Midrange Depth

[mikes2017gt]

@MegaG A properly installed, EQ'd and powered 2-way setup with a sub(s) can sound as good as a 3-way setup. My Mustang is the first vehicle I've ever had with a 3-way setup up front, and I've had a lot of vehicles over the years.

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[StangTime]

OP,

I hope you got something out of my earlier posts, I apologize for jacking your thread

Mike,
After all this discussion I think I am going to stick to my original plan of a 2.1 system, see how that works and how I like it with no rear fill, get some measurements done, see where the deficiencies are and then think about next steps. This also gives me some info to share with the community for those who absolutely can't afford a 3-way, gives them a path they can follow.

I just got distracted by Morel discontinuing the Elate midrange since its true replacement (MM3) is a big step up in size and cost and I viewed the CDM 700 as a lower level midrange then the CDM 880, however, it may not be.

I am running a 2.0 system right now. No subs as of yet. 2 way component set: Hertz MP165P.3, Hertz H8 DSP and a 5 channel amp. I have got my tuning nearly done (I need to tone down some mid bass) but the system sounds freaking amazing even without subs. You don't need a 3-way system. It adds complexity and expense for marginal benefits.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Adding to what StangTime said: The 3-way system in Mustang, while providing some small benefits over a 2-way system, isn't implemented properly anyway. The mids and tweets are pretty far away from each other. You get frequency response and phasing problems that you have to fix if you want things as perfect as possible. Ideally you want the mid and tweet on the same plane, as close together as possible. Google "Point source driver" for more on that. Another name for point source driver is "coaxial" which have been around for years.

If Ford would've integrated the mid into the A-pillar right under the tweet, or even used a coaxial for mid/tweet response, that would've been completely ideal. I've thought about custom a-pillars integrating the midrange there, but as that's an airbag location I don't see how that's possible without making the a-pillars 2 pieces. I don't have those kind of skills anyway, but it's nice to think about it.

 

[Lightning Struck]

Speaking of Point Source, I'm interested in finding a good SQ solution for the center channel. Tentative plans are to use a Helix DSP.3 or Ultra which has center channel functionality.

 

[Lightning Struck]

I think after looking at all the specs, I'm going to end up with GB10's and GB25's with the SI TM65 Mk2's I've already got... The midrange depth and the tweeter diameters just don't seem to be able to work with the SI offerings.

 

[StangTime]

Speaking of Point Source, I'm interested in finding a good SQ solution for the center channel. Tentative plans are to use a Helix DSP.3 or Ultra which has center channel functionality.

With a properly time aligned DSP you don't really need to use a center channel.

 

[Lightning Struck]

I was just thinking it would allow for a 2 seat tune. I agree, with not needing it for a single seat tune though.

 

[StangTime]

I was just thinking it would allow for a 2 seat tune. I agree, with not needing it for a single seat tune though.

If you regularly have a passenger who appreciates a precise sound stage then by all means do the center channel and time align to the middle of the car. My system is tuned for the driver as I hardly ever have passengers.

 

[Cathul]

The depth of the cutout from the actual door surface to the metal behind it is about 3/4" as shown here.

So you've got roughly 1.5" mounting depth total, using the stock spacer. However: I discovered that the issue w/the mid is not the mounting depth, but the mounting HEIGHT. How far towards the door panel the driver sticks out.

Whats the actual depth when you roll down the window?

 

[mikes2017gt]

@Cathul I am 99% sure that the window passes behind that metal panel (that has the Dynamat on it in my picture) and not directly behind the midrange's magnet. That metal panel is the stopping point/maximum depth for any midrange you would try to install. Some people have cut that piece out or trimmed it to fit around the driver's magnet, but I'm not that brave. It might hold the whole door together for all I know.

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