Need help identifying the correct audio plug

[Evolvd]

I’ve searched and searched so either I’m not using the correct keywords or it’s buried so far I haven’t seen it yet…but does anyone know which plug goes from the 12-speaker B&O amp out to the stock door speakers? Secondly, I know there’s pigtails available through Ford, anyone know which part number I need in order to wire up my own connection from an external amp so I can use the stock door wiring? I’d rather not hack up or splice into the stock wiring. Thanks!

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[Cathul]

What year is the Mustang? Maybe you can use the correct wiring harness from idatalink for your car?
The AR-harnesses have open ends for the speaker wirings for midbass and midrange in the doors.

 

[Evolvd]

What year is the Mustang? Maybe you can use the correct wiring harness from idatalink for your car?
The AR-harnesses have open ends for the speaker wirings for midbass and midrange in the doors.

I have a 21 with the B&O. After discussion with another member I’ve ordered the AF03 wire kit and it looks like I can use the plugs from that to carry the signal into the door speakers.

 

[Cathul]

I'm not 100% sure, but i think for the B&O system the correct harness would be the aFO2 harness.
At least that's what's shown when selecting the 2020 model with B&O system.

 

[StangTime]

I have a 21 with the B&O. After discussion with another member I’ve ordered the AF03 wire kit and it looks like I can use the plugs from that to carry the signal into the door speakers.

As I said in my reply to you, for NON B&O systems, you would use the AF03.
You need the AF02 harness like @Cathul said.
The amps have different plugs.

 

[Cathul]

With the B&O system you definitely need the DSR1 or Maestro AR or a Pac-Audio unit AP4-FD21

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21

The good thing with the PAC-Audio unit is, that you can still keep the stock amplifier while adding stuff on the fly like a subwoofer first, then an amp for your front speakers and so on. And, biggest plus... TOSLINK output option to an aftermarket DSP and amplifier!
And i guess it's more readily available than a DSR1 right now. ;)

 

[Evolvd]

Ah ok, well luckily Crutchfield will allow me to replace it with the correct harness. Looks like I’ll be needing the AF02 based on iDatalink’s info.
No already have the PAC Amp Pro installed, just need a pigtail to plug into the door speakers.

 

[Evolvd]

So here’s my install plan, if anyone thinks I’m missing something please let me know. I know some folks don’t like rear speakers, but I’m choosing to keep them.

PAC Amp Pro with Toslink optical output to JL Audio VXi Hub. Optical to a pair of JL Audio VXi amps. Speaker wires ran to driver kick panel spliced into OEM pigtail from AF02 for the door speakers. Tweeter wire ran separately to a-pillar. Rear deck speakers run active with own wires as well as stealthbox.

With this setup I shouldn’t need Forescan as the PAC picks up a flat unattenuated signal from the head unit. The PAC will also allow me to receive all door chimes and cross traffic notifications and control the volume of those separately.

Anything I’m missing or need to adjust?

 

[StangTime]

So here’s my install plan, if anyone thinks I’m missing something please let me know. I know some folks don’t like rear speakers, but I’m choosing to keep them.

PAC Amp Pro with Toslink optical output to JL Audio VXi Hub. Optical to a pair of JL Audio VXi amps. Speaker wires ran to driver kick panel spliced into OEM pigtail from AF02 for the door speakers. Tweeter wire ran separately to a-pillar. Rear deck speakers run active with own wires as well as stealthbox.

With this setup I shouldn’t need Forescan as the PAC picks up a flat unattenuated signal from the head unit. The PAC will also allow me to receive all door chimes and cross traffic notifications and control the volume of those separately.

Anything I’m missing or need to adjust?

Are you going to use the center channel in the dash?
I don't have any experience with the JL hub but if you need 8 channels of amplification plus a mono subwoofer, this sounds like the way to go. It will simplify your tuning. This one is going to cost a bit.

 

[OF5.0]

So here’s my install plan, if anyone thinks I’m missing something please let me know. I know some folks don’t like rear speakers, but I’m choosing to keep them.

PAC Amp Pro with Toslink optical output to JL Audio VXi Hub. Optical to a pair of JL Audio VXi amps. Speaker wires ran to driver kick panel spliced into OEM pigtail from AF02 for the door speakers. Tweeter wire ran separately to a-pillar. Rear deck speakers run active with own wires as well as stealthbox.

With this setup I shouldn’t need Forescan as the PAC picks up a flat unattenuated signal from the head unit. The PAC will also allow me to receive all door chimes and cross traffic notifications and control the volume of those separately.

Anything I’m missing or need to adjust?

Sounds like you are using VX800/8i and VX600/1i amplifiers. If so, you can probably skip the VXi hub. The VXi amps have a Toslink input and a Toslink output. Just connect both amps using one Toslink cable by connecting one amp’s Toslink output to the other’s Toslink input. Save the $$.

I’m sure that you know this, but you’ll be connecting the aFO2’s tweeter leads to your amp’s midrange outputs since the stock tweeter and midrange wiring is run in parallel. You ran separate tweeter wiring to the A-pillars, so you’re good.

 

[StangTime]

Sounds like you are using VX800/8i and VX600/1i amplifiers. If so, you can probably skip the VXi hub. The VXi amps have a Toslink input and a Toslink output. Just connect both amps using one Toslink cable by connecting one amp’s Toslink output to the other’s Toslink input. Save the $$.

I’m sure that you know this, but you’ll be connecting the aFO2’s tweeter leads to your amp’s midrange outputs since the stock tweeter and midrange wiring is run in parallel. You ran separate tweeter wiring to the A-pillars, so you’re good.

JL states that there is latency on the optical out on the amp. As you daisy chain amps it gets worse. I'm willing to bet it can be tuned out by adding delay to the other channels.

 

[Evolvd]

Sounds like you are using VX800/8i and VX600/1i amplifiers. If so, you can probably skip the VXi hub. The VXi amps have a Toslink input and a Toslink output. Just connect both amps using one Toslink cable by connecting one amp’s Toslink output to the other’s Toslink input. Save the $$.

I’m sure that you know this, but you’ll be connecting the aFO2’s tweeter leads to your amp’s midrange outputs since the stock tweeter and midrange wiring is run in parallel. You ran separate tweeter wiring to the A-pillars, so you’re good.

Actually I’m doing a VX700/5 and a VX400/4 because the 800/8 had been on back order for months and keeps getting pushed back.
The stealthsub maxes out at 300 watts so the 700/5 is perfect for what I need.
The issues with not running a hub is I would have to tune each amp separately and I wouldn’t have fader control and other options. Sure, there are workarounds but for $125 I’ll save the time and effort.
As for the OEM tweeter wires I’ll just cap them off and tuck them away. Then I can use the tuning software to cut the high range frequencies going to the 3.5” speaker keeping that as a midrange.

 

[Evolvd]

Confirmed the AF02 is the correct harness for the B&O system. Thanks for the assist!

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