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Oil temp and piston slap

iufan993

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New GT350 track pack owner.

Through 500 miles of break in I have kind of been obsessed with the whole piston slap issue, because it just sounds so mechanically wrong. After reading this forum, many say that it improves or goes away after engine warmed up.

In my case it will completely go away if oil temp is 200 degrees. Doesn't matter that cylinder head temp seems to stay constant 200-205. Problem is it is difficult to get oil temp into that range. I have to spin it over 6k RPM a few times to get it there, which is not part of my daily commute. I can sit in stop and go traffic for 45 min and never get over 190 with ambient temps of 80 degrees.

I end up lugging around in 6th at 45 mph just so I don't have to listen to it. Reliably at 2100-2400 RPM slap is always there at lower temperatures.

Just for fun I covered the oil cooler opening with cardboard. On a Ten mile commute the oil temp got to 202. THEN it was a happy motor.

I have a vintage race car ( 302 V8 ) and typically wrap up the oil cooler during warm up until oil temp is about 200. Engine builder is adamant about not redlining engine at lower temps, but I run 50 wt racing oil. At this point my ear is pretty trained for valve train, piston slap, etc.

Very curious if others have same experience with the piston slap disappearing at specific oil temps. .

Ideally I want my engine to come up to temp much faster, and stay in the sweet spot.
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Spacebird

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Just for fun I covered the oil cooler opening with cardboard. On a Ten mile commute the oil temp got to 202. THEN it was a happy motor.
I've thought about doing this too. I live in a very hot part of the country so getting to over 200F usually doesn't take very long, but as it's finally starting to cool off I think I may block the oil cooler for street driving.
 

stanglife

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@iufan993 - I have exactly the same experience. Even here in FL, it takes a while to get the oil up to temp and I've found driving the car progressively harder as it warms up does speed that up - then the slap pretty much goes away 100%. Perhaps a partial block is in order. Thanks for the idea!

PS - I'd agree that oil should be at temperature before any high-rpm or high-load operation.
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