P0016 help

[DruDru_97]

Hello, I have a 2016 Ecoboost that’s given me the p0016 code on as well as it’s been running pretty rough. The car is heavily modified. While driving to work Sunday morning I passed a car on the interstate where the car sputtered like the spark plug gap was too large. (I’m running the gap at 0.028) and once that happened the car started running poorly. No power, high rpm for low speed and it sounded like the bov was constantly opening even though the car was reading 8-9.5 psi of boost.
I tried realigning the crank position sensor and setting cylinder 1 to TDC but no luck.
reset the ecu, no luck
I’ve checked the wiring to the cam position sensors and the crank position sensor and nothing there either.
No mechanical noises and no knock

mods to the car:
Built motor
Wiseco boostline rods
Manley extreme duty pistons
Massive speed balance shaft delete
MAPerformance springs/guides/retainers/seals
Ford performance cams
Massive speed Keyed crank
New timing chain kit
New front and rear main seals

ford Performance turbo (focus rs turbo)
Mishimoto intercooler
SR Performance charge piping
Turbosmart recirculating bov
Turbosmart internal waste gate (10lbs spring)
Roush CAI
Catless down pipe
MBPR race series cat back

given that the crank is keyed and the timing chain is brand new, I wouldn’t assume it would’ve skipped a tooth but maybe the tensioner failed? Or maybe intake can position sensor failed?
The car has 6000 miles since the new motor was put in.

Any info would be a huge help. Thanks in advance.

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[Cobra Jet]

Check the wiring harnesses going to the crank and cam sensors for any damages. Check the connectors to the sensors and make sure they are seated.

A cam or crank sensor can certainly fail, even if new or replaced. Usually with these sensors you can ohm spec them against the factory spec values - if they’re out of spec, replacement is necessary.

Make sure timing hasn’t jumped.

 

[DruDru_97]

Check the wiring harnesses going to the crank and cam sensors for any damages. Check the connectors to the sensors and make sure they are seated.

A cam or crank sensor can certainly fail, even if new or replaced. Usually with these sensors you can ohm spec them against the factory spec values - if they’re out of spec, replacement is necessary.

Make sure timing hasn’t jumped.

I actually replaced the cam sensors earlier today and while it got rid of the P0016 code, it’s now giving me the P0340, P0344, P0365 and P0369 codes. (Camshaft position sensor A/B circuit) I took the valve cover off a couple nights ago and inspected the cams and timing. Neither had any obvious wear or seemed to be out of place. Timing chain was still tight and showed no signs of skipping. I know it’s very unlikely that the chain would skip a tooth without the tensioner giving way, and from what I can tell that hasnt been the case. I have a couple crank position sensors for this engine sitting in the garage so I’ll try swapping that tomorrow night. Had also noticed a slight gasoline smell coming from the engine bay when everything first started so I was advised from a friend to double check injectors and make sure they aren’t wanting to unseat and lose combustion chamber pressure, which seems a little unlikely given the sensor codes but I suppose weirder things could happen.

 

[Coyote Chase]

it’s now giving me the P0340, P0344, P0365 and P0369 codes.

FYI: Multiple codes have happened to me twice with my 2018 Mustang. First time, it was a pinched wire, second time, it was a blown fuse. Not saying that this is your problem, but sometimes a complicated problem can have a simple repair!?

 

[DruDru_97]

FYI: Multiple codes have happened to me twice with my 2018 Mustang. First time, it was a pinched wire, second time, it was a blown fuse. Not saying that this is your problem, but sometimes a complicated problem can have a simple repair!?

I hadn’t thought about a blown fuse! I’ll check that too thank you!

 

[Rod Schneider]

You may already know this, but replacing the crankshaft position sensor requires the use of timing tools to set it correctly.......

 

[DruDru_97]

FYI: Multiple codes have happened to me twice with my 2018 Mustang. First time, it was a pinched wire, second time, it was a blown fuse. Not saying that this is your problem, but sometimes a complicated problem can have a simple repair!?

I checked the harness and didn’t see any kinks or pinches. Checked the fuse for powertrain control module and it looked fine. Do you happen to know which fuse blew in your situation?

 

[Coyote Chase]

I checked the harness and didn’t see any kinks or pinches. Checked the fuse for powertrain control module and it looked fine. Do you happen to know which fuse blew in your situation?

Mine was fuse #40
Another troubleshooting practice is to list all fault codes and look for a common denominator.

 

[DruDru_97]

Update:
I’ve checked fuses #38 and #40 no blown fuses from what I can see.
checked and fully charged battery off of the car.
took the battery to autozone and they said it’s still 100%
Car reads 11.7 volts while the car isn’t started but 14.1 while the car is running.
cleaned the battery cables (rather dirty)
I’ve seen guys with the S197 chassis claim they have this problem and it ends up being the alternator. That might be my next course of action
I can start the car but can feel it missing consistently.

 

[Coyote Chase]

You can try resetting your electronic system. The method should be outlined in your owners manual. Also you may want to search this forum for a post another member responded to and explained in detail how to reset the electrical system.

I had something similar happen years ago when my car was towed and the tow truck driver set my alarm off.

 

[DruDru_97]

You can try resetting your electronic system. The method should be outlined in your owners manual. Also you may want to search this forum for a post another member responded to and explained in detail how to reset the electrical system.

I had something similar happen years ago when my car was towed and the tow truck driver set my alarm off.

Found the post you were referring to and tried resetting the electrical system. Reset the system, tried it but I’m still missing within a minute or two or running

 

[DruDru_97]

Another update:

turns out the cam position sensors I swapped in were bad. Now that I’ve gotten the P0340,P0344, P0365 and P0369 to go away but the P0016 is back. Not sure where to go from here

 

[Coyote Chase]

Another update:

turns out the cam position sensors I swapped in were bad. Now that I’ve gotten the P0340,P0344, P0365 and P0369 to go away but the P0016 is back. Not sure where to go from here

Sounds like you've made some good advances and learned a lot about your car!
I'd have to break out my ohms meter and manual and re-test everything once again. Not an easy thing to do, even frustrating! Hopefully it will be something simple and inexpensive.

 

[DruDru_97]

Update:
I took the timing chain cover off to refine the engine and found the tensioner for the oil pump chain had come off (luckily it and the bolt hadn’t come completely off and destroyed the engine)
I believe the VCT solenoid are based off of oil pressure so maybe the pump isn’t able to pump enough pressure to the solenoid and maybe retarding the timing on the intake cam? Kind of a shot in the dark but I’m going to check timing tomorrow and verify it’s in time like I believe it is.

 

[Da_Boz]

FYI: Multiple codes have happened to me twice with my 2018 Mustang. First time, it was a pinched wire, second time, it was a blown fuse. Not saying that this is your problem, but sometimes a complicated problem can have a simple repair!?

What fuse might that be? I have a P0369 code on a 2020 5.0

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