Nitto R888R Or MT ET ss tires best street for boost??

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

I would say, Straight line most important. I don't run corners but i want predictability when I have to brake hard or turn fast when needed.

I'm not sure if you've made a decision as I haven't read the entire thread, but don't make the same mistake many people do and get a slightly wider but shorter tire. That actually makes traction worse because the contact patch isn't any bigger (maybe smaller) and there's more torque multiplication due to the smaller diameter tire. If you go with a slightly wider and taller tire, you'll have better traction because the taller tire increases contact patch size front to back and effectively increases the gearing, causing less torque at the rear tire road contact point. For example, if you currently have 275/40/19, you could go with 285/45/19 in a street tire (if that size is available and if it fits in the wheel well). It won't be a miracle cure, but it will be slightly improved.

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[DougS550]

I'm not sure if you've made a decision as I haven't read the entire thread, but don't make the same mistake many people do and get a slightly wider but shorter tire. That actually makes traction worse because the contact patch isn't any bigger (maybe smaller) and there's more torque multiplication due to the smaller diameter tire. If you go with a slightly wider and taller tire, you'll have better traction because the taller tire increases contact patch size front to back and effectively increases the gearing, causing less torque at the rear tire road contact point. For example, if you currently have 275/40/19, you could go with 285/45/19 in a street tire (if that size is available and if it fits in the wheel well). It won't be a miracle cure, but it will be slightly improved.

Right now the shops are having problems finding 325/30/19 drag radials. It looks like the US Goverment has turned back contaners with Nangkang Drag Radials. Sights show middle May. I don't want MT ET-SS and take a chance of wheel balancing issues.

 

[MachTT002]

I'm not sure if you've made a decision as I haven't read the entire thread, but don't make the same mistake many people do and get a slightly wider but shorter tire. That actually makes traction worse because the contact patch isn't any bigger (maybe smaller) and there's more torque multiplication due to the smaller diameter tire. If you go with a slightly wider and taller tire, you'll have better traction because the taller tire increases contact patch size front to back and effectively increases the gearing, causing less torque at the rear tire road contact point. For example, if you currently have 275/40/19, you could go with 285/45/19 in a street tire (if that size is available and if it fits in the wheel well). It won't be a miracle cure, but it will be slightly improved.

I’d totally agree….. on my Mach the pilot sport 4s feel sufficient

on my s197 I had 305/30/20 and it always felt like I was out of grip …. R888r’s were always my favorite on that car but I love my Mach , has whatever it came with from the factory with 10r

 

[DougS550]

I’d totally agree….. on my Mach the pilot sport 4s feel sufficient

on my s197 I had 305/30/20 and it always felt like I was out of grip …. R888r’s were always my favorite on that car but I love my Mach , has whatever it came with from the factory with 10r

I went with R888R because my tire guy could get them them in one day, tomorrow for $995 325/30/19, CASH, and I need to due my 0-7000k WOT, TC Off, pull and Data Log for Wengerd. And I will not do that with these rear INDY500. The Nankang are not available so I will try these out and see.

 

[nnnnnn]

I want tires I don't have to stop in traffic and do a burn out just to be able to run through the gears with predictable control and reduced spinning and still feel secure when going around corners or at spirited speeds. Which ones dod you like the best for all around street driving. Thanks for your help

You're describing a Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Now if you're going with a drag radial, that secure cornering feeling you're describing depending on what you consider it to be will not be the same. If you're considering pure drag radials, just go with M&H street drag radials. It's really difficult to have best of both worlds when you have high horsepower. Either turn the power down for street or accept that it's what it is on a RWD. On the street you have to remember that not everything is under your control as far as asphalt condition.

I just ordered the Michelin 4S, currently using the Michelin AS3+ for winter. But now we're in Spring and heading into summer so 4S will start to shine on the street as temperatures rise. I'll also be ordering some M&H drag radials either this summer or next summer for the track.

Also, some may disagree but if you're going to see rain or wet conditions, don't mismatch front and rear treads specs/brands especially if one has better wet handling characteristics than the other for your own safety. If it'll all be dry conditions you're driving in, then perhaps it makes sense.

 

[HKusp]

Hooking on the street with 700+ whp with traction control off is a serious adventure unless on a drag slick, or a lot of time has been devoted to the suspension set-up in a straight line. Trying to have your cake and eat it too is always going to be a compromise. There's no two ways about it.

 

[tdstuart]

This is not a credible statement esp since it appears you have a 2015 GT which make less power FBO E85 than Gen 3 coyotes, and have a huge trans disadvantage. Bolt on 6th Gen ZL1s run in the 6s and some high 5s 60-130 mph. That’s moving. Even light bolt ons are running high 6s/low 7s. With good conditions stock ZL1s run high 7s 60-130 mph and low 8s with average conditions. They can also run high 10s in the 1/4 with just a tire, otherwise stock. Perhaps you once raced a mild bolt on 5th Gen M6 ZL1 that wasn’t really trying?

Just raced a manual stock gen 6 zl1 and we were neck and neck. Couldn’t tell who would pull top end as we couldn’t run it out that long. I had a passenger he didn’t. I think it’s fair to say if I had no passenger I would have atleast been neck and neck with him till very high speeds.

Zl1s tend to be the slowest of the big 3. If a stock zl1 is comparable to a bolt on e85 gen2 gt then it should be a lot slower than a properly setup boosted 10 speed.

 

[robvas]

Just raced a manual stock gen 6 zl1 and we were neck and neck.

now imagine if it had been an A10

now imagine if it had been a bolt-on A10

 

[robvas]

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