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New set-up ---Thoughts?

ArgentumS550

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This is a daily driver with occasional curve-carving day trips and, hopefully, and annual long road trip. No competition planned. Appearance/comfort plays a part in the choices with performance being the added benefit, as well.

On the way: Bilstein/Steeda progressive F & R, Steeda camber plates and alignment kit (555-4438), and Whiteline sub-frame bushings (KDT943). Sometime, I plan on the Steeda sub-frame brace, too. New wheels will be 19/10 - 19/11 with 285/35/19 and 305/35/19 respectively.

Thought on what I could do in the future that would compliment what I have going on so far?

Thanks!
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NightmareMoon

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Install all the new bits, drive it, see how it feels first. No need to just throw random parts at the car.

That said, maybe a front swaybar and endlinks (becaue the stock endlinks get bent).
 
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ArgentumS550

ArgentumS550

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Install all the new bits, drive it, see how it feels first. No need to just throw random parts at the car.

That said, maybe a front swaybar and endlinks (becaue the stock endlinks get bent).
Cool. Yeah, I didn't want to throw random parts at it...did a LOT of reading before I even came to the above parts purchase.

Its a PP1 car, so it looks like the rear sway bar is upgraded already. What size should the front be upgraded to? Brand? Who's end links would be sufficient?
 

NightmareMoon

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BMR front swaybar and endlinks would be my recommendation. The Steeda front bar seems to have more fitment issues. Whiteline also makes one, but it doesn't have collars to keep it from shifting side to side which I think is a critical feature.

I personally also like a stiffer rear swaybar, but the most common recommendation on the forum seems to be to just upgrade the front bar. Adding a rear bar its easy to go too stiff and get a car that oversteers more than you need/want for a daily driver. Its not for everybody.

A bigger front swaybar will both kill a little of the body roll and make the car transition a bit faster which is useful for high speed lane changes. Again, its a good idea to do your planned mods first and then see how you feel.
 
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ArgentumS550

ArgentumS550

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BMR front swaybar and endlinks would be my recommendation. The Steeda front bar seems to have more fitment issues. Whiteline also makes one, but it doesn't have collars to keep it from shifting side to side which I think is a critical feature.

I personally also like a stiffer rear swaybar, but the most common recommendation on the forum seems to be to just upgrade the front bar. Adding a rear bar its easy to go too stiff and get a car that oversteers more than you need/want for a daily driver. Its not for everybody.

A bigger front swaybar will both kill a little of the body roll and make the car transition a bit faster which is useful for high speed lane changes. Again, its a good idea to do your planned mods first and then see how you feel.
Thanks for the info! Yes, I will get this phase done and see how it goes. I've used Bilstein shocks on my past/current trucks (~20 years usage) and they've always firmed things up over stock. We'll see.
 

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GeorgeC

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This is a daily driver with occasional curve-carving day trips and, hopefully, and annual long road trip. No competition planned. Appearance/comfort plays a part in the choices with performance being the added benefit, as well.

On the way: Bilstein/Steeda progressive F & R, Steeda camber plates and alignment kit (555-4438), and Whiteline sub-frame bushings (KDT943). Sometime, I plan on the Steeda sub-frame brace, too. New wheels will be 19/10 - 19/11 with 285/35/19 and 305/35/19 respectively.

Thought on what I could do in the future that would compliment what I have going on so far?

Thanks!
I went with the steeda minimum drop springs, front and rear sway bars, G track brace, and a strut tower brace. I also put on sve 357 wheels from lmr 10's in the front and 11's in the rear with 275 front and 305 rear Nitto nt05's. The next thing I want to do is shocks. The car is a non pp 19 GT. It's being a non pp is the reason I changed so much all in one shot I'm not going to track the car though I might try autocross just to improve my driving skills. The mods I made might put me in a class that I won't be able to win in but it doesn't matter I just want to improve my driving skills. I'm 70 years old and I was able to handle the muscle cars of the 60's with no problem but with the new technology of the cars today I'm in way over my head and need a lot of improvement, I should say the new technology and my old age.
 

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This is a daily driver with occasional curve-carving day trips and, hopefully, and annual long road trip. No competition planned. Appearance/comfort plays a part in the choices with performance being the added benefit, as well.

On the way: Bilstein/Steeda progressive F & R, Steeda camber plates and alignment kit (555-4438), and Whiteline sub-frame bushings (KDT943). Sometime, I plan on the Steeda sub-frame brace, too. New wheels will be 19/10 - 19/11 with 285/35/19 and 305/35/19 respectively.

Thought on what I could do in the future that would compliment what I have going on so far?

Thanks!
Very nice setup for your goals. Iā€™m looking forward to hearing what you think of the Bilstein / Steeda Progressive pairing.

Its a PP1 car...
Iā€™ll echo @NightmareMoon in recommending a front bar. Lowering a PP1 car has some adverse effects on the OEM bar:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ected-blown-oem-pp-bushing-a-surprise.141151/

Iā€™m a fan of adjustable rear bars too, but for sure drive some miles on what you have before jumping into more and more. You may be more than satisfied as-is.

- Mike
 

NightmareMoon

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GT 550

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IMHO camber plates are probably not necessary for your intended use unless there's some reason why you need more camber. Possibly better to spend the money on RLCA bearings/bushings, FRPP knuckle bushings, and bearing top mounts for the rear shocks in that order. Then maybe some of the Steeda roll centre/bump steer correction gear. And don't forget a good alignment.
 

Grintch

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Camber plates are required for any serious performance use.
Now, if "corner carving" is a serious performance use likely depends on the driver, and maybe the road.
 

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GT 550

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Unfortunately there's no standard camber adj on the front. With a F 1.125/R1.0 drop you might get away without them, for example with a F 7/8" drop the camber is still fine. Also if you only need a small amount of adjustment to achieve a good road alignment, as opposed to a performance alignment, you could try these which are much cheaper and easier to fit:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-front-adjustable-camber-bolts-555-4124.html

Maybe call Steeda and ask why they recommended plates instead of bolts.
 
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ArgentumS550

ArgentumS550

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Unfortunately there's no standard camber adj on the front. With a F 1.125/R1.0 drop you might get away without them, for example with a F 7/8" drop the camber is still fine. Also if you only need a small amount of adjustment to achieve a good road alignment, as opposed to a performance alignment, you could try these which are much cheaper and easier to fit:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-front-adjustable-camber-bolts-555-4124.html

Maybe call Steeda and ask why they recommended plates instead of bolts.
Steeda said Ford didn't do a really good engineering job as far as the amount of adjusting possible if lowering and I think I read somewhere in the past that at 1" or more the plates are a good idea. Also, it was easier to dial in an adjustment with these than not (???). I guess its a part, in my case, that if it helps with the alignment woes of the car and able to not be on the edge of "getting away without them" its a win/win. Also, I'd hate to have "that car" that possibly couldn't be dialed in and have to take it all apart to have them installed. Preventive future spending, I guess.šŸ˜Š
Yes, I think I'll give them a call and see what the difference would be with the bolts.
 
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ArgentumS550

ArgentumS550

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Finally.
I ordered a new suspension/wheel/tire set up which is listed in my sig. After a horrendous ordeal with Need for Speed shipping and customer service for the wheels, Steeda and Discount Tire were great, I think I'm about 90% done. I've been driving the new parts for a month, now.

I like the feel and road handling so far. It does ride a bit more harshly when moving at lower speeds and hitting cracks in the road, which I was expecting. Other road issues seem to be smoothed out by the lighter progressive part of the springs. On the freeway, it is very smooth. Acceleration seems to feel better as the rear doesn't squat nearly as much as stock did and the wheels, themselves, are around 8lbs lighter each. Having fresh rubber to the ground also is a huge factor as I had very worn tires. The wheels are flush, but I do have a very small amount of tire poke (1/4", maybe?) *edit: rears only*.
I do have a knock in the suspension at very low speeds, such as coming out of the driveway off the curb and also sometimes with forward/backward hitting the brakes. I'm going to check the end links on Monday and the paint marks on other bolts the installer put on to see if anything moved.
As for the last 10%, may do the Steeda rear subframe support braces and ??? front sway bar.

Here is the result:

full.jpg
 
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Roadway 5.0

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Looks great!

I experience some very low speed slight harshness too with my X Springs and Bilsteins; I did also with Ultralite Springs and twin tube ProAction dampers (more so with higher spring rates). Itā€™s the nature of the beast with this chassis, suspension design, and lowering springs. Aftermarket shock mounts helped quite a bit in my old setup to smooth out the ride.

I did though ditch aftermarket shock mounts a while back due to incompatiblility with the Bilsteins, but am tempted to try them again now that options are available. Iā€™ll let you know if I pull the trigger and how they come out.
 
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bnightstar

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The Steeda front bar seems to have more fitment issues.
What fitment issues first time I hear about it ? Mine is fine no fitment issues as such.
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