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Jacking up the rear of the Car (Floor Jack)

CB

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When I jack my car up from the side I use a piece of 2x4 placed on the inside of the body weld joint. Just where those jacking rails are placed.
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davekro

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When I jack my car up from the side I use a piece of 2x4 placed on the inside of the body weld joint. Just where those jacking rails are placed.
Just out of curiosity, how long of a 2x4 do you use? Does it just stay up against the inner side of the sheet metal sticking down or can it slip inward away from sheet metal?
 

Sheenapple

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I do 2 jacks on the LCA's. jacks come in under the exhaust.

or you can do 2 jacks in front of the wheels at the pinch points, or on the IRS subframe bolt.

all utilizing a Puck.
 

CB

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I just use a piece 10" to 24" whatever is on top of the pile is what I grab first. Yes it goes up against the weld joint on the inside. Never had any slip yet. I have 6" blocks of wood that I put under the tires. Then I can get enough on top of the jack to get the car up to where my jack stands work
 

Mustang_Eh

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Sorry for reviving, but I'm new to this and after reading multiple threads I have so much conflicting and confusing information that I would like you guys to comment on what my understanding of jacking points is.

Purpose:

I go to the track at least 3 times a month and want to spare my 20" rubber by replacing it with my stock 17" wheels. I need to be able to quickly jack up the car and swap the wheels - that's it.

What I've tried:

1) My friends lifted the car total of 2 times by the diff. Nothing bad happened. However, reading all this conflicting information I think I'd like to abstain from this method because the parking lot surface is uneven, possible damage due to not paying attention, etc.

2) I used a smaller jack on pinch weld points described in the manual (or so it appears to me). However, I had a bad experience (due to inexperience) with this method when the jack slipped off the pinchweld and the car landed on the jack where the plastic rocker panel is next to the pinch weld. I do not believe I damaged anything other than having a stripped pinch weld and an indent in the rocker panel plastic.

Question - Are the pinch weld points circled below meant to be used as jacking points? I want to buy myself a regular jack and lift the car by the pinch welds as per the manual. I will buy something like this (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/floor-jack-adapter)

Pic for reference:

http://imgur.com/a/8IyXu
 

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Jay-rod427

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Sorry for reviving, but I'm new to this and after reading multiple threads I have so much conflicting and confusing information that I would like you guys to comment on what my understanding of jacking points is.

Purpose:

I go to the track at least 3 times a month and want to spare my 20" rubber by replacing it with my stock 17" wheels. I need to be able to quickly jack up the car and swap the wheels - that's it.

What I've tried:

1) My friends lifted the car total of 2 times by the diff. Nothing bad happened. However, reading all this conflicting information I think I'd like to abstain from this method because the parking lot surface is uneven, possible damage due to not paying attention, etc.

2) I used a smaller jack on pinch weld points described in the manual (or so it appears to me). However, I had a bad experience (due to inexperience) with this method when the jack slipped off the pinchweld and the car landed on the jack where the plastic rocker panel is next to the pinch weld. I do not believe I damaged anything other than having a stripped pinch weld and an indent in the rocker panel plastic.

Question - Are the pinch weld points circled below meant to be used as jacking points? I want to buy myself a regular jack and lift the car by the pinch welds as per the manual. I will buy something like this (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/floor-jack-adapter)

Pic for reference:

http://imgur.com/a/8IyXu
Do yourself a favor and buy some jacking rails. Problem solved.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-ultra-lite-chassis-jacking-rails-15-16-all-555-5205/

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1564
 

Mustang_Eh

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Do yourself a favor and buy some jacking rails. Problem solved.
Unfortunately that does not answer my question. I can't lift the car with jack stands. Again, I need to know if I can use the trolley jack on the pinch weld locations circled in the picture that I linked to.
 

JohnBoyNC

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I bought a set of the "slotted hockey pucks" and use those with two jacks lifting at the pinch weld jacking spots. It's a tad time consuming as I go back and forth to the two jacks after 2 or 3 pumps on each side as I dont want to twist the frame badly. But that's only when I want to jack the entire rear. I just use one side if only needing one side jacked.

Open to comments......
 

Jay-rod427

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The jacking rail is for the jack, or jack stands... To quickly change tires jack it up anywhere along the jacking rail and it will lift that whole side of the car, change those two, and repeat on the other side. Instead of the silly unsafe jacking points you have several feet to put a jack. What does can't lift the car with jack stands have to do with anything?
 

Mako_254

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Consider Harbor freight's steel floor jack cross beam item 60762 which sells for 40 bucks. Note- it may only fit some of their Pittsburgh floor jacks.
 

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USPSALIMITED

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Unfortunately that does not answer my question. I can't lift the car with jack stands. Again, I need to know if I can use the trolley jack on the pinch weld locations circled in the picture that I linked to.
If you go to Steeda's website & look at their jacking rails I think your issue and any confusion will be nicely resolved. You do need some sort of a low profile jack to put under the rail but they are cheap enough and available at about any place that sells auto parts.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-ultra-lite-chassis-jacking-rails-15-16-all-555-5205/
 

flame777

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Hopefully this makes it to the right thread. I have been reading several different ones.
2016 GT PP. The question has been if I lift where ford recommends, which the 4 weld point, where do I put my jacks stands?
I lifted at the front left weld point. Placed my rear jack stands at the rear weld point and placed my front jack stand at the 2 bolts where the sub frame and K frame connect. The frame of the car is stiff enough to lift the whole side of the car from that one point. Lower your jack, move to right side and rinse and repeat. I am putting on a cat back system so I wanted the car plenty high. I then lifted on the front sub frame to get a few more clicks on the stands. 4 ton long jack, absolutely no damage to car. Hope this helps.
 

AmericanLegend

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chrissn95

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It might not be a jacking point per ser but...if you have a 400lbs-ft of torque engine, multiply that by 1st gear on the MT-82 by the gear ratio on de diff that be 400 x 3.66 x 3.73 we are talking of 5460 lb of torsion in the diff, bushings etc... I would say it can safely carry the rear of a 3800lb car.
 

SINBUSTER007

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Unfortunately that does not answer my question. I can't lift the car with jack stands. Again, I need to know if I can use the trolley jack on the pinch weld locations circled in the picture that I linked to.
i think you need to understand that the pinch welds can lift the car at the right spots designated in the manual. if you are looking long term i would say no...the constant point load on that particular area will weaken the metal to the point of bending and failing...if its a up/down thing then you are ok but for long term you need to look into the jacking rails from steeda or equivalent.
if you are just looking to jack up to change a tire then you should be fine.
to do ANY work under the car NO WAY! you are asking for issues..
if you do not need to remove the tires then take the advise of others here and use the DIY wooden ramps.
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