PP steering knuckles

[K4fxd]

I have .850 on the PP arms and my stock ball joint stems are .870

The .850 stems pull through.

The stock arms have Ford markings and the correct barcode sticker. Now I'm even more confused.

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[K4fxd]

@tj@steeda @Optimum Performance @Hotpart.com


Ok, looking at this closer there is a collar on the bottom of the ball joint stud. So even if the stud pulls all the way through it should land on the collar and that should allow movement as the collar turns with the stud.

With my stock arms installed it drives and steers like it should. With the PP arms it binds up.

Any ideas what I should look for? The bars measure the same and appear to have the same offset. I'm at a loss here.

I searched the interwebs and came across a thread where someone else had the same issue but as normal they never updated with the solution if any.

 

[Optimum Performance]

@tj@steeda @Optimum Performance @Hotpart.com


Ok, looking at this closer there is a collar on the bottom of the ball joint stud. So even if the stud pulls all the way through it should land on the collar and that should allow movement as the collar turns with the stud.

With my stock arms installed it drives and steers like it should. With the PP arms it binds up.

Any ideas what I should look for? The bars measure the same and appear to have the same offset. I'm at a loss here.

I searched the interwebs and came across a thread where someone else had the same issue but as normal they never updated with the solution if any.

If you can post some pictures of the ball joint end of the arms, the studs and the cap on the bottom of the ball joint that would be helpful

 

[K4fxd]

Here you go. If you need more or different angles let me know.

 

[Howitzer]

I can't help with your exact problem but I've not heard of the steering knuckles being different. I went from those base control arms to Steeda (made like the PP arms but with extended ball joints to raise front roll center) and have never experienced any steering binding.

 

[Optimum Performance]

@tj@steeda @Optimum Performance @Hotpart.com


Ok, looking at this closer there is a collar on the bottom of the ball joint stud. So even if the stud pulls all the way through it should land on the collar and that should allow movement as the collar turns with the stud.

With my stock arms installed it drives and steers like it should. With the PP arms it binds up.

Any ideas what I should look for? The bars measure the same and appear to have the same offset. I'm at a loss here.

I searched the interwebs and came across a thread where someone else had the same issue but as normal they never updated with the solution if any.

Take a 10mm (or whatever the size is) wrench and see how the ball joint spins. You have verified that everything is torqued properly (the ball joint spins in the arm-NOT the knuckle) When the ball joint is tightened it should be wedged into the knuckle. Is it possible the steel caps at the base of the ball joint have damage and it has locked up the ball joint? Have you checked this Binding with the wheels off? Do you have the forward mounted control arms installed on the proper side (they are also right and left) Are you positive it is not just an alignment change from the new parts. Need more on what binding means, you cant turn the wheels or it feels different? I will assume you are not attempting to place the ball joint into the knuckle upside down...

 

[K4fxd]

I will assume you are not attempting to place the ball joint into the knuckle upside down...

LOL

No not upside down.
Yes forward arms are correct, The one marked L is on the drivers side.
Yes the ball joint spins when I put a wrench on it.
My torque wrench was calibrated one month ago It's 1% at all test points. 80 for the ball joint and 175 at the car end

s it possible the steel caps at the base of the ball joint have damage and it has locked up the ball joint? Have you checked this Binding with the wheels off?

I can turn the ball joint with a wrench, it feels just a touch tighter than the used one. I have an inch pound torque wrench I could see what break away is.

It binds with wheels on and off.

Binding means, Going straight down the road the steering wheel seems to stick and it takes pressure to turn it, like the power steering is not working.

Binding means when I turn a corner the wheel will not come back to center without me helping it. If I'm in a parking lot and turn the wheel and then give it some gas the car will drive in a circle with me not holding the wheel.

In all those situations the wheel should come back to center.

Alignment, I at first thought it was an alignment issue. I took it to my guy who takes the time to give me the numbers I want exactly and even side to side.

Looking at the print out it is -2.25 camber zero toe and 7 degrees positive caster front.
-1.75 camber and .1 degree toe in per wheel in the rear, total toe .2

Thanks for your time I hope we can figure this out.

 

[K4fxd]

I do have it isolated to the rear arms. I've had these things on and off so many times it takes longer to jack the car up than to swap arms.

I used aluminum tape and built up the stud .01 I so far only did this on one rear arm. The car drove fine.

I have some real shim stock coming in the AM I will try adding it to both rear arms and see what happens.

I am lowered 1/2 inch Steeda min drop springs.

 

[K4fxd]

I cannot figure what is wrong. I took the car to my alignment shop and he is also baffled.

Would any vendors send me the PP rear arms with the ability for me to return if I have the same problem?

@tj@steeda, @Hotpart.com, @Optimum Performance @LethalPerformance, @beefcake @LevittownFordParts

 

[LevittownFordParts]

We will accept them back but not if they show signs of installation or use.

- Benny

 

[K4fxd]

We will accept them back but not if they show signs of installation or use.

I would have to install them to see if they bind up the steering.

 

[LevittownFordParts]

Sorry Dan, We cant take them back. I can offer them at a discounted cost to try and help here. PM me for more details if you want to go that route.
- Benny

 

[K4fxd]

I got another set of arms. I have the same problem. When I look up the part I get a description of Shelby and PP. This is why I am asking if the Performance Pack cars get the Shelby steering knuckle.

• FR3Z-3079-C
• Positions: Left, Left Lower, Front Left Rearward Lower
• Other Names: Lower Control Arm, Suspension Control Arm, Arm Assembly Front Suspension, mcf2330
• Description:
  Mustang. Aft position. Left. With shelby. Performance Package. Incl.Ball Joint & Bushings.

@Optimum Performance

 

[GT 550]

Just did a quick search for 'GT350 knuckle' and it seems the knuckles aren't the same, including a mention of ball joint taper differing. Someone once documented a swap to Shelby knuckles but I couldn't find that thread sorry.

 

[K4fxd]

Just did a quick search for 'GT350 knuckle' and it seems the knuckles aren't the same

OK so you are saying the "with Shelby" description is wrong?

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