Making a 2017 RS3 Hood Scoop Functional??

[stanger1]

So, I know there are threads about Hood Scoops and such, but
every time I look at my 17 RS3 Hood Scoop, I think, if a person cut the front out of that, it's about an 1" gap across the front and then cut under the Scoop into the hood, it would be functional.
But, I have never acted on this as there is always the what if's.
Has anybody ever done this??
Reasoning is, that Hood traps a lot of heat under it and the small stock Extractors in the Hood now are worthless.

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[stanger1]

The thought of damaging this hood or the paint is holding my Tools back. Just a cut here, cut there, lol.

 

[subject617]

Aerodynamically the hood is more of a low-pressure zone, a rearward scoop would probably benefit more and act as a heat extractor.
Which is similar to what a ZL1 Camaro, or GT500 with their hood-vents do.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I'd be more worried about introducing other negative effects. The "scoop" isn't designed to be open. Letting air in should cool things off in theory, but it could also introduce hood flutter/front end lift. Look at how the GT350/500 hoods are designed. Neither of them have a "ram air" style scoop. Even the front grill honeycomb isn't completely open. People have drilled them out, only to get worse cooling. This is probably due to increased air turbulence making it harder for cool air to get where it needs to be. My Charger has an open front scoop, with an air dam/diverter right behind the opening. There's a lot more to it than just "open hole, let air in". Got access to a wind tunnel?

The open grills don't increase the pressure across the radiator, they might even reduce it. Higher volume of air at a lower pressure = same mass flow, but possibly lower pressure gap across the radiator (which is worse for cooling).

If you don't create an open path for air in a low pressure area behind the radiator, you can't easily force more air across the radiator. Also the the wider open grill increases drag at speed.

So a factory grill is giving the engine enough air for cooling, while keeping velocities up and drag down.

As for opening the hood scoop, its likely just to increase pressure under the hood, which aint great for cooling flow across your main heat exchangers, even if the air in the engine bay is a little cooler. Also, hood lift and/or flutter.

GT350, GT500, as well as the tiny vents on the 15-17 and 18+ GTs all extract air in low pressure areas to lower pressure behind the radiator and draw more cold air through the radiator from the front. None of them stuff more air (hot OR cold) into the engine bay.

 

[stanger1]

That's what I really liked about my 2013 Shelby GT500, is that huge Heat Extractor in the hood for the hot air from the radiator, etc., could exit via the huge heat extractor.
The 2017 Roush has the two heat extractors, but the holes in them are only about 1", which is not doing anything.
I have thought of opening that area up and modifying the Stock Roush heat Extractor to be more open.
Roush did release the Max Cool Kit for the 18+ which has the Fender Vents, which would help.
I have sent emails to Roush about purchasing just the Fender Vent, but no response yet.

 

[Ewheels]

That's what I really liked about my 2013 Shelby GT500, is that huge Heat Extractor in the hood for the hot air from the radiator, etc., could exit via the huge heat extractor.
The 2017 Roush has the two heat extractors, but the holes in them are only about 1", which is not doing anything.
I have thought of opening that area up and modifying the Stock Roush heat Extractor to be more open.
Roush did release the Max Cool Kit for the 18+ which has the Fender Vents, which would help.
I have sent emails to Roush about purchasing just the Fender Vent, but no response yet.

Talk to Albert at RaceLouvers.com for all your venting needs. All designs are wind tunnel tested and have CFD data to back up their claims.

I have install details in my build thread if you care to take a look. Very straight forward and no damage to paint if you prep correctly

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