Passenger side floor wet

[LB2017Ecoboost]

I pulled my A pillar trim and isolated that the water was coming in at the top corner of the window, then running down the inside of the A pillar trim and then appearing at the same place as in your pics. This picture shows a drop coming in. My local Ford dealership body shop and a nearby glass shop pulled the glass and determined that the sheet metal seam just behind the top right corner of the windshield had not been sealed properly. They pulled the glass, fixed the seam and reinstalled the glass. So far no leaks. I'm hoping this might help someone else with a similar issue.

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[Nox]

I have the same issue. Ford dealer couldn't figure it out and sent me to a windshield expert. They said nothing's wrong with the windshield. I have to deal with this every time there is heavy rain...

 

[LB2017Ecoboost]

NOX, your issue looks exactly like what was happening with my 2017. For mine, the issue wasn't the windshield itself but rather the body seam at the top right corner of the windshield - its actually behind the windshield and couldn't really be seen until they pulled the windshield. Once they pulled it, the glass shop owner could see the issue and they tested it with water and could see water coming in from the bad body seam. The Ford dealer (just down the street from the glass shop) came down, corrected the body seam gap and the glass shop reinstalled the glass - I haven't had a problem since then, and we've had some heavy rains. Unfortunately, there is a chance when they pull the front glass that it could break. Mine came out w/out breaking but the glass shop told me that was a risk - I was fortunate. Its too bad as this issue seems like it is faulty from Ford factory. Good luck. I hope you can get yours fixes.

 

[Nox]

LB2017Ecoboost - Thank you so much for the detailed response.

 

[SpicyNikNaks]

Hi, I wanted to contribute to this thread with my own experience as I found this thread extremely useful in diagnosing and tracking down my own issue (which was exactly the same).

My 2017 Mustang S550 (UK RH Drive) occasionally had damp carpets but I was unable to track the issue down until I found this thread and started looking in the right places.

The thing that really motivated me into solving this problem was my remote lock/unlock stopped working and then my TPMS stopped working. It turns out the water that was running down the A-Pillar was making its way into the connector that goes into the BCM. This caused corrosion inside the connector and two of the pins have broken (the cause of the failure of the remote lock and TPMS). This looks like it has happened over a period of months, possibly with enough water to corrode the pins but not soak the carpet. As a temporary fix, I have managed to jumper these connections to the other side of the connector and get everything working, but I am now looking to replace the broken pins as a more permanent fix.

Stoping the leak
My first job was to stop the leak. With the car being out of warranty, I wanted to avoid a big expense (and the shockingly poor Ford dealers where I live) if I could. After a bit of research, I discovered this product called "Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" which I purchased from Amazon. This is a very thin liquid (thinner than water) that uses capillary action to draw itself into hairline cracks.
I followed the instructions on removing the trim and then applied a small amount of the liquid sealant every 30 minutes to the top corner of the area next to the wind shield/screen. I did this over the course of about 4 or 5 hours and then left to set for 24 hours.
After 24 hours I did a leak test and no water came in. The car has been fine since then and no more water has come in. I can't say how permanent a fix this will be, but early indications give me confidence. As a precaution, I will probably re-apply this process periodically just to be on the safe side.
The thing I liked about this product is that it dries clear, is invisible and allowed me - in a non invasive manner - to seal a leak I couldn't see with my eyes.

So, hopefully this info helps others and maybe as an inexpensive first attempt, this might fix someone else's leak.

 

[mustang_puppy]

Reviving this thread because this happened to me, at least within the last year. We had storms over the last couple of days and this time the leak might have shorted or destroyed the BCM because this evening I tried to start my car and absolutely nothing happened. Dead. Tried jumping it, no go. Did notice that the passenger side fog light had been on earlier in the day. If the BCM is destroyed, is it easy to replace? Can I just stick it in some rice? How much did it cost to replace it?

 

[Skye]

For the 7G Mustangs, there is an active recall involving the cowl, leaks and potential for corrosion and damage of the Body Control Module and connectors.

https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/th...-into-bcm-and-connectors-25c43-25v546.170702/

After making a repair to fix the leak, the BCM is then inspected for any water damage. At one extreme, there are no tells of corrosion on the connectors. At the other, the corrosion (hinting at long-term damage) is enough to replace the BCM. It depends.

Returning to this generation...

Water intrusion is important and has an immediate impact. But after drying, the determination to replace will be based on the amount of any corrosion present.

I'm attaching some diagrams for the 6G BCM. The connectors themselves seem simple enough. If interested in removing the connectors and inspecting, I'd begin by disconnecting the car's battery at the negative cable and waiting 15 minutes. Afterwards, you could remove connectors one at a time and take a look.

I'd think if the water intrusion was not extensive, you could remove the connector/s, let things dry out and later re-attach. But while drying you see corrosion, you might need an opinion on if that'd require replacement of the BCM.

As part of the drying process, I would not use compressed air. If there was any water present, I'd be concerned I was now forcing any of that into the assemblies themselves, where the connector sockets are. I'd just keep things uncovered, keep the car's door open, maybe use a DampRid or other dehumidifying device.

Swapping the BCM in physical terms is somewhat simple. But the new unit will need to be flashed with Ford code and programmed to the vehicle. IDK if you can get one programmed at the counter and install it yourself or have to have Ford install the BCM as part of the programming process.

Edit,

I'm seeing BCMs on offer for around $400 and under. Four hundred for a new unit. Half that for used. If getting replaced at the dealer, it'd be at least one hour of labor, maybe two.

BCM $400 (guestimate)
Labor $300 (2 hours)
-----------
$700 ballpark

For cleaning connectors, check out the makeup isles at the stores. Super-soft brushes of all kinds and shapes can be had. This could help wipe away anything without having to worry about bending or breaking any of the pins.

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