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Lund Tuning ProCharger Poll

Chargedguard5.0

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Procharger HO kit p1
8.1 lbs of boost
3.85 pulley
545rwhp
439rwtq
Lund tune and still surging at 3k not as bad as the Procharger 1st tune but it's definitely still there.
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tevol1

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Procharger Stage 2 w/Jms Bap, 1000Id's
D1SC
15Lbs
Fuel is Ms109
673whp
534tq

Car is Automatic

Lund tuned
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Procharger Stage 2 w/Jms Bap, 1000Id's
D1SC
15Lbs
Fuel is Ms109
673whp
534tq

Car is Automatic

Lund tuned
That's right in line with mine on race gas I hope with my new smaller pulley. I hope.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!
 

15GTPP

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I need help everyone. I've double checked everything and the car still is only boosting 3-4lbs. I've got a base HO kit with a red race valve and Gibson exhaust. Any ideas?
 

Phils15GT

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Make sure you dont have your filter on the intake pushed up too far on the pipe as I believe that could choke it out. How are you measuring the boost, mechanical gauge? You try tightening tensioner for belt? All couplers tight?
 

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15GTPP

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I actually fixed the filter last time you mentioned that so I don't believe that's the problem. Belt seems to be tight and I also changed to t bolts and those are tight. I have a mechanical boost gauge. It doesn't even hit 5 psi, real weird.
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Hmm... Check that ypur race valve is actually shutting all the way and not venting what would be boost pressure under load. Then the hose run from the intercooler to the throttle body, check for any bends that are flattening out, especially the last turn to the throttle body. Did you pull the bumper back off to check for leaks at the intercooler? I blew my passenger side intercooler hose off once and replaced it with a silicone hump hose for flex.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!
 

15GTPP

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Race valve is good. Yeah I've taken the bumper off plenty of times now and there doesn't seem to be any leaks. I even sprayed soapy water on all the connections. What do you mean by flattening out on the cold side? That's my last hope haha.
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Race valve is good. Yeah I've taken the bumper off plenty of times now and there doesn't seem to be any leaks. I even sprayed soapy water on all the connections. What do you mean by flattening out on the cold side? That's my last hope haha.
When I look at the last hose from my metal pipe to the throttle body, it has enough bend that the tubing is oblong instead of round. It has warped to be wider and thinner because of the bend. I'm still making boost but I keep wondering if this bend is a problem or not. If I can't sort out the surging and power, I'll fabricate something for this piece as well.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!
 

Toothless

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Lund Remote tuned with the specs below.

Car is a PP car (manual w/ 3.73 gear) and BUCKs and SURGES like an SOB. Horrible part throttle driving that has yet to be corrected by the tuner. They keep blaming the Surge Valve. ProCharger keeps blaming the tune. So FRIGGIN frustrating.

1. Kit: HO kit with D1SC
2. Boost: 8-9 psi
3. 4.38" Pulley
4. 93 octane - 10% Ethanol
5. 604 whp/480 ft lbs (Dynojet STD correction)

It is a late production kit, bought a couple months ago. Has the upgraded intake tube that fits very good. Easy to install.

I have a hard time believing that ANYONE with a manual trans PP car has NO BUCKING at all with a Lund tune. UNLESS you have breathers on the car, disabled IMRC or swapped to a 11-14 manifold.

ANYONE????
 

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Process

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Mines not Lund tune, still runs like crap.
 

Toothless

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Do you have the stock 2015 manifold? Or IMRC free one?
 

Process

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Do you have the stock 2015 manifold? Or IMRC free one?
I've ran both. Had it kind've licked but then had major hesitations going into WOT. It's all in the torque/inverse tables and the demand tables. Finding someone to nail them in is tricky.
 

Nemesys

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Lund Remote tuned with the specs below.

Car is a PP car (manual w/ 3.73 gear) and BUCKs and SURGES like an SOB. Horrible part throttle driving that has yet to be corrected by the tuner. They keep blaming the Surge Valve. ProCharger keeps blaming the tune. So FRIGGIN frustrating.

1. Kit: HO kit with D1SC
2. Boost: 8-9 psi
3. 4.38" Pulley
4. 93 octane - 10% Ethanol
5. 604 whp/480 ft lbs (Dynojet STD correction)

It is a late production kit, bought a couple months ago. Has the upgraded intake tube that fits very good. Easy to install.

I have a hard time believing that ANYONE with a manual trans PP car has NO BUCKING at all with a Lund tune. UNLESS you have breathers on the car, disabled IMRC or swapped to a 11-14 manifold.

ANYONE????
Mine is Lund tuned, and P1SC with race valve. I get VERY light surging occasionally, but I have daily driven mine with no issues and BARELY even notice anymore. Mine was tuned out. Like I said, I have VERY LITTLE surging, its barely noticeable. I can drive my car normal and not feel anything unless Im cruising at 80mph and very light on the throttle. Everywhere else its fine.
 

Toothless

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Mine is Lund tuned, and P1SC with race valve. I get VERY light surging occasionally, but I have daily driven mine with no issues and BARELY even notice anymore. Mine was tuned out. Like I said, I have VERY LITTLE surging, its barely noticeable. I can drive my car normal and not feel anything unless Im cruising at 80mph and very light on the throttle. Everywhere else its fine.
Is yours a Performance Package car with the 3.73 gearing? I think they seem to do it the worst. Higher mechanical advantage of the lower gearing, makes the bucking worse. More torque output during the bucking.

I can daily drive mine too. But could never take it to a mountain road or road coarse where part throttle is needed. You switch up to the next gear and it bucks like wild. If I stay in one gear I cant get on and off the gas and it wont buck except where it should. The upshifting is where mine bucks violently. Enough where it spins the tires, as was confirmed on the datalogs, and my foot was at part throttle.

Mine runs great every where else, except after an upshift. Then bucks crazy.
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