Sponsored

P0222 & P2101 no response from accelerator

dani951

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
77
Reaction score
19
Location
Manchester
First Name
Dan
Vehicle(s)
Ford mustang gt 2016
Hi guys was wondering if someone could offer some advice please been having an issue with the accelerator not working and the car stalling 5 seconds after I starting it. I ran a diagnostics and it came up with the P0222 and P2101 codes which made sense since it seems like the throttle body wasn’t working and no air was getting into the engine however I replaced it today but I’m still having the same issue the wiring seems okay could it be a fried ecu ?
Sponsored

 

Sabre

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Threads
11
Messages
369
Reaction score
294
Location
Iowa
First Name
Dave
Vehicle(s)
Iconic Silver 2023 Mach 1 with Handling Package
Hi guys was wondering if someone could offer some advice please been having an issue with the accelerator not working and the car stalling 5 seconds after I starting it. I ran a diagnostics and it came up with the P0222 and P2101 codes which made sense since it seems like the throttle body wasn’t working and no air was getting into the engine however I replaced it today but I’m still having the same issue the wiring seems okay could it be a fried ecu ?

Think of your foot pedal as one of those light dimmer switches in your house. The farther you push down on the pedal, the more signal it sends to the throttle body sensor to tell it to open for more air. If the foot pedal switch/sender has failed, it won't send enough signal to the throttle body to open...and/or if the receiving sensor on the throttle body has failed, it won't respond to the foot pedal signal. Or, it could be a break or short in the wiring in between...or a ground issue. Also, the ECU occasionally samples the readings of the two sensors, to see if they are showing that they are close and within a specified range of each other. For example....let's say the foot pedal sensor tells the ECU that it is sending at a level of 5 and the throttle body says it's receiving a level of 4 1/2...that might well be in the accepted range. But if the pedal says it's sending a level of 7, but the TB senors says it's only receiving a level of 3 or 4, that is probably outside of the acceptable range. At that point, the ECU will probably through a code. In this case, most of the time, just taking off the negative battery cable for a few minutes, let's both sensors do a reset and they get back in line with one another.

I'd try taking the negative battery cable off for a few minutes and see if they will sync up and work together again. After you put the negative cable back on....turn the car on
to just the accessory mode and VERY SLOWLY push the accelerator pedal ALL the way to the floor and hold it for 10 seconds. Then turn the accessory mode off and then try starting the car normally. If that doesn't fix it, then you've got something more going on with the output or input of the 2 sensors and a dealership might have to track down which it is.
 
OP
OP

dani951

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
77
Reaction score
19
Location
Manchester
First Name
Dan
Vehicle(s)
Ford mustang gt 2016
Think of your foot pedal as one of those light dimmer switches in your house. The farther you push down on the pedal, the more signal it sends to the throttle body sensor to tell it to open for more air. If the foot pedal switch/sender has failed, it won't send enough signal to the throttle body to open...and/or if the receiving sensor on the throttle body has failed, it won't respond to the foot pedal signal. Or, it could be a break or short in the wiring in between...or a ground issue. Also, the ECU occasionally samples the readings of the two sensors, to see if they are showing that they are close and within a specified range of each other. For example....let's say the foot pedal sensor tells the ECU that it is sending at a level of 5 and the throttle body says it's receiving a level of 4 1/2...that might well be in the accepted range. But if the pedal says it's sending a level of 7, but the TB senors says it's only receiving a level of 3 or 4, that is probably outside of the acceptable range. At that point, the ECU will probably through a code. In this case, most of the time, just taking off the negative battery cable for a few minutes, let's both sensors do a reset and they get back in line with one another.

I'd try taking the negative battery cable off for a few minutes and see if they will sync up and work together again. After you put the negative cable back on....turn the car on
to just the accessory mode and VERY SLOWLY push the accelerator pedal ALL the way to the floor and hold it for 10 seconds. Then turn the accessory mode off and then try starting the car normally. If that doesn't fix it, then you've got something more going on with the output or input of the 2 sensors and a dealership might have to track down which it is.
Thanks for getting back to me I’m definitely try that today that makes so much sense
 

Southview

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 2, 2016
Threads
39
Messages
767
Reaction score
258
Location
Viera, FL
First Name
Herby
Vehicle(s)
2015 GT Premium Convertible
Check and make sure your brake lights are not staying on. There is a known problem with brake light switch which sends car int a limp mode.
 
OP
OP

dani951

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
77
Reaction score
19
Location
Manchester
First Name
Dan
Vehicle(s)
Ford mustang gt 2016
So I just tried to do the reset and unfortunately it didn’t work ordered a new pedal so hopefully that will sort it out
 

Sponsored

OP
OP

dani951

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
77
Reaction score
19
Location
Manchester
First Name
Dan
Vehicle(s)
Ford mustang gt 2016
Hi yes I did end up figuring it out in case case I was fixing the car after an accident and some of the wires from the wiring harness had ripped after putting them back together it also turned out they had fried my ecu and throttle body so I had to replace them both and get the ecu coded in has been fine ever since
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2025
Threads
2
Messages
11
Reaction score
4
Location
fulton, ar
First Name
Joshua
Vehicle(s)
2017 mustang ecoboost
I was afraid of that. I just did a harness repair myself and having pretty much the same issues. Im hoping throwing the oem throttle body back on will help but im leaning towards my ecu is messed up too
 
OP
OP

dani951

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
77
Reaction score
19
Location
Manchester
First Name
Dan
Vehicle(s)
Ford mustang gt 2016
Hopefully the throttle body will sort it if not and you need a new ecu the issue i had was that I bought a used one tried to clone it but the ecus are locked so i had to find a guy online who had IDS and remotely connected to my computer and first to code it using ids offline which didn't work luckily he also had access to ford servers and we managed to do it online as tge ecu sends a code out to ford servers and it the servers respond which a matching one authenticating it and letting it be coded on well at least here in the UK hope that helps a bit
 
 








Top