Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil Wear Protection results!

[1380KPOI]

Most don't track/drag race the car yet change every 5K. Motorcraft is more than enough for that. I mean crap I put Walmart's SuperTech synthetic in my Silverado and did an oil analysis at 7,500 (10K changes according to computer) and they said it was probably good to 15K.

Funny you mention Walmart's SuperTech full synthetic. I almost purchased a quart of their 5W20 to send along with the Motorcraft bottle. Hell, it most likely would score much higher than the Motorcraft

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[1380KPOI]

The ranking has some relevance, but the real good info is looking at the wear protection at standard (230 F) and elevated (275 F) temperatures and seeing the difference. THAT is worth something for anyone that pushes their car hard (track).

I had the same thoughts regarding how well the wear protection held up with QSUD regarding an overheating condition

 

[mustang1]

I thought the GT350 has the same oil pump gear so how can it have higher flow?

subjective call on my part. I don't have any data. But if you compare gt350 oil pump case, it has larger inlet and heavy duty spring. Same size gear though.

I haven't investigated the topic, but a quick google search produced this:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/06/choosing-the-right-oil-pump/
Choosing the Right Oil Pump

Limitations of Stock Pumps

Cavitation is obviously something you want to minimize or avoid because of the drop in oil pressure it causes along with the possible risks diminished oil flow can have on the bearings and valvetrain. Oil pump manufacturers have developed various pump designs that can reduce cavitation at higher engine speeds. One such trick is to enlarge the oil pump inlet port and use a larger diameter pickup tube (say 3/4-inch instead of 5/8-inch).


one of the photos is for an older GT, just for illustration.

 

[Must_Tang]

Again, those results are not indicative of protection in all internal combustion engines.

Just one of the many discussions on his testing methods/results:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3120982

There's not actual testing done on the oil guy blog, just conjecture. Until another site posts test data, ratblog seems like the defacto info source.

Last time I posted stuff about the ratblog site, I practically got death threats!! I don't know why some folks are so against his data.

 

[millhouse]

There's not actual testing done on the oil guy blog, just conjecture. Until another site posts test data, ratblog seems like the defacto info source.

Last time I posted stuff about the ratblog site, I practically got death threats!! I don't know why some folks are so against his data.

I wouldn't call it conjecture. There is a point to their posts....his testing procedures do not mimic the conditions inside of an internal combustion engine (which even he states). The tests also don't provide any conclusion on what exactly running one oil over another has on engine longevity. And because every engine design is different, different oil viscosity will change the engines wear characteristics.

ratblog provides a single data point. You can use it to help you make a decision, but it's not Gospel.

A few quotes from the site:

"Regarding traditional American flat tappet pushrod V-8 engines specifically:

Stock or lightly modified versions of those engines are best protected by oils that provide 90,000 psi or higher film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance."

Note that we don't have any components in our engines that have wear characteristics similar to a flat tappet lifter/cam.

Again, the data doesn't seem bad...it's just incomplete. Oil A may be an "incredible" rated oil with a viscosity of 5w20, but oil B rated at "good" with a viscoity of 5w50 could provide far better wear properties for your engine based on the oiling needs.

 

[EFI]

There's a difference between inadequate oil flow to the engine and inadequate oil film strength. You can have the bestest oil on the planet, if you don't have enough of it then you'll lose the engine.

My guess is that engine blew because of lack of oil flow, not because the oil failed.

The higher the protection the better when you are pushing the limits...8k rpm, double the hp rating of factory, etc. I just bought the quaker state, already had one coyote fail for inadequate oiling...

 

[F1scamp]

There's a difference between inadequate oil flow to the engine and inadequate oil film strength. You can have the bestest oil on the planet, if you don't have enough of it then you'll lose the engine.

My guess is that engine blew because of lack of oil flow, not because the oil failed.

You have no argument from me. New motor i changed what i could to give it the best chance. Same with the oil. Actually just changed the oil tonight, ran it through a paint filter, i am paranoid with this thing now... lol

 

[Juben]

Probably like wanting the MT82 to handle 500 lb ft and power shifting.

/endthread :lol:

 

[jasonstang]

There's a difference between inadequate oil flow to the engine and inadequate oil film strength. You can have the bestest oil on the planet, if you don't have enough of it then you'll lose the engine.

My guess is that engine blew because of lack of oil flow, not because the oil failed.

Most modern engines work better with thin oil and high flow application because it cools the parts. Film strength is also related to temperature. Higher temperature lower the film strength.

 

[1380KPOI]

You need to take his ratings with a grain of salt. If you found out the difference between modest wear protection and incredible wear protection meant the difference between your engine lasting 500k miles and 515k miles...would you still spend the money on the incredible wear oils? He makes some inferences in his testing results do not mean your engine will last longer with one oil over the other...as his tests do not replicate the wear in an internal combustion engine.

There are some very polarizing reads out there on the subject.

What are your thoughts regarding Motorcraft advertising this oil with "Friction Fighting Formula" printed on the label? It appears they fell way short compared with other oils

 

[1380KPOI]

Not ot mention in Tony Alonso journal, in which he only uses MC 5w20, and a lot of oil testing at a lab, always yields outstanding results:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11952

I am looking at Tony's journal. Yes the MC has good results with plenty of additive package available in between his oil changes. However this does not indicate it has superior wear protection. It's a good thing for Tony that his vehicle is a daily driver instead of a weekend drag racer

 

[millhouse]

What are your thoughts regarding Motorcraft advertising this oil with "Friction Fighting Formula" printed on the label? It appears they fell way short compared with other oils

When looking at the addiditves, they appear to be quite rhobust. I thing you are grossly overestimating the benefits of spending $3 more per quart on other oils.

I am looking at Tony's journal. Yes the MC has good results with plenty of additive package available in between his oil changes. However this does not indicate it has superior wear protection. It's a good thing for Tony that his vehicle is a daily driver instead of a weekend drag racer

Cold starts are the number one cause of engine wear. What his oil analysis indicates is the motorcraft oil is doing an excellent job. Venturing down the 1/4 mile isn't going to change that, it's going to simply require an oil change sooner.

 

[1380KPOI]

When looking at the addiditves, they appear to be quite rhobust. I thing you are grossly overestimating the benefits of spending $3 more per quart on other oils.



Cold starts are the number one cause of engine wear. What his oil analysis indicates is the motorcraft oil is doing an excellent job. Venturing down the 1/4 mile isn't going to change that, it's going to simply require an oil change sooner.

I do understand the main cause of engine wear is from cold starts. And my understanding is that during these brief periods the last line of defense is the oil film before metal to metal contact. So why not have an oil with high film strength to aid during a cold start

 

[millhouse]

I do understand the main cause of engine wear is from cold starts. And my understanding is that during these brief periods the last line of defense is the oil film before metal to metal contact. So why not have an oil with high film strength to aid during a cold start

How much is enough? At what point do you start wasting money?

 

[1380KPOI]

How much is enough? At what point do you start wasting money?

If I can obtain a 5 quart jug of QSUD for $1.30 more than a 5 quart jug of MC synthetic blend at my local Walmart. I wouldn't necessarily feel that I'm waisting money

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