Lost [insert driveline piece here] today. I suspect it's a clutch. 2015 GT PP 6MT.

[15GTPPinCO]

Passed a Chevy today and lost the clutch on a 2-3 upshift. Went from totally "fine" to not able to move in about 3 seconds from the next stoplight. Car is new to me by about 2500 miles, it's just out of powertrain warranty from ford, 61k miles but has a warranty from the seller. I've driven manuals for about the past 24 years without replacing a clutch. Toyota Tacoma was still on the original clutch at 238k miles (V6, 4.10).

Super disappointed, but it happens. What else should I do while the transmission is dropped? I'll be using a local shop, not a dealership.

Long tube headers and mids?
Motor mounts (aftermarket)?
Transmission mount?
Flywheel?
Clutch brand/model?
Shifter and bracket?
Axle half shafts?
All fluids?
Plugs?

Thanks in advance.

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[Cobra Jet]

Since you’re dropping the trans:

• Clutch disc
• Pressure plate
• Throw out bearing
• Pilot bearing
• Clutch slave
• Check trans mount for any issues
• Check driveshaft for any damages as well as center support bearing assembly
• Check trans pinion flange and rear pinion flange for any damages, or leaks at the seals.
  Check condition of flywheel for any abnormal wear or burns
• Check clutch pedal for cracks: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/clutch-brake-pedal-assembly-removal.104338/page-4
• Upgrade shifter assembly if still stock

——

As for what else can be done if doing a Trans R&R:
Long Tube Headers and complete cat-back

1-piece Driveshaft upgrade - but be careful, there’s been MANY threads on here about almost every single aftermarket driveshaft available. Aluminum DS’s are hit or miss with vibrations. Carbon Fiber DS’s are hit or miss with total destruction depending on lower level and grip.

Any suspension upgrades (springs, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, rear IRS bushings and hardware, rear IRS braces, etc etc etc).

I mean, the list can go on and on and on…. Depends on how deep your pockets are if you’re having to pay a shop R&R labor hours, plus parts cost.

 

[silverbullet85]

Depends on how deep your pockets are. I wouldn't put a stock clutch or reuse the flywheel at the very least. I would replace the clutch with a mcleod rst and install a mgw shifter (night and day difference) and throwout bearing, don't see the point to replace the slave unless you have a ton of miles, the tob is in the tranny so might as well replace if miles are above 25k or so. Whatever you decide show us how it goes/went

 

[bnightstar]

This should be a 2nd to 3rd synchro and I guess a shift fork not the clutch but when you are there do the clutch as well McLeod RXT is the recommendation. For the trans you can ether repair it yourself or send to Ben Calimer and get a new to you MT82 that is not going to brake like that. When you put the new trans and Clutch make sure to put short trow shifter as well Barton or MGW are both great options (I should have put one in mine when I had the chance). Also switch your trans fluid to something like Motul DCTF much cheaper than OEM and also follow the same standard. I hope this helps. Sorry that this happen to you but this is the curse on the MT82.

 

[15GTPPinCO]

So, it was verified so far that it's the clutch.

The replacement looks like it's going to be an Exedy Stage 1 and a Barton shifter (mounted to trans). I might also have them put in my long-tube headers and mid pipes. I'll be close to $3k with parts/labor. Should I consider going to the Exedy Stage 2?

I will ask about moving to Motul DCTF. Consensus so far is that the ol' MT-82 is OK. I appreciate the input!

Thanks!

 

[15GTPPinCO]

Not if you are just going to drive it on the street. Clutches have trade offs. Drivability is the downside on a more performance based clutch.

Well, drive it on the street, yes. But, I'm also planning to go with a forced induction install, some time during the winter cold months here in CO. I think that I'd like a Vortech Si at about 8psi in order to get some of the horsepower back that we lose with our altitude (5k-6k ft).

 

[Deleted member 35644]

At 61K and expired warranty, you might want to give the rear main seal a look. It'll probably be seeping by 100K, so buy yourself some time and switch it out now.

 

[15GTPPinCO]

Ok, she is under the knife for a new stage 1 clutch from south bend, stainless 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3 in high flow catted mid pipes with existing dual 3 inch cat back. Steeda motor mounts, new tune with my 2018+ intake manifold with functional IMRCs,, a fresh 8 quarts of Motul with an amsoil filter, a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter.

I’m at roughly a mile above sea level, and missing about 55hp right off the top, vs sea level from what I can guestimate.

What should I add next, before adding boost this winter? I’m thinking that a dyno tune would be the best upgrade, followed by a CJ intake manifold with a dual 65 TB, and then the blower, of course. 6 more months!!

Should I replace the axles, or wait? Will being at altitude when tuned allow for more timing advance without a detonation issue?

There is also the possibility that the MT82 is toasted (Maybe just a broken input shaft). It seems unlikely to me, but what is the preference/cost for an MT82, a "Built" MT82, or some hardier Tremec, like is in the GT350 or the new Mach 1 manuals?

The stink from the toasted clutch is still haunting my 2 car garage, 2 weeks after the "incident". It's unreal, in a bad way.

 

[15GTPPinCO]

A return fuel system for E85.

We don't really have E85 here in the Boulder, CO metropolitan area. 91 is all we can get at the pump, and of course the race track sells everything, but it's kind of far away and it's certainly not cheap. Ok, E85 is kinda cheap.

 

[Red65]

This should be a 2nd to 3rd synchro and I guess a shift fork not the clutch but when you are there do the clutch as well McLeod RXT is the recommendation.

I'd be careful recommending the RXT. The MT82 can't exactly handle how harsh that clutch is. I think even Ben Calimer recommends not using it even in his built trans options.

 

[bnightstar]

I'd be careful recommending the RXT. The MT82 can't exactly handle how harsh that clutch is. I think even Ben Calimer recommends not using it even in his built trans options.

Think I misspeled RST for RXT so hard with this McLeod naming

 

[Red65]

Think I misspeled RST for RXT so hard with this McLeod naming

Ahh, that makes sense.

 

[15GTPPinCO]

I ordered the FMK1026-HD from South Bend Clutch (Stage 1) for anyone following at home.

 

[silverbullet85]

I'd be careful recommending the RXT. The MT82 can't exactly handle how harsh that clutch is. I think even Ben Calimer recommends not using it even in his built trans options.

Makes no sense to put a rst that will slip and fail when he goes forced induction. I would go with the lethal performance lpxhd which is a mcleod rxt with Kevlar material instead of metallic, I think people belive that the mcleods kill mt82s because that is probably the most popular cluch out there due to its availability and price, and it just holds the power. If more people run it then more people are also going to have issues with it. I dont care what clutch you run in the mt82 if you bang gears and clutch kick and power shift and hook 900whp with it it will be on borrowed time. It's part of the game and the reason I picked up a spare mt82 that's in my garage.

 

[15GTPPinCO]

Makes no sense to put a rst that will slip and fail when he goes forced induction. I would go with the lethal performance lpxhd which is a mcleod rxt with Kevlar material instead of metallic, I think people belive that the mcleods kill mt82s because that is probably the most popular cluch out there due to its availability and price, and it just holds the power. If more people run it then more people are also going to have issues with it. I dont care what clutch you run in the mt82 if you bang gears and clutch kick and power shift and hook 900whp with it it will be on borrowed time. It's part of the game and the reason I picked up a spare mt82 that's in my garage.

I don't power shift, but I am ok with replacing the clutch when I add power, if it slips. I will probably replace the MT-82 with either a built one, or an alternative (Tremec Magnum?). I will also probably change my flywheel and driveshaft when I go FI as well. It's not cheap to go fast, reliably. Buy the ticket, take the ride.

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