OBD still reading ”not ready” I have tried everything

Discussion in 'Forced Induction - 5.0L V8 Engine' started by Tomlouns, May 19, 2019.

  1. Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    #1 Tomlouns, May 19, 2019
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
    Whipple stage 2 gen 3
    Kooks LT with green flow cats 3 inch magnaflow street.
    95lb dw injectors
    Auto
    2015 gt
    Stock FP with bap

    Yes, I have done 4 full drive cycles over the last two weeks... I have also driven about 350 miles ...

    These drive cycles are a real PITA with and auto... and take about two hours of driving each time .

    I am running PBD emissions tune...

    Car is running well and no CEL .

    Questions:
    1. Is anyone running the same setup with emissions working?
    2. I think it may be much harder for Autos to go “ready” is this the case ?
    3. What are your thoughts on what I should do next?
    4. I am starting to think it is tune related ... am I wrong ?
     
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  2. Ruiner46

    Ruiner46 Well-Known Member

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    Which readiness monitor isn't ready? May be a silly question, but in all your recent driving, have you given it some full throttle runs? I seem to remember someone who didn't get a monitor reset because they were too easy on it.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    4D938831-9125-44B8-A597-3B8B6DC59C3B.jpeg
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    1. I have also done a few pulls up to about 80 at the end of each drive cycle... do I need to go longer ?
    2. The 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to 45 is hard... as you know it just wants to smoke the tires ... I have tried this with and without tc on and do the best I can... but if you put the gas 1/2 down it is a smoke show... either way I think I did what needed to be done here.
    3. (This one cant be done as it is written.)The one that says go to 50 for 15 seconds, then stop , then go to 40 for 30 SEC. Then put it in over drive... and take it to 50 for 30 SEC. This really can’t be done because until I get to about 43... meaning it will not go into 6th until you get to about 43mph... other than these two tests I know I am doing them right...
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    633C4FA0-1D57-47E3-9487-36AC1B0925D6.jpeg B1F827DE-35C3-4E31-ADF7-954DBB1CC2CA.jpeg 6EC3925D-459F-416D-9925-CD957761AD95.jpeg CA890EA9-031E-4F06-AA0A-5B01E9670D9A.jpeg 44A95030-09FF-479E-A5E3-5C6BC8E78C7C.jpeg C8653167-1C09-4669-A380-4B87AE6E7A41.jpeg DF0D144A-BBBE-4DCA-ADFE-C66601AA8999.jpeg 325237BD-D3EC-47EC-96A9-0E7D7BFDB53E.jpeg Okay this morning some finally took... I really drove the car hard yesterday... I think, I am going to drive the catalyst phase on a hot day with my foot on the brake... maybe even do something to creat some back pressure ?
    I get the feeling that the LT with the ceramic coating runs too cool or the three inch exhaust needs more back pressure... I may even do a couple of pulls and the do this test... thoughts?
     
  6. Zelek

    Zelek Well-Known Member

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    It's your headers. It always is. I ran into the same problem with my n/a setup. It's possible that it's a voltage issue due to the extended distance the rear O2's sit at and use of extensions. I ended up passing inspection with everything set as unsupported rather than not ready.

    I have ceramic coating on my headers and it's not a matter of it running cooler. It just keeps more of the heat from radiating from the pipe, but it's not any cooler on the inside.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    In NY... I don't think there is a way around this... they need to read "ready". I was assured this wouldn't be an issue with this setup... Kooks LB with Green flow cats (7 hours labor and $2,000+ then lets add in the Mangaflow street cat back, $1,200 + 2 hours labor total $4,325 and it will not pass inspection). I will check the voltage after I give it two more tries... I really hope they go ready... otherwise I will have to go back to factory and pay another $1,125.00 in labor.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    41D23952-D079-4E2F-9591-A5FED76DB6F3.jpeg C1B286B2-4AB2-4BD6-8E59-4E1B49AF4801.jpeg Am I reading this right? Are my cats bad?

     
  10. Safridi22

    Safridi22 Well-Known Member

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    I hope you figure this out and i wish you the best of luck.
     
  11. Ruiner46

    Ruiner46 Well-Known Member

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    The internet answers you posted above are referring to narrowband O2 sensor diagnostics which don't apply to the wideband sensors used in the Mustang. They don't toggle 0-1V like a narrowband. The HEGO monitor refers to the wideband O2 sensors. Also the catalyst monitor might not clear until the O2 monitors have cleared. It probably uses the O2 readings to judge if the cat is ok. Either the headers are causing issues, or the tune, or maybe you just don't have enough highway/cruising driving time... sustained speeds for a long period of time. I have seen a lot of various threads about these issues. I can tell you that with my Whipple-based tune and stock headers, my monitors all clear within a day or two after flashing a tune, but I also commute 70 miles a day.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    I have about 375 miles on it... over 200 on the highway at different speeds. Every day now I do a Catalyst drive cycle for 15 mins. it only calls for 10 in the test. I have done over 10 of these now... I agree it is the cats or the tune... or both... from what I am reading online. It looks like might cats might be bad. I am waiting to hear back from Kooks... they only have about 1200 miles on them... and the car feels and runs good...
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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  14. Zelek

    Zelek Well-Known Member

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    I highly doubt the cats are bad. It's the tune. I've gone through this for an entire month. The second you put stock headers back on they'll go green after a bit.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    I was playing around with the scan tool... what are your thoughts on this?
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    What was your setup ? What tune were you running?
     
  17. Zelek

    Zelek Well-Known Member

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    ARH 1-7/8" catted long tubes, 2018 manifold, 2018 JLT intake. Lund emissions tune. I can get everything to go green except O2 / HO2. The rear O2's are located much further back than stock and require extensions to reach them. The crazy part is I could go back to a stock tune and the sensors would go green back when I had the stock manifold on. I can't do that anymore so I know it's the tune / headers.

    Majority of the tunes with the blowers are all based on having stock headers when passing emissions when they say their tune works.
     
  18. F1scamp

    F1scamp Well-Known Member

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    Where in NY are you located? I can probably help you out if you are local Albany area.
     
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    Tomlouns

    Tomlouns Well-Known Member

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    Poughkeepsie area
     
  20. jabrax

    jabrax Well-Known Member

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    Where are you getting the drive cycle information. The drive cycle i used reads very different. Nothing about 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. Damn near impossible boosted. It did mention 1/2 to 3/4 fill in gas tank. It stressed a steady throttle during the cycle.
     
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