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phunk

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Ah yes I've seen those a million times just hadn't thought of it yet. I'll probably get some on order thanks.
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Reds197

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Just have your tuner turn off the cat sensor. The bungs have never worked on the 11-14 5.0.
 

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Just have your tuner turn off the cat sensor. The bungs have never worked on the 11-14 5.0.

He needs them on to pass emissions in his state. The bung is all about the length. If they are not long enough they don't pull the 02 sensors far enough from air stream.


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Reds197

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If they are two far it shows an error just the same. No one has been able to do it on the coyote. I had them on my 08 and it worked. These cars are different.
 

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Well there are 1,000's of 11-14 mustangs in MA and I'm sure a massive amount of them have hi flo or no cats at all that pass emissions. How are they getting it done? The sensors can not be turned off when attempting emissions, it simply won't pass. And codes can't be just erased because 5 of the 7 emission systems tested have to be "ready" to allow the car to pass. This means the car has to be driven a few hundred miles before the car can be tested. I would be willing to bet it is possible to trick the car with bungs. Just has to be a certain length.


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Reds197

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Ok. Good luck!

There is an option to leave them on and disable the comparison between the front and rear o2's to determine if cats are on the car. I would talk to my tuner.
 
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Mikeyd56

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Phunk I didn't know you lived in Illinois! I must be taken for a ride when ever you have free time!
 
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phunk

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I am in St Charles / Batavia!
 

Mikeyd56

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Not to bad. I live in orland park on the south side. I might have to drive up there to check out the ride! I also might have to lure you with some pizza and excellent beverages to help me with my install :cheers::headbang:
 

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I dont know if I would bother with changing out the clutch hose, the stock setup looked and seems fine to me. Bleeds easily too, you cant beat the self bleeder... just pump the pedal for about 5 min and presto, everything is perfect.

I would say yes, to do the clutch with the driveshaft and shifter, since both ahve to removed to do the clutch, and you need a clutch anyway, it makes all the sense.

The headers at the same time... if you want to have a REALLY bad weekend like I did, sure LOL. Its sort of a lot to do at the same time, but its nice to just get it out of the way.
I did, the stock clutch line has been known to be a major issue in heating up under track use and causing a pedal to stick to the floor since the 2011's. $60, cheap insurance.
 

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I did, the stock clutch line has been known to be a major issue in heating up under track use and causing a pedal to stick to the floor since the 2011's. $60, cheap insurance.

I have the Ford Racing clutch line on order and it's much more than $60. Any reason I shouldn't use the Ford Racing one?


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Process

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I have the Ford Racing clutch line on order and it's much more than $60. Any reason I shouldn't use the Ford Racing one?


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I use the McLeod line, you'll find most FRPP stuff is very good quality but it is usually farmed out to other aftermarket companies and marked up. I *think"* Joe Heck Racing makes it for FRPP.

Beefcake and Hypermotive are both direct with McLeod

this is the line I use http://www.hypermotive.com/mcleod-performance-hydraulic-clutch-line-upgrade-05-14/

You don't need a McLeod clutch to run it, works for all MT82's from 2011-2016.
 
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phunk

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Forgestar CF10s put on the rear so far. No front yet because I havent picked out my front tires. Might swap over my stock front tires for now.

But I took some weights for the rear for those interested:

Stock REAR PP wheels/tires = 63.5# each
CF10 19x11 with NT05R 305/35/19 = 56.5# each

I weighed lugs, center caps, etc, and gathered that I am saving an additional 1/4# per corner from that stuff, so once all 4 wheels are on, thats 1# savings in the lugs pretty much... ya tiny but whatever I measured it LOL.

So with just the rear done, I dropped 14.5# of rotational weight. Not bad to loose weight while gaining grip. Time for a drive!!!!!
 

esacteksab

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Forgestar CF10s put on the rear so far. No front yet because I havent picked out my front tires. Might swap over my stock front tires for now.

But I took some weights for the rear for those interested:

Stock REAR PP wheels/tires = 63.5# each
CF10 19x11 with NT05R 305/35/19 = 56.5# each

I weighed lugs, center caps, etc, and gathered that I am saving an additional 1/4# per corner from that stuff, so once all 4 wheels are on, thats 1# savings in the lugs pretty much... ya tiny but whatever I measured it LOL.

So with just the rear done, I dropped 14.5# of rotational weight. Not bad to loose weight while gaining grip. Time for a drive!!!!!

*cough* pictures *cough*
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