was a Corsa Extreme Cat-Back system that the previous owner had installed in 2017, and then a Roush rear Valance so I could replace the dual tips with quads just this past winter.
S/O to Greg @BLUE DEVIL for hooking me up with the unopened PP2, as well as an Air Raid filter and strut tower braces! Much preferred to deal locally in cash than with the websites. Lucky me!
Did the job on my uncle's driveway who has owned and operated his own tow and repair business for almost 30 years. He was originally a sales rep for Snap-On Tools, so he has an at-home tool arsenal a plebeian could only dream of. By the time I pulled into his driveway, popped the hood, and got all the new parts out of the back, he had already removed the stock airbox and was getting busy on the throttle body. We worked so quick that this was only the "progress" photo I managed to take.
Go figure, the moment I captured was his first attempt at removing the sound tube from the firewall and.... SWEET JESUS, there had better be a 10th circle of hell added just for the monster that designed this component. As if the damn engine isn't loud enough at stock, here is this plastic tubing installed all the way behind the engine where only a person with spaghetti noodles for arms could reach. ANYWAY, some other general install notes:
- Cutting and rearranging the evac hoses to reattach to the new intake tube was not spelled out or shown well in the instructions at all. Would have never figured out without spending an hour roaming youtube.
- Installing the new intake assembly is a helluva lot easier if you disassemble it down to it's 3 main pieces (bottom of airbox goes first, then intake tube, then top part of airbox). That being said, I'm not totally sure if we got the rubber shroud installed correctly around the air inlet behind the grille. If I reach down through the airbox, there is a spot where I can fit my fingers between the rubber shroud and the outside of the inlet, and another spot where I have to push the rubber out from inside the inlet. Not sure how critical this is so long as the top of the box is sealed up against the hood. The inlet is still sucking from straight forward behind the grille with our without the shroud being flush around it. What do you guys think, disassemble and make sure it's on correctly now that I have a better understanding of how its supposed to fit? I would love for it to be *perfect* but I can't imagine it makes much of a difference to be slightly off.
Results: Excellent.
Definitely feel the extra kick down low. Lighting up the rears with ease when rolling out from idle without dumping the clutch. Took a road trip up to Lake Geneva WI last weekend and it was an absolute animal on the country lanes up there. My favorite feature is probably the new throttle mapping though. Obviously the response feels sharper, but the revs don't feel like they hang the same way they used to (although not a like a mechanical throttle cable). It's made my shifting smoother in civilized driving. Absolutely love it.
Next project is going to be a shifter replacement. I know it has been addressed to a great deal previously on these forums, but I'll offer it up again for input: What is everyone's thoughts on Barton Vs. MGW? The general vibe I've gotten from around here is that the MGW were historically the better units, but the Hybrid 3 has made it about equal and a matter of personal preference. Personally I'm leaning towards a Barton with a flat stick because I am an absolute sucker for skinny post with a classic shift ball on top. Still, I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are on the matter, as well as the situation with the air inlet.
-Vince
After much deliberation (and the recent EPA shenanigans with the big tuning shops) I decided to get the Ford PP2 for my 2016 GT Premium. Up until this point, the only other mod on my 'Stang was a Corsa Extreme Cat-Back system that the previous owner had installed in 2017, and then a Roush rear Valance so I could replace the dual tips with quads just this past winter.
S/O to Greg @BLUE DEVIL for hooking me up with the unopened PP2, as well as an Air Raid filter and strut tower braces! Much preferred to deal locally in cash than with the websites. Lucky me!
Did the job on my uncle's driveway who has owned and operated his own tow and repair business for almost 30 years. He was originally a sales rep for Snap-On Tools, so he has an at-home tool arsenal a plebeian could only dream of. By the time I pulled into his driveway, popped the hood, and got all the new parts out of the back, he had already removed the stock airbox and was getting busy on the throttle body. We worked so quick that this was only the "progress" photo I managed to take.
Go figure, the moment I captured was his first attempt at removing the sound tube from the firewall and.... SWEET JESUS, there had better be a 10th circle of hell added just for the monster that designed this component. As if the damn engine isn't loud enough at stock, here is this plastic tubing installed all the way behind the engine where only a person with spaghetti noodles for arms could reach. ANYWAY, some other general install notes:
- Cutting and rearranging the evac hoses to reattach to the new intake tube was not spelled out or shown well in the instructions at all. Would have never figured out without spending an hour roaming youtube.
- Installing the new intake assembly is a helluva lot easier if you disassemble it down to it's 3 main pieces (bottom of airbox goes first, then intake tube, then top part of airbox). That being said, I'm not totally sure if we got the rubber shroud installed correctly around the air inlet behind the grille. If I reach down through the airbox, there is a spot where I can fit my fingers between the rubber shroud and the outside of the inlet, and another spot where I have to push the rubber out from inside the inlet. Not sure how critical this is so long as the top of the box is sealed up against the hood. The inlet is still sucking from straight forward behind the grille with our without the shroud being flush around it. What do you guys think, disassemble and make sure it's on correctly now that I have a better understanding of how its supposed to fit? I would love for it to be *perfect* but I can't imagine it makes much of a difference to be slightly off.
Results: Excellent.
Definitely feel the extra kick down low. Lighting up the rears with ease when rolling out from idle without dumping the clutch. Took a road trip up to Lake Geneva WI last weekend and it was an absolute animal on the country lanes up there. My favorite feature is probably the new throttle mapping though. Obviously the response feels sharper, but the revs don't feel like they hang the same way they used to (although not a like a mechanical throttle cable). It's made my shifting smoother in civilized driving. Absolutely love it.
Next project is going to be a shifter replacement. I know it has been addressed to a great deal previously on these forums, but I'll offer it up again for input: What is everyone's thoughts on Barton Vs. MGW? The general vibe I've gotten from around here is that the MGW were historically the better units, but the Hybrid 3 has made it about equal and a matter of personal preference. Personally I'm leaning towards a Barton with a flat stick because I am an absolute sucker for skinny post with a classic shift ball on top. Still, I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are on the matter, as well as the situation with the air inlet.
-Vince
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