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Magnetic Metallic J7 touch up paint

Joker721

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Has anyone been able to get the magnetic metallic touch paint from Ford and if so could post the part number?
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MAGS1

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Joker721

Joker721

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It’s a rock chip on the spoiler from a semi.
 

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Palma

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I have used the Dr colorchip on my mustang, f150, my porsche, and my wifes Porsche n suv. All of them matched perfectly.
 
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Joker721

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The area is about the size of the end of an Apple air pod bud/ear tips. Worth the price for the Dr color Chips?
 

#1ford

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I have used the Dr colorchip on my mustang, f150, my porsche, and my wifes Porsche n suv. All of them matched perfectly.
Dr color chip works much better and no blob!
 

Mach 307

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Don’t use that stuff, it’s total garbage. Dr. Colorchip is the best way to fix chips and scratches. With this stuff you can properly blend and it looks cleaner. The Ford stuff just sits like a blob of paint…
Can attest this stuff is awesome
 
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Joker721

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I take it their cactus gray is the same as the FJG?
 

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Joker721

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Based on their video, the paint looks much easier to apply than the typical Ford touch up bottle. I ordered the kit so hopefully it does its job.
 

Mach 307

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Based on their video, the paint looks much easier to apply than the typical Ford touch up bottle. I ordered the kit so hopefully it does its job.
Ive fixed honestly around 8 chips or so with it of different shapes and sizes. None have had any issues staying filled after washes, waxes and winter weather conditions.
 

Snakebyte

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One thing I've learned (the hard way) is consider the type of paint (i.e. enamel, urethane, lacquer.) Decades ago I used Dupli-Color which was a lacquer back then. I noticed that over time touched up areas began spider webbing. The cracking, I learned from painter friends, is a downside to lacquer. Keeping the car indoors was key to longevity, but that was not really an option for me back then.

I learned that enamel is a better option to avoid cracking, but it has its challenges as well. For those who are familiar with MAACO body shops will know that enamel is on the lower price tiers. I can tell you from experience on my son's first car, that after 1.5 years in the Tennessee sun, the enamel was beginning to show its age.

Having worked at a vehicle manufacturing plant I learned that urethanes are more durable over time, especially with a good clear coat. Of course not all urethanes are created equal. There are 1K (one part) and 2K (two part). While the two part is more durable in wear prone situations, I find 1K does the job for me when touching up non-wear areas. Personally, I get aerosol 1K Urethane from R&E Paint supply. After shaking the can quite well (critical step for metallics) I then spray into the cap or other small container for a reservoir. I then apply paint to small chipped areas using a quality fine brush.

With metallic colors, you'll want to pay attention to the metallic flakes that float on the liquid paint surface of the cap/container, and pick/choose from the surface where the metallic composition and color balance seem to best match the area surrounding the damage. After the basecoat buildup meets your expectation, you can follow up, applying 1K clear urethane over the repair, using the same, small brush application technique.
 
 








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