Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil Wear Protection results!

[jasonstang]

What are your thoughts regarding Motorcraft advertising this oil with "Friction Fighting Formula" printed on the label? It appears they fell way short compared with other oils

I don't think film strength and fiction are the same thing.

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[Must_Tang]

I wouldn't call it conjecture. There is a point to their posts....his testing procedures do not mimic the conditions inside of an internal combustion engine (which even he states). The tests also don't provide any conclusion on what exactly running one oil over another has on engine longevity. And because every engine design is different, different oil viscosity will change the engines wear characteristics.

ratblog provides a single data point. You can use it to help you make a decision, but it's not Gospel.

A few quotes from the site:

"Regarding traditional American flat tappet pushrod V-8 engines specifically:

Stock or lightly modified versions of those engines are best protected by oils that provide 90,000 psi or higher film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance."

Note that we don't have any components in our engines that have wear characteristics similar to a flat tappet lifter/cam.

Again, the data doesn't seem bad...it's just incomplete. Oil A may be an "incredible" rated oil with a viscosity of 5w20, but oil B rated at "good" with a viscoity of 5w50 could provide far better wear properties for your engine based on the oiling needs.

Correct, we do not. We have rollers on the cam followers, and of course, have OHCs.

This is what gets me about folks - why not just get the oil with the best film strength that holds up at a higher temperature? It's not like the higher rated oils cost crazy money - they are about the same price. Folks dig their heels in on this. (I guess I'm digging my heels in here!)

Suppose this oil testing data was posted by someone that was a bit less abrasive in his writing tone? Would that make a difference??

 

[millhouse]

Correct, we do not. We have rollers on the cam followers, and of course, have OHCs.

This is what gets me about folks - why not just get the oil with the best film strength that holds up at a higher temperature? It's not like the higher rated oils cost crazy money - they are about the same price. Folks dig their heels in on this. (I guess I'm digging my heels in here!)

Suppose this oil testing data was posted by someone that was a bit less abrasive in his writing tone? Would that make a difference??

Film strength is only one factor. What about the oils ability to encapsulate contaminants and the results on the additives once the contaminants are removed? Again, those tests don't tell the whole story.

http://machinerylubrication.com/Read/30722/engine-oil-additives

 

[Must_Tang]

Right.

Let me officially say I am done with oil threads. I can't believe I let myself post a reply here!!

:frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty:

 

[1380KPOI]

Film strength is only one factor. What about the oils ability to encapsulate contaminants and the results on the additives once the contaminants are removed? Again, those tests don't tell the whole story.

http://machinerylubrication.com/Read/30722/engine-oil-additives

Changing your oil on a regular basis would solve the possibility of this issue

 

[mustang_guy]

Oh god. Not this stupid blog again. This is the worst way to pick oils.

 

[WildHorse]

Funny you mention Walmart's SuperTech full synthetic.

This is also funny:

"All Shell, Quaker State, and Pennzoil products say on the container that they are manufactured and/or distributed by Sopus Products, P.O. Box 4427, Houston, TX. 77210-4427, which is the same address as Specialty Oil Company, which is listed on the Walmart MSDS for synthetic oil (although Walmart also has a SuperTech Synthetic MSDS from Warren)."
;)
So it seems that WM Full Synthetic is manufactured by Shell, which also makes
Quaker State & Pennzoil..

 

[millhouse]

Changing your oil on a regular basis would solve the possibility of this issue

What, like 3000 miles? 5000 miles? 10000 miles? What mileage do you use for what oil? Do any of the "excellent" or "incredible" oils lose their additives faster than lesser oils? Do you see why picking (or condemning) an oil solely based on a single test that doesn't emulate the conditions of your engine is problematic and presumptuous?

 

[1380KPOI]

What, like 3000 miles? 5000 miles? 10000 miles? What mileage do you use for what oil? Do any of the "excellent" or "incredible" oils lose their additives faster than lesser oils? Do you see why picking (or condemning) an oil solely based on a single test that doesn't emulate the conditions of your engine is problematic and presumptuous?

I use the 5000 mile oil change interval benchmark for myself or 12 months, whichever comes first. My main concern is finding an oil with a high film strength at a cold start since the oil film is attached to the parts until the oil can be pushed through. At operating temperature it's all the same it me. I do not drag race

 

[Must_Tang]

[MENTION=25009]millhouse[/MENTION]: Nope, don't see your logic. Change it every 3 or 4 k. Or after a track day. It's cheap insurance. 40 or 50 bucks plus a half hour of your time.

 

[Braski]

Just keep a eye on your dip stick! More engine issues have come from lack of oil not the quality of it.

 

[Optimum Performance]

gt350 has a higher flow oil pump than the gt so I agree with engine design over oil. You can run the GT at 8k , high heat, or double the power but its out of scope. Probably like wanting the MT82 to handle 500 lb ft and power shifting.

Higher Pressure pump, 'same' gear set with slightly different tolerances in the housing.

I thought the GT350 has the same oil pump gear so how can it have higher flow?

Higher RPM will 'flow' more oil put basically makes more pressure due to resistance to flow. Same way 30#'s of boost on poorly flowing heads will make the same HP as 6#'s on good heads.

subjective call on my part. I don't have any data. But if you compare gt350 oil pump case, it has larger inlet and heavy duty spring. Same size gear though.

I haven't investigated the topic, but a quick google search produced this:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/06/choosing-the-right-oil-pump/
Choosing the Right Oil Pump

Limitations of Stock Pumps

Cavitation is obviously something you want to minimize or avoid because of the drop in oil pressure it causes along with the possible risks diminished oil flow can have on the bearings and valvetrain. Oil pump manufacturers have developed various pump designs that can reduce cavitation at higher engine speeds. One such trick is to enlarge the oil pump inlet port and use a larger diameter pickup tube (say 3/4-inch instead of 5/8-inch).


one of the photos is for an older GT, just for illustration.

Yes, you are spinning that pump faster so it is flowing more oil so a larger diameter pickup will cause less negative pressure which can aerate the oil (sucking through a straw vs a garden hose) and begin cavitation.

It's why the GT350 Pan and Pump kit is a good idea for RoadCourse GT's. Sustained high rpm and lack of baffling in the stock GT parts can cause issues at the extreme.

 

[1380KPOI]

This is also funny:

"All Shell, Quaker State, and Pennzoil products say on the container that they are manufactured and/or distributed by Sopus Products, P.O. Box 4427, Houston, TX. 77210-4427, which is the same address as Specialty Oil Company, which is listed on the Walmart MSDS for synthetic oil (although Walmart also has a SuperTech Synthetic MSDS from Warren)."
;)
So it seems that WM Full Synthetic is manufactured by Shell, which also makes
Quaker State & Pennzoil..

Perhaps someone should send in a bottle of Walmart's Supertech 5W20 Full Synthetic in to see at what PSI the parts would seize. I have a good feeling the end result will end up higher than 72K as the MC synthetic blend did. Whatever the case may be, you can be certain of individuals wanting to discredit the results

 

[WildHorse]

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

 

[millhouse]

I use the 5000 mile oil change interval benchmark for myself or 12 months, whichever comes first. My main concern is finding an oil with a high film strength at a cold start since the oil film is attached to the parts until the oil can be pushed through. At operating temperature it's all the same it me. I do not drag race

So why pic 5000 miles? Why not 2000 miles? 8000 miles? Do you understand where I’m going with this?

As for your film strength concern, without proper additives….that film strength can be greatly reduced after a few thousand miles depending on your oil of choice. You have to remember that the oils job is not only to provide sufficient film strength, but to ensure that film strength remains throughout the duration of use. Engine oil A may test out to be “incredible” but be absolute shit after 1000 miles. Remember, the oil is circulated through the engine and filtered. How much of those additives get filtered out has a huge bearing on oil longevity. There is a reason some oils offer protection out past 10000 miles without changing. This cannot be measured by initial oil film strength.

So you see, simply measuring film strength without taking anything else into consideration is a risky endeavor. There is a reason we don’t use racing oil with high initial film strength in our daily drivers.

Now with all of that said, I’m not saying that Motorcraft by any means is better than any other oils. What I’m saying is that it is totally adequate….and you aren’t going to notice any engine longevity by using any other oils. If you want to spend more on oil because it makes you feel better….awesome. Your initial post however makes it seem like everyone is going to have engine failure from using Motorcrafts inferior oil…which is total horseshit.

[MENTION=25009]millhouse[/MENTION]: Nope, don't see your logic. Change it every 3 or 4 k. Or after a track day. It's cheap insurance. 40 or 50 bucks plus a half hour of your time.

Gotcha, so I’ll light up $300+/year on extra oil changes…..to change oil at 3000 miles that doesn’t need to be changed until 5000+ miles. And in the end, it’s not really insurance if the engine oil is designed and formulated correctly to last 5000+ miles. I personally don’t enjoy draining clean oil for the sake of changing it.

Why don’t you change your oil after 1500 miles? 1000 miles? It’s cheap protection right?

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