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Low Brake Fluid Sensor problem

Daniel Reid

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Recently my mustang has been indicating that im low on brake fluid.It only does this when the car is under acceleration,braking and when i shift. (basically a slight sudden change in the cars motion) I checked under the hood and was fine on brake fluid. I took my car car to the dealer and they noticed the light was coming on as well. But said they have never heard of the problem before and want me to leave the car over night with them.(which i don't want to do ) I was just wondering has anyone had this problem before. Im thinking its something with the sensor or the master cylinder.
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BMR Tech

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Is it JUST showing the brake fluid symbol? Or is it also throwing ABS / Advancetrac lights?
 
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Daniel Reid

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Just the "Low brake fluid symbol!" flashes on the screen. Along with chimes/dinging
 

GT Pony

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Probably a flaky sensor if the master cylinder is full of fluid.
 

FBO5.0

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Just the "Low brake fluid symbol!" flashes on the screen. Along with chimes/dinging
Hey did you ever figure this out? Got the same problem. Would save me some time trouble shooting if you did.
 

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Ppetro08

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Hey did you ever figure this out? Got the same problem. Would save me some time trouble shooting if you did.
This just happened to me as well, I was in the mountains and my car was sitting on a steep incline for an extended period of time, now whenever I go downhill it shows the warning.
 

Elp_jc

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Are your cars manual? They might be leaking from the clutch line, which is super tight (should be longer). You need to push it in, add a zip-tie to the end of it (to prevent dislodging), AND zip-tie it to the metal brake line, so it's level, and doesn't pull down and out again. Mine was leaking with all of 60 miles on the clock, but not on the floor yet (thankfully). Some actually dislodge completely, if not caught on time.
 

Ppetro08

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Are your cars manual? They might be leaking from the clutch line, which is super tight (should be longer). You need to push it in, AND zip-tie it to the metal brake line, so it's level, and doesn't pull down and out again. Mine was leaking with all of 60 miles on the clock, but not on the floor yet (thankfully). Some actually dislodge completely, if not caught on time.
Mine is a manual, I remember reading somewhere someone was saying it was leaking into their footwell, anywhere specific to look that would be easy to tell where it's leaking from? I haven't seen and spots on the ground under my car.
 

Elp_jc

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On the line hooked to the brake fluid reservoir. Below is my fix. You can see the 2 zip-ties I used. Hope it helps.

Bullitt clutch line.JPG
 

Ppetro08

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On the line hooked to the brake fluid reservoir. Below is my fix. You can see the 2 zip-ties I used. Hope it helps.

Bullitt clutch line.JPG
You're a genius! It was definitely loose. Is it okay to top off brake fluid back to the top? I don't want any bubbles in the lines.
 

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Elp_jc

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Is it okay to top off brake fluid back to the top?
Glad I could help. And yes, I always like to have brake fluid at the very top line when car is new, or with new pads. After a leak, I'd also top it off to the max, and check fluid level periodically, to make sure you don't have any others. But keep in mind you'll probably have to suck from fluid when you replace pads with new ones. Now, make sure you use the correct fluid, which is not mentioned on the cap. It has to be DOT4 LV, not just regular DOT4.

Finally, as long as your clutch line was already attached, you shouldn't have air deep in your clutch, but people reported an improvement after securing that line. Hope that was the end of your issues :D. Take care.
 

Ppetro08

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Glad I could help. And yes, I always like to have brake fluid at the very top line when car is new, or with new pads. After a leak, I'd also top it off to the max, and check fluid level periodically, to make sure you don't have any others. But keep in mind you'll probably have to suck from fluid when you replace pads with new ones. Now, make sure you use the correct fluid, which is not mentioned on the cap. It has to be DOT4 LV, not just regular DOT4.

Finally, as long as your clutch line was already attached, you shouldn't have air deep in your clutch, but people reported an improvement after securing that line. Hope that was the end of your issues :D. Take care.
Unfortunately something else did happen lol. I went to check how secure it was and it the pressure pushed a bunch of fluid out, eventually it stopped. It wasn't a ton but it wasn't a few drops. I was able to get it back on. I checked the clutch pedal and it felt firm but I'm worried now it def has air. What do you think?
 

Elp_jc

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Unless the line was disconnected for a long time, you should be fine. And air would be at the top of the system anyway, so easily 'burped' while using the clutch. If you don't feel anything weird, it's perfectly fine. When it feels spongy, repeatedly depressing and releasing the clutch pedal is reportedly the way to get rid of most air bubbles, for future reference. Another method, due to the lack of a bleed valve, is with a pressure bleeder on the brake reservoir, but I don't like that, especially with a flimsy clutch hose attached to it, but also as an FYI. Finally, make sure to put a zip-tie at the front of the clutch hose (tightened well), as shown on my pic. Hope this helps.
 

Ppetro08

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Unless the line was disconnected for a long time, you should be fine. And air would be at the top of the system anyway, so easily 'burped' while using the clutch. If you don't feel anything weird, it's perfectly fine. When it feels spongy, repeatedly depressing and releasing the clutch pedal is reportedly the way to get rid of most air bubbles, for future reference. Another method, due to the lack of a bleed valve, is with a pressure bleeder on the brake reservoir, but I don't like that, especially with a flimsy clutch hose attached to it, but also as an FYI. Finally, make sure to put a zip-tie at the front of the clutch hose (tightened well), as shown on my pic. Hope this helps.
You're the man. Thank you for easing my mind. I topped it off and slow pressed the clutch in out several times and while driving for a bit clutched in and out while shifting slowly for a day just to make sure everything felt fine. All seems fine and I'm gonna zip tie that sad excuse of a job well done from ford.
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