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If you are using a stock shock or a stock OE dimension replacement you won't use any of the supplied spacers or reducers. If you are using an aftermarket shock that uses a 12mm shaft you will use the smaller ID reducer. The larger ID reducer is for the MangeRide shocks and the 12mm washer is for shocks such as Koni that has a longer threaded portion on the top of the shock.
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Scootsmcgreggor

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Just installed these.

Build quality is great, great price. Excellent value from J&M.

I’m amazed how much they improved ride quality. Not sure for anyone with stock RLCA bushings but after installing bearings the back of my car got super bouncy. Installed these and ride quality is better than even before the RLCA bearings. Smooth and initial shock stroke is damped finally.
 

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Just installed these.

Build quality is great, great price. Excellent value from J&M.

I’m amazed how much they improved ride quality. Not sure for anyone with stock RLCA bushings but after installing bearings the back of my car got super bouncy. Installed these and ride quality is better than even before the RLCA bearings. Smooth and initial shock stroke is damped finally.
Yep, removing the deflection in the mount lets the shock work much better. RLCA bearings + good dampers + mounts = a better ride for sure.
 

JKL1031

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I'd like to share my install of these with a concern using steeda shocks. The bushing insert they give u is instructed to go in from the top. However i felt that the shock needed lateral support though the bottom of the bushing. My first mind was to use the gold washer steeda gives you to put on their shocks(that would have locked the bushing and shock movement out and been a disaster) but there would have been an unsupported threaded area if u look at the bushing design. I decided to install the insert from the bottom to give lateral support from the shock threads to the walls of the bushing. It looks to be fine except after thought the machined(soft) aluminum piece is taking direct load from the shock. The other direction would send the compression load to the bushing which I imagine is harder.

Thoughts? I believe the oem shock has a bushing that is permanently fixed to the shock shaft. And is the correct diameter to fit inside the walls of the shock mount bushing. Basically without torque the shock could wollow around in the bottom side of the shock mount bushing because it is not supported laterally. Now even with no torque, movement from the shock would cause movement of the bushing.

20200418-151400.jpg


20200418-151414.jpg


Bushing is in in this shot. The shock is laterally supported from the threads to the wall of the bushing now and not just flushed by torque.

20200418-151811.jpg


Topside looking good

20200418-151819.jpg


Hope this makes sense lol
 
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I have Steeda non adjustable shocks. How would the install go? Bought these awhile ago, not installed yet.
 

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I still haven't installed. Planning on it but shop I use it closed right now.
 
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They will install just like any other shock. If it's the stock 10mm size shock you will use the reducer spacer and if they are the 12mm shaft you will either use no spacer or the supplied spacer to take up the extra shoulder area like the Koni's.
 

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They will install just like any other shock. If it's the stock 10mm size shock you will use the reducer spacer and if they are the 12mm shaft you will either use no spacer or the supplied spacer to take up the extra shoulder area like the Koni's.
thanks
 

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JKL1031

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I just feel that this is more solid

20200424-120408.jpg


Than this. Insert is in red.

20200424-120503.jpg
 

JKL1031

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The bearing is blue, the shock is yellow and the insert is red. You have a void when the bushing is inserted from the top.
 
 




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