Need help on how to fix this broken bolt dilemma.

[GhostWolf]

So I wanted to ground myights via the bolt on the strut tower (took power from knee.of the bolts in the fuse box), bolt feels really tight but i figured it's just tight. Well if snapped. And it snapped down low so I can't weld a nut to it. How should I go about removing it. I'm not sure what's below or around it because of I knew I would just drill it out a bit bigger and then tap a bigger hole and use a different bolt but I'm not sure if it's a nut welded inside of there or if drilling to far in will hit something etc. also I'm not sure why I can't add attachments to my posts so here's an imgur,

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[Tomster]

um.... drill it and use a bolt remover?

 

[GhostWolf]

um.... drill it and use a bolt remover?

The bolt remover I have is one of those drill it partially then it's supposed to bite and remove it, it's the speed out or something from home Depot. It barely works on not rusted bolts so I'm not confident it will work on this one which is very seized. I'll try it after work tomorrow but I can't tonight or my neighbors will complain. It just sucks since it's going to pour here tomorrow and I'm stuck taking my bike to work with essentially slicks

 

[Jaymar]

Start at the center and keep drilling out bigger and bigger. Eventually the EZ Out will get it or you will have annihilated the bolt to where you can just tap it out for the next one.

 

[GhostWolf]

Start at the center and keep drilling out bigger and bigger. Eventually the EZ Out will get it or you will have annihilated the bolt to where you can just tap it out for the next one.

So do I attempted to find an OEM bolt.ormjust get a bolt a size or 2 bigger and drill and tap it out to that size?

 

[ORRadtech]

Maybe I'm slow but why does that preclude driving the car? It's not a strut bolt is it? Just extend the ground wire to another point.

 

[GhostWolf]

Maybe I'm slow but why does that preclude driving the car? It's not a strut bolt is it? Just extend the ground wire to another point.

I'm not sure exactly why, but the car won't start with it not connected. It's just a ground bolt for the massive thick wire harness in the engine bay. ATM I don't have any wire even close to as thick as what's there to extend it with either

 

[K4fxd]

I wouldn't use an ez out. They are very hard and break easily. Buy a set of left handed drill bits, start small and go up in drill size till the bolt comes out or you drill it large enough to tap.

 

[Jaymar]

So do I attempted to find an OEM bolt.ormjust get a bolt a size or 2 bigger and drill and tap it out to that size?

Depends what size you land on. I'd shoot for factory size but if you are stuck otherwise, pick a bolt and go right up to that side instead.

 

[GhostWolf]

Depends what size you land on. I'd shoot for factory size but if you are stuck otherwise, pick a bolt and go right up to that side instead.

I know what size the OEM is since I can measure it but I'm. Not sure what the part number is to order a new one. That's my issue. Hell even if I drill it.ooem I done have any bolts ATM I could use for this that are quality or strong

 

[Jaymar]

You're going to need a tap too so might as well pick them up together. It doesn't look structural, it just holds down a ground so anything that stays put will do. In addition, be careful adding a ground to the same point, if you disrupt the connection like adding below the ring terminal would do you will cause far more problems than you want to imagine. I'd recommend securing this ground back and adding one for whatever you added.

 

[GhostWolf]

You're going to need a tap too so might as well pick them up together. It doesn't look structural, it just holds down a ground so anything that stays put will do. In addition, be careful adding a ground to the same point, if you disrupt the connection like adding below the ring terminal would do you will cause far more problems than you want to imagine. I'd recommend securing this ground back and adding one for whatever you added.

I would put the ring of what I'm adding on on top of the existing ground so that it gets a good contact between the too and make it tight so it has no issues. It's currently grounded to the battery but the cable is a bit short and I'm redo it all eventually when I get around to taking the bumper off again but it looks like a good place to ground stuff too. My issue is no diagrams seem to exist so I can't identify the bolt or get a part number

 

[GhostWolf]

You're going to need a tap too so might as well pick them up together. It doesn't look structural, it just holds down a ground so anything that stays put will do. In addition, be careful adding a ground to the same point, if you disrupt the connection like adding below the ring terminal would do you will cause far more problems than you want to imagine. I'd recommend securing this ground back and adding one for whatever you added.

Few updates, I managed to get an inspection camera below it and it appears to just be a nut and the. Open space so I'm going to drill the nut slightly bigger and then tap to the next bolt size I can. This is what the ground is currently at my battery. Just one of those ring attachments. Am I fine to put that on top of the other ground or do you still think it will cause issues? This is for the time being because the cable is super tight right now but once I either move the boxes it's connected to Ill have more slack for the ground or if that doesent work I'll just cut the ground wire and add a foot or 2 so I can route the wire much better. I'm going to leave the power tapped into the fuse box though instead of the battery,

 

[Jaymar]

Few updates, I managed to get an inspection camera below it and it appears to just be a nut and the. Open space so I'm going to drill the nut slightly bigger and then tap to the next bolt size I can. This is what the ground is currently at my battery. Just one of those ring attachments. Am I fine to put that on top of the other ground or do you still think it will cause issues? This is for the time being because the cable is super tight right now but once I either move the boxes it's connected to Ill have more slack for the ground or if that doesent work I'll just cut the ground wire and add a foot or 2 so I can route the wire much better. I'm going to leave the power tapped into the fuse box though instead of the battery,

Technically you are fine mounting the ground on top. I do it all the time. I just warn against it so people can avoid complications like water seeping in between or connections working loose because one twists the other. If you haven't made a gabillion connections in your life these things may not be readily apparent to you so it isn't a slight on you in any way.

If you pick a second site away from any splash, clear it and mount it you have a perfectly good ground that can't take out the entire car if it fails. It's up to you if the extra work is worth it.

 

[GhostWolf]

Technically you are fine mounting the ground on top. I do it all the time. I just warn against it so people can avoid complications like water seeping in between or connections working loose because one twists the other. If you haven't made a gabillion connections in your life these things may not be readily apparent to you so it isn't a slight on you in any way.

If you pick a second site away from any splash, clear it and mount it you have a perfectly good ground that can't take out the entire car if it fails. It's up to you if the extra work is worth it.

With it right it shouldn't spin against each other so I believe in fine there, Ive done a few connections before and haven't had any issues and in an old car (06 civic) I found it hilarious how they ground the car. There was a bolt on the trunk that the factory had 8-10 wires all grounded to the same bolt (couldn't get an exact count they were stacked really close) I'll make sure the bolt is tight and maybe toss some diaelecteic grease overtop to keep water away. But being in the strut tower it shouldn't get wet even with my gt500 style hood. I'll keep an eye on it though.

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