LMR SVE SP2 Wheels Cracking

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah I’ve swapped wheel sets literally over a hundred times in this car In 4 years of ownership this month, 50 times to track wheels, 50 times back to street wheels. 150 torque each and every time. if you look up the torque specs for a bolt that size, most manuals say 148 ft/lbs of torque. Its the right number.

in all those wheel changes, no broken studs, no cracked wheels, no stuck lug nuts (well almost had one stuck lug one time) nothing coming loose while driving or other issues from too much or too little torque.

Narrow tuner lug nuts or factory sized lug nuts. The stock lug nuts are long gone for better all steel lugs which hold up. Twice I drove off without torqing the wheels but caught it from noise/vibration before I got too far.

using stock PP1 wheels, Project6gr 19x10 wheels, and Apex SM-10 19x11 wheels. Two factory wheel barrels bent from hitting road construction at speed. The rest have been good. Stressed metal will eventually fatigue and give out tho, track wheels (as well as a host of other things like control arms! are a consumable and should be replaced on a schedule)

The first couple of years, some wheel vendor customer service people were still telling people to use the torque settings from the S197 cars, which had narrower studs and required less torque. That was a frustrating period, but they’ve mostly got the clue now it seems.

Sponsored

 

[Bybcous]

A used one i got in the mail was cracked. Could have came from shipping though, but luckily lmr had a replacement in stock

 

[2morrow]

Yeah I’ve swapped wheel sets literally over a hundred times in this car In 4 years of ownership this month, 50 times to track wheels, 50 times back to street wheels. 150 torque each and every time. if you look up the torque specs for a bolt that size, most manuals say 148 ft/lbs of torque. Its the right number.

in all those wheel changes, no broken studs, no cracked wheels, no stuck lug nuts (well almost had one stuck lug one time) nothing coming loose while driving or other issues from too much or too little torque.

...

The first couple of years, some wheel vendor customer service people were still telling people to use the torque settings from the S197 cars, which had narrower studs and required less torque. That was a frustrating period, but they’ve mostly got the clue now it seems.

In the same boat and agree with everything here. It's funny how a lot of people throw out solid info for ignorant and out of date data and user experiences. 150 ft/lbs. every-time for every wheel.

 

[Grintch]

I was talking with a guy from LMR and he said the lug nut torque could definitely be a possibility. 150 is required for factory nuts but stronger aftermarket ones "should not be tightened to those specs." He recommended 110 lb-ft and adjust from there as needed.

"Adjust from there as needed" how? If they fall off, increase the torque?

 

[jbo]

So one thing also to remember, and I have seen it when inspecting wheels. People will put aftermarket wheels on their cars, then just torque them to the 150lbs. Look at the stud and make sure the retaining clip is off if the wheel does not have a recessed area on the mounting pad for it. If you tighten down a wheel to 150lbs and no recessed area then you are going to cause a crack. Not saying this is what happened, but just stating the obvious which sometimes is not so obvious. That area the crack is showing is not a high FEA stress analysis point.

Sponsored