JRZ coilover

[jofivepointoh]

Any reviews on the JRZ coilovers?

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[Berstuck]

Episode of smoking tire where he drives a GT with JRZ coils is all I could find.

 

[boardkat]

fucking. awesome.

 

[hulk_smash]

If you can afford it, JRZ is the best.

I have it on my M3 race car. I cant put into words but it's the best mod I have ever done.

I'd do it on the mustang but for baby on the way so need to save money. :(

 

[tyshenry]

I haven't done a review yet because I'm still waiting to actually get out and autox and track the car since I installed my set of RS1's. Early impressions are fantastic though. Really stiff for the street though! I'm running 600/1400 rates and the struts and shocks have been revalved. Using Vorshlag camber/caster plates also.

 

[AJ ROJO]

Episode of smoking tire where he drives a GT with JRZ coils is all I could find.

That's Kakon's old car. He is a member on here and has an Instagram too. If you have questions about his set up, just hit him up. He has always been willing to help people out. I'm saving a few $$ now to go JRZ RS Touring Pros. Thanks to seeing his car and after asking some questions.

 

[MyFirst5.0]

damn for 5k they better be awesome

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

Ridetech. I love them!!

 

[AJ ROJO]

damn for 5k they better be awesome

You get what you pay for, especially with coilovers

 

[CrazedAntelope]

I have the RS Pros on my Ecoboost. These are my first set of coilovers and I track my car from time to time.

Marketing

• Every click is indeed noticeable
• The damper is monotube so the piston shaft is very girthy. Supposidly this helps with quick shock reation and dealing with small amplitude displacements.
• Digressive blow off I can feel (I think)

Install:

• Camber is adjustable from 0, 1, and 2 degrees due to a JRZ proprietary shim-washer that acts as a camber bolt where the strut meets the front knucle.
• Camber is therefore maxed at 2 degrees as far as I know
• Tophat is caster adjustable only as far as I know. But you can run 8+ degrees without modifying the tower.
• External canisters don't come with any mounting hardware... you have to design it yourself. I bet you can put the canisters in the gap between the fender and the front of the car. On the rear I mounted a bracket to a plastic black box under the car in between the exhaust.

Preface:
Unfortunately I'm not the most experienced dude when it comes to suspensions. I don't have much hands-on experience with many platforms or setups but I am a mechanical engineer so hopefully what I learned in vibrations class will help me out here.

Background:
Originally the car was a PP. I then "upgraded" to Koni yellow shocks and steeda ultralite springs. I had many problems with the springs and the ride was so harsh and stiff that my back would hurt on my daily commute. After throwing some more $$ at that shitty setup, attempting to fix poorly engineered parts, I decided to jump ship and get some top shelf parts. If these JRZ's didn't work out, I swore to myself that I'd return the mustang to stock and never modify a car ever again. Glad to say I have found great success with the JRZ's.

Impressions:
These coilovers are very capable and have an absolutely wonderful range of adjustment. Running 5-6 compression feels much like OEM PP shocks. running 7-8 is what I imagine a porsche 911 GTS would feel like. Running 11 sort of gave me the stiffness feeling of the Koni's (which were really damn stiff). And there is much more to go. Of course rebound is independantly adjustable as well so there is much range to play with. Be careful not to set rebound too stiff w.r.t. compression or you will be running into the "jacking down" scenario.

I have a quite low stance, but I have frankly amazing ride quality on the freeway. My swaybars are set too stiff to have such good ride quality at low speed, but still a ton better than those Koni's. Overall, my back doesn't hurt anymore and the car feels very composed and confidence inspiring at any speed. The ride is so dialed in that I have to watch my speedo because these coilovers mask speed so well. You can feel the suspension working underneath you without upsetting the body. So confidence inspiring I can power through expansion joints while turning in the rain - something I'm sure I would have never been able to do before. Compared to something liek a Mercedes CL 550, the ride is a little busy due to my spring rates or swaybars but the shocks absolutely filter out all the harshness. You can feel what's going on under you but none of the sharp impacts or harshness gets transferred to you.

I've run one autocross since the install and the car definitely would have felt better if I had gone stiffer. Still, I was able to power out of corners nicely without losing traction. The setup provides me a great PP+ feeling and a desirable ride quality which is what I was looking for.

I'm sure the sky is the limit with these coils if you choose to go with very stiff springs, but I can't comment on that.

Current suspension setup:

• JRZ RS Pro front coilover
• JRZ RS pro rear shocks (not true coilover)
• Front: spring 250lb/in eibach coilover spring
• Rear Spring: BC Racing rear spring + perch (782in/lb spring)
• Eibach swaybars front and rear (set to medium stiff)
• BMR swaybar end links (I had to flip one end of the fronts around due to interference with the bottom of the coilover. I would not have been able to do this with stock endlinks)
• BMR CB005 cradle lockout
• Steeda K-Member Brace

Future plans setup:

• Swap rear springs for BMR SP085 rated at 980 in/lb
• Make rear swaybar full soft
• Possible lower front spring rates to 225 lb/in (not that it's too harsh now- want to move towards "flat ride" condition w.r.t. font/rear ride frequencies)

Edit: I forgot to mention the coilovers are very quiet. There is a slight squeak from the rear under large amplitude compressions but it's not a deal breaker. A mild level of audio on the radio or an exhaust and I doubt you'd be able to hear it.

Let me know if there is anything else I can help answer. I am still a noob and still learning

 

[rr12267]

How did you mount the remotes in the rear?

 

[boardkat]

drilled holes on the sides of the charcoal canister and zip tied em.

 

[CrazedAntelope]

How did you mount the remotes in the rear?

There is some black plastic box under the spare tire area on the underside of the car. I drilled some holes into the side of the box, and mounted some 1" aluminum angle. I zip ties the reservoirs to the aluminum angle.

Kind of messy, but I can slide under the car and adjust compression without lifting the car.

 

[jdub.csu]

Best investment ever. I had them on my subaru and now on the mustang even with 600 up front it doesn't ride that bad all things considered

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