Official: 2018 Ford Mustang Refresh Detailed! (Options/Features, Specs, Photos, Info)

[1320']

As someone who has owned several Subarus, FUCK NO.

Boxer engines suck, period. It's just a poor design for reliability.

Head gasket manufacturers love them!

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[Darkane]

Boxer 12 testarossa style.

 

[jjw]

As someone who has owned several Subarus, FUCK NO.

Boxer engines suck, period. It's just a poor design for reliability.

Not really. Look at Porsche.
Subaru stock cast pistons suck, and their design has some weird compromises (dogleg exhaust ports on 1 cyl per bank, long exhaust manifold runners to turbo etc).
Its not the boxer design.
Now... Ford tooling up to build a flat eight of entirely new design (pretty much requiring an all new casting plant and machining plant), and then fitting it between the frame rails of a platform that is already tight with a coyote?
Wow.

 

[Aarron_M]

Yeah, the boxer isn't the problem. And there's plenty of Subaru's on the road with over 100k miles that'd testify to that.

The boosted motor's weak point is the cast pistons.

 

[1320']

Yeah, the boxer isn't the problem. And there's plenty of Subaru's on the road with over 100k miles that'd testify to that.

The boosted motor's weak point is the cast pistons.

Certain models of the boxter design ARE a problem.

The EJ257 does have a good amount of problems with their headgaskets and other associated problems.

 

[jjw]

Ok, this may be splitting hairs and I’m going way OT, but there is a big difference between “problems with the boxer design” and being sensitive to modification etc. I’m pretty sure he means over 100k miles with elevated power levels. But, you can also put on a CAI and not recalibrate MAF curve and blow an EJ up the first time you go WOT.
EJ2.5s suck for people who don’t understand them, and the biggest flaws are the cast pistons and the people who typically tune them.
The subaru 32bit ecu is smart in that it can do a lot, but dumb in that it does very little for you. Garbage in, garbage out. EJ257s are extremely knock sensitive and tuners lacking subaru experience will easily blow them up if they don’t understand the ignition tables, knock detection settings and maf and load scaling, and how it relates to knock detection thresholds being set properly to pulling timing. You can’t tune it like other 4 cyl turbos or expect an aggressive dyno tune to properly deal with knock on the street/track.
There are stock motors with quality e85 tunes pushing 400-500whp (500-600chp) with lots of abuse for 50k+ miles. A motor with forged rods and pistons built by a good shop can handle 80k+ miles at close to 600whp before you should start looking at a bearing/ring refresh. There are unfortunately way more shops that can’t build an ej shortblock correctly then can, and way more tuners that can blow them up then know what they are doing. What headgasket probs? Unless you are knocking on pump or lifting heads from over advancing past MBT on e85 (because of knock resistance) on stock head bolts... I’m not sure what you mean.
There are weaknesses in ej2.5’s from the factory, yes… very much so… but that is not simply because it is a boxer design… and we are talking about one engine family from one mfg.
TL;DR: Having horizontally opposed pistons is not the issue. Regardless, the idea of a boxer in a mustang is so dumb I'm not sure why we've even gone in this direction.


Edit: I see NA EJ2.5's do have very common headgasket issues because of the gasket used, so I stand corrected. I was speaking of turbo subarus.

 

[OX1]

Bro 100,000 miles should be a minimum a modern engine should get to not be a badge of honor. "Gee willickers my motor made It to 100k, it's the best motor ever!"

Yup, the woman had a 2009 base Impreza that didn't make it 100K without
oil leaking from a head gasket. Seems to really do it right (ie, have room
to clean block surfaces corrrectly), engine had to come out.

Nursed that thing another 20K and traded it in. Noisiest POS, even
when new, but it was the cheapest AWD we could get at the
time. At least trade in values were through the roof.

 

[carrotcake]

Unless you have no car then why not wait for the better '18?
It seems sensible to me, unless I am missing some wonderful thing about the old model that will go from the refresh.

Why not just wait for 2020/2021 new model instead of a refresh then?

 

[Mustangpursuit]

Any details on why there is that gap under the headlight on the 2018 which looks like an after thought, it seems from the photos, it is just a bad way to increase drag, since no intake is under the headlight. Current generation Ford Escape have similar lamp bottom design, but a plastic trim tab is included to cover the gap on the Escape. I bet if Ford sells it this way, maybe there will be an aftermarket trim tab to cover it up?

 

[GT Pony]

Any details on why there is that gap under the headlight on the 2018 which looks like an after thought, it seems from the photos, it is just a bad way to increase drag, since no intake is under the headlight. Current generation Ford Escape have similar lamp bottom design, but a plastic trim tab is included to cover the gap on the Escape. I bet if Ford sells it this way, maybe there will be an aftermarket trim tab to cover it up?

I wonder if it's to get some airflow around the back of the headlight to help keep the LED bulb cool? Thought LEDs can run pretty hot. Hard to say.

 

[Hi-PO Stang]

I thought LEDs were suppose to run cooler.

 

[GT Pony]

I thought LEDs were suppose to run cooler.

After market LED headlight bulbs have active cooling fans, so apparently something is getting pretty hot.

 

[Mt-82 whine]

Why not just wait for 2020/2021 new model instead of a refresh then?

Come on now. A few months vs a few years. Especially knowing the performance updates and available options on the 2018 (if they interest you) are an improvement. The 2018 is what the 2015 should have been.

 

[Ebm]

.

Come on now. A few months vs a few years. Especially knowing the performance updates and available options on the 2018 (if they interest you) are an improvement. The 2018 is what the 2015 should have been.

That's laughable. What an ignorant statement. The 2015 is/was just fine. The 2018 definitely isn't what the 2015 should have been. They made some pretty big changes in 2015. Don't really care all that much about anything on the 2018 car. More power for the average person? Won't be able to use it. The front end? Downgrade. Magneride? People won't push their car hard enough to make a difference. Everything on the 2018 is a want, not a need.

 

[foghat]

I thought LEDs were suppose to run cooler.

After market LED headlight bulbs have active cooling fans, so apparently something is getting pretty hot.

I thought LEDs were supposed to run cool as well.

From a post I found at anandtech - is long but informative. Though maybe not %100 applicable as he is talking about screw in leds for the home:
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Incandescent: A filament is heated to a few thousand degrees. It gets so hot that it puts out visible light. The objective here is to ensure that that hot filament stays safely inside the bulb, mainly so that it doesn't set your house on fire. That's why you'll see the warnings on fixtures: "Do not use exceed a 75W bulb in this fixture." If you do, there can be excessive heat buildup in the fixture to the point that it will be damaged, or you'll have a fire.
The overwhelming majority of energy going into an incandescent light is turned into heat right away. A very small amount of it is turned into visible light.

LED: The junction temperature of the emitter itself is usually going to be rated to a maximum of somewhere around 135°C (275°F), but it's preferable to keep the emitter below 85°C (185°F). The cooler it can be kept, the longer it will maintain its light output. So with LED, the idea is to get as much heat away from the emitter as possible. That's why you'll end up with a hot casing of an LED lightbulb. The casing is hot because it's trying to dissipate the heat of the electronic driver circuit and of the LEDs themselves. The unfortunate fact is that the common Edison screw-in socket was not made with the goal of efficient heat transfer in mind. LED lights have to do whatever they can to keep the emitters cool. Early on, this meant simply using fewer LEDs and driving them with less power, so those lamps were often dim. (Or some manufacturers would simply run the LEDs at excessive temperatures, resulting in greatly diminished product life.)
This is a lamp that looks like it was designed with LEDs in mind. The reflector should have been designed assuming a single emitter source at the base, rather than a bulb in the middle, and there's a big heatsink in the back.

Why is it still hot? LEDs also aren't very efficient when you look at energy-in versus energy-out and visible light. I've got a design guide here from Philips (I work with LEDs) that was published in 2010. It shows that LEDs convert 15-25% of the incoming energy into visible light. The rest of the energy is lost as heat, either due to internal voltage drop in the die, or because the emitter die itself is highly refractive, which causes some of the generated light to reflect back into the die rather than leave. That light strikes the die and heats it up.
That's for a white LED. A white LED is made up of a blue emitter with a phosphor coating. The blue light hits the phosphor coating, which in turn fluoresces and emits yellow light. Some of that light is simply absorbed though, which heats up the phosphor. Some of the blue light also passes through. Your eyes see this mixture of blue and yellow light as white light.

So you've got heat losses in the electronics to regulate the power that the LEDs need, losses in the emitter die, and losses in the phosphor. To keep all of that stuff running properly, the heat needs to be removed.
Even after all those losses, LED is still better than incandescent.

Your LED bulb also feels hot because it's likely made of aluminum.
If you have a block of warm wood and a block of warm aluminum, both at the same temperature and warmer than body temperature, the aluminum will feel much warmer than the wood. That's because the aluminum is a better thermal conductor. The wood is an insulator. So the aluminum is going to freely dump its thermal energy into your hand, whereas the wood is not able to.

It's the same reason why a metal pot sitting unused on a shelf will feel colder than a plastic container in the same room. The metal is a good conductor, so it will more freely absorb thermal energy from your hand, and that in turn cools down your hand and the nerves in it, which makes it feel colder than the plastic of the same temperature.
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