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New set-up ---Thoughts?

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ArgentumS550

ArgentumS550

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As I said in post #13, I was getting some knock from the front end after install and took it back to the shop. They "checked" everything and said that these parts will just make noise and all was good. It wasn't and got worse. I finally took it to another shop that someone posted on here and they found a zerk fitting missing from an end link and there was no grease. I was told each of the others took grease so I'm thinking someone at Steeda forgot to grease them...obviously did on one since a zerk was missing! I've been driving it around and it looks like everything is fine now. To those of you who get greaseable end links or other parts, make sure they are greased before install.

Been a journey, to say the least! With needforspeed taking 4 months to get me the wheels (1st set had 3 wheels with bad paint and had bad customer service), two issues with Steeda parts (1st issue resolved with great customer service, though) and the 1st performance shop missing the knocking problem...twice!

So from the end of November to now, I finally get to drive the car with the goodies installed and no issues.
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Check06

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its seems common to be the endlinks or the bushings in teh suspension not being "clocked" properly after the car is lowered.

Glad you figured it out
 

TeeLew

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BMR front swaybar and endlinks would be my recommendation. The Steeda front bar seems to have more fitment issues. Whiteline also makes one, but it doesn't have collars to keep it from shifting side to side which I think is a critical feature.

I personally also like a stiffer rear swaybar, but the most common recommendation on the forum seems to be to just upgrade the front bar. Adding a rear bar its easy to go too stiff and get a car that oversteers more than you need/want for a daily driver. Its not for everybody.

A bigger front swaybar will both kill a little of the body roll and make the car transition a bit faster which is useful for high speed lane changes. Again, its a good idea to do your planned mods first and then see how you feel.
I'm one of the voices for a bigger front anti-roll bar and bigger front springs. Regardless of the roll-couple effects which these influence, I find the increase in entry stability, reduced overall chassis motion and reduce response time to out-weigh whatever additional understeer it induces. It's fair to add that I'm in an Eco car, so mine will naturally have less understeer than a V8 car due to weight distribution. It's also fair to mention that a V8 car *should* have more traction issues than I do (which would lead in the direction of more front roll stiffness).

In the end, you'll have to find what works best for you, but I always encourage people to err on the side of understeer. It's not just an issue of safety. I've always found a car with understeer to beat a car with oversteer on the stopwatch. It's less spectacular to watch and certainly less spectacular to drive, but, regardless of what nuggets of wisdom we find coming from Hollywood, "Loose is fast" is bullshit for everyone who is driving a big, heavy car and not on a 2+ mile oval.
 

TeeLew

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Maybe call Steeda and ask why they recommended plates instead of bolts.
They don't make as much money on the bolts. There's always the discussion of strength, but if you shear a properly installed camber bolt, it's because you've come in contact with something very solid and you probably have bigger fish to fry than just a pair of $30 bolts.
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