Midrange Depth

[Lightning Struck]

I'm looking to start replacing drivers in my 18 GT. I've already got a set of SI TM Mk2's, and was hoping to be able to fit a set of M3 midranges also. Their listed mounting depth is 1.88". Will this fit without a baffle? Is there enough room behind the door panel to fit a baffle if one is needed?

I'm also on the fence about tweeters. I know the M25 tweeter that Stereo Integrity sells, would be a nightmare to fit, so what else is out there that matches the quality of SI speakers?

Thanks!

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[UserName]

I have been very satisfied with my Dynaudio and Morel front stage. Using SI for the subs. The Morels also didn’t have a problem fitting in factory locations, which I found nice.

 

[Lightning Struck]

Which mids and tweeters are you using? I'm guessing probably using BM's for subs?

 

[UserName]

Morel MT350 teeeters and CDM 880 for the mids. Esotar 2 650 for mid bass with BM MK Vs for sub duty.

@Lightning Struck

 

[Lightning Struck]

Was there much fab work for the tweeters? I have a feeling that the SI M3's probably wouldn't fit without hitting the window. I had never really even considered a dome midrange until you posted about the Morel's

 

[UserName]

Drill out the plastic welds to remove the factory mount and mount the new one in its place. I unfortunately don’t have pics except the finished install as I wasn’t there for when the work was done.

 

[Lightning Struck]

Now I'm toying around with the idea of using some Audio Frog GB25's. I know they'll fit for sure

 

[UserName]

Now I'm toying around with the idea of using some Audio Frog GB25's. I know they'll fit for sure

Please post results. I have been considering changing out to AF for the front stage for a change of pace.

 

[ean611]

To help, have some pics.

These are Hybrid Audio Legatia L3v2 Drivers. You can find their mechanical drawings here: https://hybrid-audio.com/files/manuals/05_Legatia-Components-Manual.pdf

As you can see, there's a lot of space in the center console area. For the doors, you can disassemble the door 3 inch assembly, as it's held on by two screws and some rubber cement. After that, I de-soldered the original 3 inch driver, and re-used those wires so I didn't have to cut or modify any wires in the car. With these plastic mounts, I was able to use some self-tapping screws to carefully push through the soft plastic.

Result is that you can re-use what you have to enable an install.

 

[Lightning Struck]

Thank you for the pictures! Your post was extremely helpful! Looks like the dimensions on the HAT's are within a mm or 2 of the SI M3's.

 

[ean611]

Thank you for the pictures! Your post was extremely helpful! Looks like the dimensions on the HAT's are within a mm or 2 of the SI M3's.

Glad that was helpful. I've done something insane honestly, as I just swapped those three midrange drivers, and then used the main info thread to buy components to build a RCA level intercept for the stock amp.

Basically, I'm running the 4 channel output from Sync 3 (shaker) to a DSR1, and the output of the DSR1 back into the stock amp.

With this, I'm able to retune, and balance things nicely. I'm still working on balancing the tweeter / midrange area, as it's a little bright given the HAT L3V2 has an insane frequency response.

Best part is I've not cut one single wire in my car yet

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