Opg install, Whats all required?

[Roh92cp]

[MENTION=16819]Roh92cp[/MENTION] Thanks very much for your advice.

I pulled it back off, reheated it, oiled shaft, and stubbornly put it on with the MMR install bolt. Went on buttery smooth and torqued to 100ft/lbs as ARP specs.

Good job glad you had success, and now you'll have piece of mind that it went one correctly.

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[ahl395]

Good job glad you had success, and now you'll have piece of mind that it went one correctly.

Thanks again!

Do you think it was correct to use ARP's specs instead of the OEM torque spec? I figured since I was using the ARP bolt that was more correct. 100ft/lbs didnt seem like that much though. My socket didn't even slip off the torque converter once. Lol

 

[Roh92cp]

Thanks again!

Do you think it was correct to use ARP's specs instead of the OEM torque spec? I figured since I was using the ARP bolt that was more correct. 100ft/lbs didnt seem like that much though. My socket didn't even slip off the torque converter once. Lol

Yes use the ARP spec for ARP bolt as they have different tensile strengths than OEM bolts and require their torque settings. Also it should be installed with ARP lube on th threads and bolt head and washer to attain the proper torque load. I called ARP, ATI and Whipple and they all agree to use ARP lube not loctite.

 

[ahl395]

Yes use the ARP spec for ARP bolt as they have different tensile strengths than OEM bolts and require their torque settings. Also it should be installed with ARP lube on th threads and bolt head and washer to attain the proper torque load. I called ARP, ATI and Whipple and they all agree to use ARP lube not loctite.

Hmm. I read the instructions with the ARP bolt it only said to apply the ARP lube to the bottom of the washer (where it contacts the balancer) and the base of the bolt head (where it contacts the washer), so that is what I did.

 

[Roh92cp]

Hmm. I read the instructions with the ARP bolt it only said to apply the ARP lube to the bottom of the washer (where it contacts the balancer) and the base of the bolt head (where it contacts the washer), so that is what I did.

Hmmm, well read this off the ARP site for installing the coyote motor damper bolt. It clearly says in number 4 to use lube on the threads as well. You will not get an accurate torque reading and bolt stretch without the threads lubed. I would turn it back out lube and retorque if I was you.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/156-2502.pdf

 

[ahl395]

Hmmm, well read this off the ARP site for installing the coyote motor damper bolt. It clearly says in number 4 to use lube on the threads as well. You will not get an accurate torque reading and bolt stretch without the threads lubed. I would turn it back out lube and retorque if I was you.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/156-2502.pdf

Not sure how I missed that. Lol :frusty: Thanks again

 

[Roh92cp]

Not sure how I missed that. Lol :frusty: Thanks again

Yes sir, now get her done

 

[bew]

I think I messed up timing in a way I haven't previously read in this thread.

After assembling the driver side chain/components, I turned the crank clockwise from 5 o'clock back to 12 o'clock and put the passenger side on .. instead of turning it a full 360* back to 5 o'clock, then back up to 12 o'clock.

After assembling the passenger side I then proceeded to do 4 full clockwise rotations to check for interference.

I'm assuming at this point I can just turn the crank so that it's back to 12 o'clock, pull the passenger side chain, and turn counter-clockwise back down to 5 o'clock? This should get me back to my starting point right? From there I can turn from 5 to 5, then back to 12, and install.

Anyone see any issues with this approach?

 

[Roh92cp]

I think I messed up timing in a way I haven't previously read in this thread.

After assembling the driver side chain/components, I turned the crank clockwise from 5 o'clock back to 12 o'clock and put the passenger side on .. instead of turning it a full 360* back to 5 o'clock, then back up to 12 o'clock.

After assembling the passenger side I then proceeded to do 4 full clockwise rotations to check for interference.

I'm assuming at this point I can just turn the crank so that it's back to 12 o'clock, pull the passenger side chain, and turn counter-clockwise back down to 5 o'clock? This should get me back to my starting point right? From there I can turn from 5 to 5, then back to 12, and install.

Anyone see any issues with this approach?

Looks like you missed step 6, one complete revolution. Then you go to 12. Anyway I think if you open it up get the RH (pass side) side timing mark to @ 11 o'clock position as seen in step 4 with keyway at 12 o'clock then take the RH chain off you will need to turn it one complete revolution to get it back in time.

 

[RT302]

Awesome thread. Quick question. I want to do as much as I can while doing the opg/cg. Might as well upgrade anything else needed at the same time. I have MMR opg and cg, have both the apr bolt and MMR bolt, plus IW balancer. Anything else anyone suggests I go ahead and upgrade while this is being done? Thanks.

 

[db252]

Awesome thread. Quick question. I want to do as much as I can while doing the opg/cg. Might as well upgrade anything else needed at the same time. I have MMR opg and cg, have both the apr bolt and MMR bolt, plus IW balancer. Anything else anyone suggests I go ahead and upgrade while this is being done? Thanks.

There is quite a bit but depends on how much you want to spend. I and some others have added the mmr secondary tensioner mod which is for the drivers side only (go on there site to learn about it) and boss primary tensioners upgrade plus the ARP bolts that go with them. You can also change the guides to the ones that mmr makes. No need to change the secondary tensioner as they are already the highest grade made now.

 

[RT302]

I will end up voiding the warranty when I add the blower so I want to do as much as possible for peace of mind. I'll look into what you've suggested. Thanks!!

 

[Roh92cp]

Awesome thread. Quick question. I want to do as much as I can while doing the opg/cg. Might as well upgrade anything else needed at the same time. I have MMR opg and cg, have both the apr bolt and MMR bolt, plus IW balancer. Anything else anyone suggests I go ahead and upgrade while this is being done? Thanks.

This is a good idea if your already there. It inverts the drivers side tensioner to tension on the slack side as it should be.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...ge=product_info&cPath=4_30_57&products_id=864

 

[RT302]

This is a good idea if your already there. It inverts the drivers side tensioner to tension on the slack side as it should be.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...ge=product_info&cPath=4_30_57&products_id=864

Is this the same "secondary tensioner mod" mentioned above or should I be looking for something different? Thanks again.

 

[Roh92cp]

Is this the same "secondary tensioner mod" mentioned above or should I be looking for something different? Thanks again.

Yes same thing db252 mentioned, we have almost identical setups.

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