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Im back at home, giving this a bump

Updated, sold those

Updated, bumpsteer kit sold

Hey I'll PM you

Hey Todd, they are progressive springs that KW uses as for exact spring rate numbers im not sure. Best i've been able to find is on this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/kw-v3-spring-rates.96507/

All are new in box and packaging, was going to do a suspension overhaul with this but am no longer able to I also have new hardware front the front and rear struts to replace the torque to yield hardware for coilovers KW V3 P/N: kw-35230065 $2100 BMR SM760 rear upper shock mount $150 Steeda...

All are new in box and packaging, was going to do a suspension overhaul with this but am no longer able to I also have new hardware front the front and rear struts to replace the torque to yield hardware for coilovers KW V3 P/N: kw-35230065 $2300 BMR SM760 rear upper shock mount $160 Steeda...

Located in southern california, near santa clarita, AV, Bakersfield P/N: kw-35230065 Brand new in box, never installed $2000

common on the Vortech and paxton blowers, beefcake sells the "torque booster" options

Hard to not want to run it out with that P1X Car is a 2016 GT non-pp, stock trans with about 50k on it

I feel fortunate that i did the barton hybrid 3 shifter(Trans mounted) soon after the P1X install. Personally havent had much lockout experience that i can really note with 7800rpm shifts. Stock clutch for now although its beginning to show its weakness so its on the list of to dos

Barton hybrid 3 mounted to the trans. i like the feel/rumble it gives being mounted to the trans, no problems/lockouts with high rpm shifts to 7800 etc

Post up how it does for you, id be curious to know. My old MT82 (car has roughly 50k on it, P1X since approx 31k miles) is still going strong with a Barton Hybrid 3 mounted to the Trans.

2016 Gt non-PP, P1X stage 2, OPG/CS, 3.31s Recently did the roll race with Shift S3ctor at willow and i ran the car from 2nd with start speeds from 50 to 60. It pulls well, grab a quick 3rd gear and i was usually gone. I like the way car pulls hard into 7800rpm, i've been told to try 3.73s but...

Interesting but i guess not surprising. I do like the feel of the car with bars on much more though. Front is set to middle and back is full soft for now. The front is crowded, especially with a P1X stage 2 crank pulley added but it all fits. I greased them thoroughly so i imagine it should be...

P1X stage 2, big red race valve, supporting fuel, etc, stainless power LTH. My car has the false knock sporadically but i wouldnt change it. The power is great and very usable, i like it for use in turns as it is more controllable and less punchy. For drag or roll racing, just need to know how...

Just to add to this thread. Added BMR front and rear bars with there end links and it made a noticeable difference in keeping the car flat. The rear bar came with clamps that there instructions say to place on the inside of the bar but i wasnt able to due to the frame mounts for the rear bar...

its seems common to be the endlinks or the bushings in teh suspension not being "clocked" properly after the car is lowered. Glad you figured it out

Cool to hear, I'll try that

I wonder what the percentage of error is really, did mine a couple years ago and its been fine since. Definitely worth noting though and good future info to check