JL AUDIO STEALTHBOX INSTALL HELP

Discussion in 'Infotainment and Electronics (Nav, Audio, Video, Bluetooth)' started by blakedanatural, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. blakedanatural

    blakedanatural Well-Known Member

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    Hello All,
    I have a 2015 GT Premium with the 9 speaker Shaker NON sub woofer system. I changed my fronts and rear factory speakers to JBLs and added a bazooka powered 8inch sub It sounds ok but not the thump I like. I did that install myself thanks to the guys on this forum.
    Well I just ordered Audio Control L2i ,JL Audio Jx 500/1d mono amplifier and the Jl Audio stealthbox 12inch sub for Ford Mustang 2015. Everything should arrive by this Thursday oh yea and the Amp wiring kit.
    I think I can do this install but would love to hear from anyone that has this setup,pictures of where the components was install,any info about the audio control LOC and the actual wiring of these 3 components Any help will be greatly appreciated because I want to install on Friday.

    Thank you
     
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  2. mumbles

    mumbles Well-Known Member

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    Unless you absolutely want to use the Bass Restoration feature of the LC2i, you can return that because the Jx 500 has speaker level inputs.

    The best place to grab a speaker level input is from the harness going to the stock amp in the drivers footwell. The easiest place is from the right rear speaker... use a wire tap to avoid cutting and splicing.

    Here's a link to a thread by Fenix where he talks about installing his Stealthbox;
    http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81507&highlight=stealthbox
     
  3. OP
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    blakedanatural

    blakedanatural Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much for your help Mumbles
     
  4. mikes2017gt

    mikes2017gt Well-Known Member

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    I attached a few pics so you get an idea of what I'm talking about/what I did. I have an entire thread on here about my Stealthbox install, but my Photobucket account is toast, so the pics don't show here anymore. :mad:

    Just adding my thoughts to Mumbles' input: There really isn't a "best" place to grab a speaker-level signal. Grabbing it right at the output of the amp is electrically identical to grabbing it at each speaker, or like most of us including me, did, grabbing it from the wiring harness the runs under the rear deck. If you want a pre-out level signal, you have to modify the as-built data and grab the signal before the amp's inputs (way more complicated).

    I bought an inexpensive, but very well-reviewed LOC off Amazon and mounted it right next to the right rear speaker. Used wire taps to tap into the correct speaker-level wires (my JL Audio amp has speaker-level inputs).

    The Stealthbox is a bit of a PITA to install. Don't follow the instructions which tell you to mount the bolts to the body of the car first, then "easily slide the Stealthbox over the bolts". It will never happen. I tried for hours. It did not occur to me to put the box in place and screw the bolts in through the INSIDE of the Stealthbox. Done in 30 mins after that. A true "facepalm moment."

    Also, the box is attached to the studs (headless bolts) that attach to the body with nuts and large fender washers, which not only help secure the box, they help SEAL the box b/c the mounting holes are slightly larger than the bolts. My Stealthbox had a lot of extra fiberglass "lumps" around those mounting holes which kept the washers from seating flat and sealing the box. Do NOT just torque down on the nut, expecting to crush the lumps b/c you will crack the box. You must file down the lumps to make a flat surface for the washers. I was fortunate enough to have a Dremel, but you could use a hand file...will just take longer.

    All that said, it sounds FANTASTIC and looks just as good. Takes up zero trunk space, doesn't slide around, etc. I get compliments on it all the time. LMK if you have any questions. IMG_20170318_221016694%20Large_zpsazdtgc3l.JPG IMG_20170318_175557549%20Large_zpsst2xhjmf.JPG IMG_20170318_183041896%20Large_zps7fkr8ued.JPG IMG_20170319_150059465_HDR%20Large_zpsn77ehjtv.JPG IMG_20170319_132216851%20Large_zpsrqqw2b4r.JPG IMG_20170319_132335382_HDR%20Large_zpsmyyzmbvr.JPG
     
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  5. mikes2017gt

    mikes2017gt Well-Known Member

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    Pics of my amp ground that some folks said "was no good and won't work." It works perfectly. Been doing car audio for years. For a single Class D amp like 99% of today's sub amps are, this ground is just fine. Be sure to sand down to bare metal and clean it with solvent like Acetone or 90% rubbing alcohol. This is the spare tire hold-down, BTW. Or in my case, the hold down for the compressor/tire inflator kit. IMG_20170317_162936915%20Large_zpsd0wobbyk.JPG IMG_20170317_202220683%20Large_zpszana4gwt.JPG
     
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  6. mumbles

    mumbles Well-Known Member

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    Should have been more specific... It is my understanding that the bass roll off people always talk about is only associated with the rear channels, so when I said "best", my intent was avoiding the bass roll off... hope that makes sense.
     
  7. mikes2017gt

    mikes2017gt Well-Known Member

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    Yup, makes sense to me. :) I guess I've been lucky; I don't notice any bass rolloff at all with my sub, getting the signal off the right rear speaker. I have the amp set for a speaker-level input and I have the gain at about 40% or so. I find it to be a happy medium b/t songs that are "too bass heavy" and old rock which was recorded "with not enough bass to begin with."
     
  8. OP
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    blakedanatural

    blakedanatural Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys for the info and insight Mike the pictures are nice thank you
     
  9. mumbles

    mumbles Well-Known Member

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    You sound like me, wishing some of the old rock songs had a bit more punch!
     
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